GardenAuthor: September 2007

Friday, September 28, 2007

TOPSFIELD FAIR... World's Longest Posting! Enjoy!

Hi! "Chuck" here, with a few recommendations for your autumn calendar.

1.) Go for a Sunday drive, as often as possible - even if it's not Sunday. Fill your eyes with the glories of fall in New England, while I guard the remainder of your backyard harvest. (Heh, heh, heh!)

2.) Go to Topsfield Fair - go early, go often. Again, I'll protect those backyard veggies from marauding chipmunks. No, seriously.

3.)Go ahead and read this excruciatingly long posting, including the poem, "Come to the Fair." If this doesn't put you in a county fair frame of mind, I don't know what will. Personally, I think Deb got carried away, but take a little break for some light reading. Take all the time you need. Relax. I'll be right here, the first line of defense, as wave after wave of field mouse battalions mount their attack on these poor, defenseless vegetables.

So, kick back, enjoy the fall and don't think twice about me. Seriously, not to worry. "Eat, drink and be merry, for in October we hibernate"... or the equivalent human proverb - that is after all, the groundhog's autumnal motto. Your garden is safe. Leave your harvest in my capable paws (Heh, heh, heh). No, seriously! Happy autumnal equinox... Chuck

Ah - Autumn in New England... Warm, sunny days and cool, dewy nights. Porches and yards decorated with the colors of autumn. The first hint of color washes over summer-weary foliage. Harvest time. A time of abundance and celebration. A time of county fairs and family outings. We pay homage to our rich, agricultural history and treasure the stalwart few who continue these traditions. And, of course, we pay homage to the mighty pumpkin and the pursuit of ginormous curcurbits.

[A special "thank you" to Steve Calef, of Corliss Bros. Garden Center (Ipswich, MA) for his 2006 & 2007 ©copyrighted summer & fall photos, which delightfully enhance this rather long posting.]

In this neck of the woods, our own Topsfield Fair (click on Topsfield Fair for history, events and a tour of this fair, in its 189th year), runs September 28th - October 8th, 2007... starts today - have fun at the fair! And have fun with these county fair reminiscences...

COME TO THE FAIR!
By Deb Lambert

FFA and Senior’s Day
Glossy hens, pigs in pens
French fries crunch, picnic lunch
Oxen pull, big prize bull
Winning pies that hypnotize
Horses prancing, folks line-dancing
Ducks that quack, flies we whack
Slopping hogs, stale corn dogs

"Story-time," songs that rhyme
Milking cows, nursing sows
Baby pigs, musicians' gigs
Roosters' crows, stains on clothes
Fried dough cake, bellyache
Smells are gross, much too close
Prize flowers, sudden showers
Making sport of pigs that snort

Step right up, win a pup
Toys on sticks, magician's tricks
Sheep are sheared, farmers cheered
Jellies and jams, pies from yams
Handmade quilts, men on stilts
Chair caning, sun waning
Oil painting, someone fainting
Dust and dirt, soiled new shirt

Country tunes, soaring balloons
4-H club, cows that rub
handsome goats, winner gloats
Big brass band, never bland
Pay your money, win a bunny
Homemade fudge, flower judge
Honeybees, cheddar cheese
Tractor pull, grandstand full

Cooking demos, making memos
Fragrant hay, fun-filled day
Jams, jellies, over-filled bellies
Honking geese, bags of fleece
Songs on a fiddle, smoking griddle
Arts and crafts, chilly drafts
Crowds and shoves, fancy doves
Guinea hens in wire pens

Irish dancers, equine prancers
Antique car, honey jar
Honeybees with yellow knees
Gastronome eats honeycomb
Spinning wool, draft horse pull
Flower display, pots of clay
Cotton candy - gritty, sandy
Rides are spinning, kids are grinning
Birds so strange, local grange

Barn's dank gloom, horse to groom
Incubator, see chicks later
Broken pickets, raffle tickets
Homemade stew, petting zoo
Llama drool, baby mule
Beeswax sticks and fuzzy chicks
Winning rabbit, name of "Cabot"
Mucking stalls, cleaning walls

On their guard, with clean barnyard
Test your strength, horse race length
Pumpkin prize, impressive size
Garden spider, apple cider
Misty-eyed as horses stride
Clydesdales pass the show-ring grass
The only sound, thundering ground
Hot noon sun burns everyone

Autumn breeze, we almost freeze
Police dogs drill, quite a thrill
Needlepoint frames, fun and games
Bluegrass bands, sticky hands
Afghan sale, tiny quail
Firewood raffle, games that baffle
Alpaca show, more fried dough
Crown Colleen the County Queen

Baby crawls to homemade dolls
Baked goods' smell, crowds to quell
Needlepoint wall, view them all
Treasure troves, new wood stoves
Dairy goats munching oats
Pumpkin carving, "Mom, I'm starving!"
Homemade brownies, no more frownies!
Elephant rides, gigantic strides

Marionettes, cavies as pets
Feed and grain, miniature train
Preening pheasant, day so pleasant
Weather snappy, tired and happy
Baby's asleep, head for the Jeep
Kiddies squawk at the walk
Day is done, what great fun
Memories to share, come to the fair!

