Hydrangea paniculata 'Tardiva'

©2007 S.R. Calef

This is an old-fashioned beauty that lost popularity for a while, but came back on the home landscape scene with a vengeance. Back in the mid 80's, conversing with an experienced plantsman about 'Tardiva', I remember his delight at seeing its reintroduction. More familiar with the ever-popular H. paniculata 'Grandiflora', I immediately went seeking more information on this plant. The more I learned, the more enthusiastic I became. Hardy to Zone 4, fairly free of insect and disease problems and a fine addition to the mixed shrub border. Finally, just 4 years ago, I added 'Tardiva' to my plant palette. While 'Tardiva' can be trained to tree form, it more effective as a multi-stemmed specimen.

©2007 S.R. Calef

We've been concentrating on late-season color, of late, and this hydrangea does not disappoint.
Listed in most references as blooming in September, mine usually starts in mid to late August and continues through September. Like the other paniculata hybrids, the blend of sterile (most showy) and fertile flowers are borne in clusters, or panicles. Most are of a rounded, conical shape. 'Tardiva' bears just enough of the showy sterile flowers, to make the 8" upright conical heads really stand out in the fall garden. And like others of its species, it starts out a snowy white, gradually changing to pink, deep raspberry and finally to rust, with the onset of cooler weather.

©2007 S.R. Calef

Is this hydrangea right for your fall garden? Let's see. Full sun to partial shade, Zone 4 hardiness, not many pests, organically-enriched soil (use your compost) that is well-drained, moderate moisture and a little annual pruning. Not that demanding!

'Tardiva' blooms on new wood, which means it can be pruned in late winter or early spring, unlike the H. macrophylla (mop-head) species. It probably looks best maintained at 6-8 feet high by 6 feet wide. 'Tardiva', left on its own, may reach 10-12' (I've seen an old, neglected 15' specimen). Just before the snow flies, I trim back spindly outer growth and old flower heads. This gets the plant through winter with a minimum of breakage. In early spring, I prune more severely, above dormant buds, creating a pleasing, somewhat rounded outline. An early spring feeding of organic fertilizer helps to push out strong, new growth and flowering wood.

Like most late bloomers, 'Tardiva' attracts a few butterflies, along with lots of bees and other pollinators. Nectar sources dwindle with the approach of fall. On this, and my other late summer/fall beauties, I have every sort of pollinator you can imagine. Bumblebees and honey bees are my best "customers." I am delighted to see all this activity - it's the sign of a healthy, well-planned landscape. I am likewise delighted to observe a steadily increasing honey bee presence, over the course of this season. I see five clustered together on a sunflower head, and feel hopeful that predictions of their survival may not be quite as dire as anticipated.

My relatively young landscape was designed to attract wildlife... this was priority one. Priority two, which just naturally follows, was to include ornamental plants. Food, nesting sites, winter protection and the beauty derived from plants and wildlife - what could be better?

But, I digress. Get thee to a local garden center and discover the beauty of Hydrangea paniculata 'Tardiva' for yourself!

©Deb Lambert 2007

Above the Waters of Ipswich Bay

© 2007 S.R. Calef

At the end of a late summer day
Above the waters of Ipswich Bay
You release the tension that you hold
The horizon turns to burnished gold

For how small are we, on planet earth
How we do struggle to prove our worth
Craning to see this small bit of sky
Awestruck by the beauty, you and I

This moment, 'twixt the day and twilight
Ever so briefly, we drink in the sight
When all should pause to pay respect
Perhaps it's more than we can expect

Midst the hustle and bustle of life
Midst the struggles and the daily strife
Take time at the edge of Ipswich Bay
Celebrate the close of another day

©Deb Lambert 2007

"Hardy" Mums

©2007 S.R. Calef

They decorate our front steps, fill our window boxes and brighten our late summer/early fall gardens. When we think of redecorating the front gardens and porch for fall, we inevitably picture mums, decorative cabbage or kale, ornamental grasses, cornstalks, pumpkins and maybe a scarecrow or two. Yes, fall mums are the essence of fresh, autumn color.

©2007 S.R. Calef

"Mum," of course is an abbreviation of Chrysanthemum (family: Compositae - includes daisies, asters, etc.). Botanically speaking, Chrysanthemum morifolium has had its share of issues with plant nomenclature. For a brief time in the late 80's and into the 90's it underwent a widely accepted name change, to Dendranthema. It now prefers (or at least the learned botanists in charge prefer it) to be called Chrysanthemum, once again.

The original mums were introduced to North America from China, Japan and Europe in the mid-late 1700's. Flower types vary widely - button, pompom, daisy, anemone, spider and spoon-petaled, to name a few. They cover the full range of single, semi-double and double-flowered. Originally taller and more graceful, mums have undergone some serious makeovers from modern plant breeders. A compact, mounding habit has become the accepted, if not preferred, form of modern gardeners.

©2007 S.R. Calef

Less and less, do we find the adjective hardy attached to Chrysanthemums. More often, they're referred to as garden mums. Here, in Zone 5, we have some limited success in overwintering mums. Much of it is trial and error and can be sporadically successful, at best. In the past, I have been successful at various times, with some of the "Minn" series ('Minnruby' etc.) and a couple of pink and lavender specimens - of forgotten lineage. Typically, they'd survive for a year or three, then succumb to a particularly harsh New England winter. Not unusual.

The word is, that certain breeders are working to develop hybrids with increased winter hardiness. That said, a few of the older varieties are actually quite hardy. I'll include in this group a tallish, graceful, lavender, spoon-petaled, spidery-looking affair, thriving in my mother's garden for lo, these many years. Old favorite 'Clara Curtis' comes to mind, along with a variety called 'Mei-Kyo', as being quite winter hardy.

Now, just because breeders try to lower our expectations, by losing the adjective hardy, doesn't mean that we frugal Yankees are going to embrace the "politically-correct" phrase, garden mums, without a struggle. Admitting defeat, by classifying mums as somewhere between a rugged annual and half-hardy perennial... not for us! Ayah, even Zone 4 (4 is really pushing the proverbial envelope!) Yankees are up to the task of attempting the near-impossible.

1.) Chrysanthemums need full sun, moderate moisture and well-drained soil. 2.) Plant mums in a sheltered, protected area. Many yards have at least one micro-climate, with less wind and warmer soil temperatures. Choose such an area. 3.) Plant as early in the fall as possible. A longer rooting-in period results in a stronger plant. Mums in decorative pots should be planted in the ground, immediately after you've enjoyed the blooms. 4.) Remove the pot, before planting, even if it's made of compressed fiber - it will not break down in time, to allow for root development. 5.) With your fingers or a hand cultivator, loosen all the roots, so they'll begin the rooting-in process. As with containerized nursery stock, roots will often continue growing in a circular pattern, never expanding into surrounding soil.

©2007 S.R. Calef

Once they're planted in the ideal spot, it's time to speak of wintering-over. Well, actually, you've done most of the work. Chrysanthemums were always cut back to about 4-6", just before winter. No more! The newer school of thought, and one I've found to be true, is that we leave them alone. One mum grower, in particular, found that leaving the dried stems and foliage intact, created a framework that attracted and held onto falling autumn leaves. Thus, the sensitive crown was afforded extra protection. Guess what? This works smashingly well for most perennials. In fact, just before the ground freezes, add salt marsh hay atop the leaves, for a bit more protection.

Come spring, remove the protective leaf and hay layers and cut back your chrysanthemums to about 4 inches. Scratch a little granular, organic fertilizer around them and water as needed (usually 2-3 times a week). Once they attain a height of 12-18", cut them back by half, always above a leaf node. Repeat this procedure every two weeks, cutting them back by one-half, until mid to late July (this works for fall aster and sedum, as well). Apply water-soluble fertilizer each time you prune. Your plants will be spectacular at flowering time - low, full, with top-size blooms. And just think of all the cuttings you can root. Most mums will also sucker out from the the roots, quite freely. Any of these, with intact roots, can be cut from the mother plant and moved elsewhere.

So, get out there and look around. Notice how folks are decorating with mums, check out the inventory at your local garden center. Mums are are available in August, sometimes as early as late July. Choose specimens with a little color and lots of unopened buds, ready to unfurl in your gardens. At worst, you'll have a lovely fall landscape. At best, you'll have several more years to enjoy these garden mums. We'll stop calling them hardy, but that won't stop us from pursuing longevity in our backyard Chrysanthemums!

©Deb Lambert 2007

Chasing moonbeams at shutterbug on knights pond...