©Deb Lambert 2007

Thursday, September 27, 2007

EVERY FLIGHT OF 2,000 MILES, STARTS WITH THE FLUTTER OF TWO WINGS...

All sequencing from Corliss Bros. Garden Center
Ipswich, MA

Above, we view the wing drying process, as the monarch rests from its arduous task. Then, after visiting the garden mums, along with the ornamental cabbage and kale, our monarch seems to have formed an affinity for one particular member of the garden center staff. Jackie, longtime member of the plant sales team, is seen having an up close and personal "Kodak moment" with the monarch, as wings are tested and goodbyes are said. Do you suppose she sang, "Born Free," as this coddled monarch flew through the bedding department? (I might have been tempted.)

Anyway, this has been an absolutely delightful sequencing project and one which I hope you enjoyed following. This was the most ambitious project, since the six-part July/August "Swallow Connection" series, which began July 27th (just click on the date, if you missed it). Again, thanks to everyone involved. What a perfect reminder to us all... "Ain't nature grand?"

©Deb Lambert 2007

Wednesday, September 26, 2007

The Metamorphosis

No doubt about it - this monarch wants out. Appearing to be wrapped in the thinnest plastic film, our friend seems on the verge of breaking through. Before I forget, I want to thank the folks at Corliss Bros. Garden Center, in Ipswich, MA, for guarding and sheltering this monarch, prior to the monumental event. I understand that customers were dropping by, camera in hand, to capture at least part of the sequence.

And I especially wish to thank Steve Calef for his patience and perseverance in obtaining these excellent photos... and, obviously, for sharing them with us. The above photos are from September 19th.

Still the 19th, with the "blessed event" about to take place... take a last look at the chrysalis.

Oops! Did you blink? I guess the folks on "Monarch Watch" were distracted for about 5 minutes and missed the actual transformation. When they turned back, it was over. What a disappointment for everybody. Can you see the butterfly? It's center-photo - we're looking at the wing edges, as the drying process begins.

Although the actual event was not captured, the pictures immediately following this are interesting and entertaining. Tomorrow, we'll finish the drying, get onto the flying and a few last antics. We started the journey on September 24th, so if you just found this posting, scroll back to view the early shots and learn a little about the monarch's life cycle.

That green phase, from the first day, is explained by the fact that the pupa is green - not the chrysalis. Gradually, the unique colors and patterning of the monarch become evident, until full color is attained, just before emergence.

If you'd like to get the full experience, go to Monarch Butterfly USA for great still shots, as well as a small video of a monarch gaining its freedom. The rest of the site has good information and is kid-friendly.

Come back tomorrow for the grand finale!

©Deb Lambert 2007

Tuesday, September 25, 2007

Monitoring the Monarch

In this series, we find the characteristic monarch wing patterning to be much more discernible. The initial green phase of the chrysalis has passed and the gradual thinning of this protective membrane, now allows a clearer view.

Yesterday's posting covered the life cycle of the four generations, including the last generation of the season. Obviously, they migrate the 2,000 miles to California or Mexico, to avoid the freezing winter temperatures which would kill them. It's also interesting to note that not only do they return to the same areas each fall, but usually return to the same tree every year, for hibernation. Since milkweed is not native to southern climes, monarchs must make the return journey, north, the following spring. There, they attach their eggs to the larval food source, milkweed. However, as the eggs hatch, the first food devoured is the egg shell. Then they move onto the milkweed feast.

As caterpillars grow, their shell-like covering does not grow and expand with them. So, several times during this phase, the outgrown skin is shed and the little face mask, as well. The consummate recycler, this monarch caterpillar tidies up (and gets a few extra nutrients) by eating its own skin. Eventually, when it's time to pupate, the caterpillar attaches itself to the underside of branch, petiole or leaf with a small silken button. There it remains for about 10 days, until the adult monarch emerges.