Beware the Bald Faced Hornet!

©2006 S.R. Calef/Jill Silva

In the same family as wasps and yellowjackets, bald faced hornets are swift and able to sting repeatedly, as they possess a non-barbed stinger. They are most aggressive near the nest site, especially if disturbed. Personal experience reminds me that their idea of territory lines can differ widely from humans. We may stay away from their nest, but they give chase until their real estate extends the length of the house.

©2006 S.R. Calef/Jill Silva

This particular nest was located within the sheltering branches of a pine... for sale at a local nursery (Corliss Bros. Garden Center in Ipswich, MA). That's one bonus-buy I could resist.

©2006 S.R. Calef/Jill Silva

As we observe the nest more closely, it occurs to me that mention should be made to remain watchful in your own backyard. Many hornets and wasps, as they come to the end of their yearly cycle (especially those that will die off by wintertime) become noticeably more aggressive and develop a taste for protein, rather than flower nectar. I assume "protein" refers to insects and outdoor cookouts with hamburgers (which is why yellow jackets and hornets always come to picnics). Thinking they may regard me as a large chunk of protein, I am exceedingly careful around these winged avengers, come fall.

©2006 S.R. Calef/Jill Silva

Before workers or customers might be stung, controls were employed and the massive papery nest removed. For a great close-up and macabre dining habits, visit Bald Faced Hornet. For an even bigger close-up and more factual details than you probably wanted to know, I recommend this second Bald Faced Hornet site, at Muenster.org. Warning: these sites are not for the faint of heart.

©2006 S.R. Calef/Jill Silva

Many of the cells, located in multiple chambers, are filled with larvae, which is fed nectar and protein. After pupation, males mate with the females and then die. The fertilized females hibernate over the winter and establish their own colonies in spring.

A serious reminder to all gardeners... Please be careful as you tend your gardens, this fall. Be especially cautious if anyone in the family has a bee allergy. My family is currently dealing with this problem. Even bumblebees can be aggressive! Watch for signs of hornet and wasp activity - there may be a nest nearby! Just one more point (excuse the expression) - Bald Faced Hornets have developed a penchant for facial attacks on humans. Ouch! By the way, if the above destruction of the nest disturbed you, these hornets (actually not true hornets, but wasp relatives) are only marginal pollinators, at best. Be careful out there.

©Deb Lambert 2007

Note: Special thanks to Jill Silva for "courage under fire" in obtaining these great shots, especially the photos taken before these Bald Faced Hornets met their untimely end.

A much nicer crowd over at shutterbug on knights pond...

Marguerite, in All Her Glory...

©2006 S.R. Calef

The Marguerite Daisy, or Argyanthemum frutescens (previously, Chrysanthemum frutescens), is an annual with perennial interest amongst gardeners in the know. Equally at home in the flower bed, window box or pot, Marguerite continues to delight the grower with season-long color. While the handsome specimen above, is quite likely the 'Butterfly' hybrid, you'll find a range of colors and forms from which to choose.

Molimba® Mini White is like a compact, miniature daisy. The yellow-centered, sparkling white blooms are borne above deep green, fern-like foliage. It matures at 10-14" and blossoms right through to killing frost, with little need for deadheading. It's ideal for containers.

Who doesn't like daisies, with their beautiful simplicity? If you prefer something a little fancier in an annual, Molimba® First Blush produces an abundance of double, palest pink pom-poms. This is another compact beauty, at 12-14" high, for edging or containers.

For a compact single white, choose Molimba® Helio White, at 16-20" tall, eminently suitable for any of the above uses. This one embodies that crisply defined daisy we've come to admire.

Now, some Marguerites, like the sunny yellow 'Butterfly' and the impressive white 'Vanilla Butterfly'®, are of a taller, more open habit than the Molimba® series. At 18-36 " high, these larger scale specimens are well-suited for the second or third tier of the flower border, or for large pots and containers... think whiskey half-barrels, sturdy cedar planters or huge pottery vessels.

While deadheading (removal of spent flowers) is not crucial to the reblooming of compact varieties, it does present a cleaner appearance and hastens the formation of new buds. Marguerite thrives best in full sun, in well drained, moderately moist, fertile soil. In containers, feed with a liquid fish/seaweed-based fertilizer every 7-10 days - in flower borders, every two weeks is sufficient.

My favorite way to display Marguerite, in all her glory? In a weathered gray cedar planter... 'Butterfly' Marguerite, combined with pale pink geraniums (Pelargoniums), 'Victoria' annual blue salvia - all surrounded by deep blue and pure white lobelia, spilling from the edge. Next season, choose Marguerite. She'll be with you from planting time to hard frost, sharing her glorious daisies and ferny foliage!

©Deb Lambert 2007

For more details on these and other plants, go to Proven Winners. Type "Marguerite" into the Search Box and enjoy the varieties.

What's crawling around over at shutterbug on knights pond?

Pent-up Pentas

©2007 S.R. Calef

Pentas lanceolata (also, Pentas carnea). Commonly, Penta,
Egyptian star flower, star flower, Egyptian star cluster, star clusters.
As you may have surmised, Pentas originated in Africa. Quite heat and
drought tolerant, it's not surprising to find that Penta thrives in our
Southeast and Southwest, as well as in Hawaii. These plants, grown as
perennials in such warm climes (USDA Zones 9a to 11),
develop a woody base.
Velvety, evergreen foliage accounts for their shrub-like appearance.
Here in the Northeast, we treat this plant as an annual or tender perennial,
wintering it indoors. Thus, "pent-up," as in container culture.
Grown in a pot, Penta is more easily retrieved, come fall.

©2007 S.R. Calef

Here we find a potted Penta in full bloom, providing a summer's worth
of color, on a seaside deck in New England. Colors range from red, pink
and white to lavender, blue, violet and shades in-between. We can expect
spring-fall color, while warm-climate gardeners will enjoy year 'round
flower production. Penta prefers full sun, but fares well with as little
as 4 hours of direct afternoon sun. Heights range from 6" to 3',
with newer specimens hybridized for more compact form, eliminating
the objectionable leggy, top-heavy characteristics of older varieties.

©2007 S.R. Calef

Wait - Penta gets even more spectacular! These beautiful,
nectar-rich booms attract hummingbirds and butterflies... making
this a must-have for for bird and butterfly gardens.
Other pertinent facts: Penta prefers a slightly acidic (pH of 6.2-6.5),
well-drained soil. Propagation is by seed or softwood cuttings.
Do not over-water; however, try not to let them wilt.
Apply liquid feed every 10-14 days.
Generally, Penta is rated as easy to grow and relatively free of problems.
Although, one Oklahoma gardener grows red Pentas,
just to attract the Tersa Sphinx moths. They reward this kindness
by defoliating her plant each year.
Ah, the things we backyard naturalists do,
to bring nature just a little closer!

©Deb Lambert 2007

Visit the Maine coast at shutterbug on knights pond...

The Genus Hibiscus

©2007 S.R. Calef

Hibiscus syriacus, or Rose-of-Sharon (sometimes, Shrub Althea)
is prized for its long blooming season, lasting from July into September.  

Flowers are single, double or semi-double and colors range
from deep red, to pink, lavender, blue and white.

©2007 S.R. Calef

'Aphrodite' is a single, rosy-pink that graces my gardens, as well.
Naturally growing about ten feet high, by eight feet wide,
Rose-of-Sharon is ideal as a small, ornamental tree.
It is also at home in the large, mixed shrub border.
Easily pruned, it is commonly maintained at a smaller size,
even lending itself to a hedge formation.

©2007 S.R. Calef

There are several blue or lavender-blue varieties, including 'Bluebird',
'Blue Satin' and 'Coelestis'. I'm sure if this isn't 'Bluebird',
I will hear from those "in the know." In which case,
I will print a correction - fastidious garden journalist that I am.

If you guessed that this flashy member of the genus Hibiscus
is a tropical "cousin," you're right! Hibiscus Rosa-sinensis,
known as Hawaiian or Chinese Hibiscus, is grown as a shrub
or small tree in tropical climes. Modern hybridizing explains
the improved color and smaller sizes currently available.
These are ideal for indoor/outdoor pot culture... often grown on
patios, porches and balconies during the summer and brought back
inside to greenhouses, plant rooms and bay windows for the winter season.
With proper care, these tender specimens will bloom year 'round.
Look for them in a rainbow of colors, from riotous to subdued.

Malvaceae is the family to which all Hibiscus belong and includes the mallows as well. From the light pink, 2" blooms of the Hollyhock Mallow (Malva alcea), to the dinner plate sized single flowers of Hibiscus moscheutos (sometimes H. palustris) or Hibiscus coccineus, there is much to celebrate with the hybridized versions of swamp rose mallow. Red, pink and white predominate, with many blooms sporting deeper throat coloration.

H. Moscheutos has large, toothed, heart-shaped foliage, while the leaves of H. coccinea sport narrow, pointed lobes. In both species, heights of 4-8 feet are common, making these outstanding, back-of-the-border perennials with a nice long summer blooming season. If space permits, locate several in the front yard, and reap the compliments!

Now, if Malva alcea (Hollyhock Mallow, above) seemed somehow familiar, you may have been thinking of the old-fashioned garden Hollyhock. While not in the Hibiscus genus, it is in the Malvaceae family and is properly referred to as Alcea rosea.

While Grandma's hollyhocks may have reached 12 feet tall, newer hybrids are usually from 3-8 feet high. You'll find single, double and frilled blossoms, available in colors ranging from almost black and deep red to pink, salmon, yellow and white. Leave these biennials (each plant lives for two years, flowering and producing seed the second year) undisturbed, for continuous blooming, year after year.

While you're hiking the New England fields and woodlands, you may come across other members of this Malvaceae family. One particular creeping specimen is known as one of the Cheeses, or common mallow. Malva neglecta has tiny rose-lavender or white flowers, with rounded leaves. At one point, I became so enamored of this little garden volunteer, I welcomed it in, transplanting one from a waste area - unfortunately, it proceeded to die. (What green thumb?) Why "cheeses?" They're named for the flat, round fruits they produce.

Today seemed a fine time to revisit the whole botanical Latin issue, especially with such a far-flung family as Malvaceae. If you recall, last month on the Shutterbug blog, I threatened to delve more deeply into the topic. Malva certainly highlights the necessity of our present system of plant classification. Choose the 7/24/07 "Pelargoniums and Botanical History" posting at shutterbug on knights pond, for a refresher.

©Deb Lambert 2007

Royalty on shutterbug on knights pond...

Brugmansia Revisited

©2007 S.R. Calef

Angels Trumpets
For more information on these deadly beauties,
revisit the Tuesday posting (8/7/07).

©2007 S.R. Calef

Notice the delicate leaf variegations on these two specimens.

Remember to plant and/or position containerized specimens with care, since all portions of Angels Trumpets are poisonous. Keep them well away from children and pets. And for more photos of both Brugmansia (tender perennial) and its close relative Datura (annual), as well as complete care and propagation techniques, click on Daturas, Angels Trumpets from Cornwall. (Remember, this site is from Cornwall, England, with a milder climate than ours - we must winter Brugmansia indoors, in New England.) Next, we have Hummingbird Farm. This is a good site for geraniums, clematis (A-Z care), perennials and herbs... lots of useful tips - have fun! Check this site for very practical Brugmansia info, including year 'round care and wintering - these folks should know about wintering-over, since they're located in Turner, Maine...

©Deb Lambert 2007

Take the final ride at shutterbug on knights pond...

Haiku at Sunset

©2007 S.R. Calef

Fiery finale

As crimson extravagance

Floods the evening sky

©Deb Lambert 2007

Catch another ride at shutterbug on knights pond...

Pink Clouds and Daydreams

summer is
honeybees
lightning bugs
evening crickets
and pine trees
rough roads
and green fields
pink clouds
blue skies
and daydreams

©Deb Lambert 2007

Photos courtesy Free Images

Hurry! You'll miss your flight at shutterbug on knights pond!

Canyon Echoes

©2007 Dan Kunkel, Photographer *

Long ago, earth yawned

In layered burnt sienna

Yielding to nature

©Deb Lambert 2007

*Photo courtesy of Free Large Photos

Up, up and away to shutterbug on knights pond!

Brugmansia

©2007 S.R. Calef

Angel's Trumpet can refer to Brugmansia or to Datura (also Devil's Trumpet or Jimson weed), a closely related genus. Both are in the family Solanaceae, which includes deadly nightshade, tobacco, garden pepper, chile pepper, eggplant, potato, tomato and petunia. Most of this family possess varying degrees of alkaloids, producing symptoms ranging from irritation to fatality. All parts of Datura and Brugmansia are considered highly toxic.

This is not a plant to be cultivated where children and animals would come into contact with it. However, that said, the Brugmansia has been steadily gaining in popularity. Prized for its fragrant, showy blossoms, this night-bloomer is often situated by porches or patios that are frequented in the evening. It is a fine candidate for the moonlight garden.

A native of South America, this tropical beauty is often confined to pot culture, with the container moved indoors to a plant room or greenhouse for the winter. Such a specimen should provide a season of color and fragrance from spring to early fall. Choose from sparkling whites, delicate pastels and more intense shades. Singles are plentiful and new doubles are being hybridized, although some of these command kingly sums.

For a peek at some of the other Brugmansia varieties, visit Judy's Garden Party... headquartered in Tennessee, she also journals, raises English bulldogs, takes in strays, offers loads of valuable info on a number of topics - bookmark this one... you'll enjoy this site! I even found pet food recipes. What fun!

©Deb Lambert 2007

Getting off the ground at shutterbug on knights pond...

"Around the World in Eighty Days"

You know... as in hot a air balloon. Like the song from the 1956 movie, which I, along with my eighth grade glee club, belted out in the Junior High gymnasium - longer ago than I care to admit. Like the Jules Verne novel, "Around the World in Eighty Days."

I've done a bit of reading about Jules Verne (1828-1905), a prolific French author, whose novels "Journey to the Interior of the Earth" and "20,000 Leagues Under the Sea" may be just as familiar to you. His training and life experiences contribute to his unique, visionary style of writing... combining real science with pure fantasy - quite an interesting fellow. To learn more about Jules Verne and to sample some of his writings as Ebook excerpts, click on Jules Verne.

Now, why this sudden interest in "Around the World in Eighty Days?"

Go to shutterbug on knights pond for the answer...


©Deb Lambert 2007

Sunset Haiku

©2007 S.R. Calef

As day retires

Piercing shafts of burnished gold

Paint the sky with hope

©Deb Lambert 2007

Swallow Connection - Final Chapter

©2007 S.R. Calef

This photo really tells most of the story,
but I'll fill in a few details.

©2007 S.R. Calef

Not cleared for take-off...

I don't know about you, but I'm going to miss this barn swallow family and their on-going adventures. The above photos were taken on 7/29/07 and represent the last installment in this series. The empty nest is a good thing and, yes, the final head count was three.

On July 30, all three successfully fledged. Here is the approximate timeline from our intrepid field reporter/photographer, Steve Calef. Morning - two fledglings on the garage bay floor and one in the bed of the nursery truck, a vintage Dodge Power Wagon. Noon - two airborne and one still in the truck bed. Late afternoon - that last fledgling left the comfort of his "truck stop," flying off to join his siblings in the big, wide world.

We began sharing this adventure on July 27 and I hope you found it interesting and enlightening, as did I. The Hirundo rustica, or barn swallow, proved to be a captivating character - full of quirks, foibles and eccentricities... at least when viewed through the human lens on life. Reference the July 31st posting, in case you missed the details. Just imagine, after a couple more weeks of being fed "on the fly" by their parents, some of these "babies" may very well become parents, themselves - even the little "truck swallow!"

It's said that female barn swallows prefer to mate with males sporting the longest forked tails, as well as the deepest chest color (sort of a red-chestnut shade). These characteristics evidently indicate the high quality of such an individual and, one would suppose, lead to a continued improvement in the species. So, let us hope that this hatching produced discriminating females and the most handsome of males, for the betterment of barn swallows, everywhere!

Note: A barn swallow's lifespan is around 4 years, with some individuals reaching 8 years old, in the wild, and as much as 12 years in captivity.

©Deb Lambert 2007

The Lucy Factor at shutterbug on knights pond...

Swallow Connection - Part 6

©2007 S.R. Calef - 7/23/07

©2007 S.R. Calef - 7/25/07

As promised, the saga continues to unfold. These photos show how fast the nestlings have progressed, starting to become well-feathered... most definitely beginning to look like their parents. My concern at this point, was the head count. I hadn't had an update on that for several days, so I kept trying to find the third head in the nest. If you come back tomorrow, all will be revealed - accurate head count and the big finale.

©Deb Lambert 2007

Tiptoe through the meadow at shutterbug on knights pond...