If you have late summer/early fall flowers in the landscape, you're probably noticing this last generation of monarchs dining on nectar, almost nonstop. Notice their size, as well. They are definitely larger than the spring and summer generations. Just today, I was watching them on a few late perennials, the last of the butterfly bush flowers and the cosmos. Fall asters are particularly attractive to them, as is the sweet autumn clematis. Don't forget nectar plants for the butterflies, as you plan next season's gardens.

©Deb Lambert 2007

Monday, September 24, 2007

Magnificant Monarchs

Courtesy of the folks at Corliss Bros. Garden Center, we're about to follow the progression of this monarch butterfly, from the chrysalis (pupa stage) to adult butterfly. We are viewing the handsome green chrysalis which houses the pupa for about 10 days. A small silken disk holds it firmly in place.

Every butterfly has a complete metamorphosis, passing through 4 distinct stages... egg, caterpillar, chrysalis and adult butterfly. There are four generations of monarchs per year.

This last generation, September/October, is the longest living generation of the year. They also tend to be the largest, strongest generation. After feeding on nectar, they will begin the 2,000 mile southern migration to Mexico or Southern California, where they will hibernate for the winter. These monarchs awaken in February/March, mate and fly northward (another 2,000 miles) to lay their eggs on milkweed, their larval food of choice. Worn out and ragged from the migration/hibernation cycle, this generation dies.

So, in March/April, we see the first generation of monarchs, progressing through the egg, caterpillar, chrysalis and adult phase. The second generation starts in May/June, the third in July/August...

...Which brings us to the September/October, or 4th generation, as above. As this series continues, we'll share more interesting facts about the monarch and watch the subtle changes in this particular chrysalis. To view the striking striped caterpillar, learn more about the life cycle and discover related links, click on Monarch Butterfly Website.

©Deb Lambert 2007

Saturday, September 22, 2007

Sweet Autumn Clematis

There's probably no other fall flowering plant quite as popular as sweet autumn clematis. And there may be no other plant that has been the recipient of as many name changes as this clematis. Scientifically speaking, its original handle of Clematis paniculata seems to persist, although it's also referred to as C. maximonowicziana (I know... I won't even try) and C. terniflora. I'll stick with C. paniculata, thank you. Trained to arch across a natural pathway, this clematis is ideal for a number of landscape applications.

As the above close-up demonstrates, this clematis offers valuable late season nectar for bees, butterflies and other pollinators. Zone hardiness is 4-9 and it prefers full sun to partial shade.

Growth rate is rapid and although it can reach 30' in height, it is easily pruned and trained in a variety of styles. Flowers are borne on new wood, so an early spring pruning will control size. Bloom time is August and September, which is followed by seed production - rarely, seedlings are a little invasive. The twining stems readily climb across archways, arbors and pergolas.

Here we see sweet autumn clematis clambering over a rustic country fence. Because of its vigorous habit, it is often used to hide unsightly views. Wherever you employ this clematis, the amazingly sweet perfume will fragrance the late summer/early fall air.

This view of a single blossom reveals the delicate beauty... a simple, yet complex flower.

Spectacular against the bright September sky, sweet autumn clematis drifts across the landscape like freshly fallen snow. In spring, such a sweet tangle of vines is often home to the delicate nest of the hummingbird, providing dense protection, long before it blooms.

One more use? This is where that 30' height comes into play. Spilling down a hillside, cascading across ledge, sweet autumn clematis is an effective and fragrant answer to many a ground cover question. This a plant worth investigating - worthy of your landscape.

©Deb Lambert 2007

Friday, September 21, 2007

A Little Taste of Autumn

Ornamental grass (probably Calamagrostis/Feather Reed Grass), outside Gillette Stadium in Foxboro, MA

Cornstalks for that fall harvest touch... nice foil for mums, fall asters, ornamental cabbage and kale, ornamental peppers and 'Icicle' pansies.

"And now for something completely different..."

White is the new orange - at least when it comes to pumpkins!

©Deb Lambert 2007

Tuesday, September 18, 2007

The Genus Tulipa

'Apricot Beauty', Single Early Tulip. At 18" high, it has more wind resistance than taller, later flowering hybrids. It is suffused with apricot, rose and salmon, making it a soft, yet striking accent for the early spring garden.

Single Late Tulip 'Helmar' puts on quite a show, on 22" stems, in the late spring garden.

'Red Emperor' Fosteriana Tulips average about 14" high and are among the first of the longer stemmed tulips to flower. These perennialize very nicely.

Like the 'Red Emperor' above, 'White Emperor' is rugged and fairly early, and quite good at multiplying from year to year.

Single Early Tulip, possibly 'Sunray'. Like 'Apricot Beauty', it is a colorful, early bloomer - flowering just after the Fosteriana, or 'Emperor' tulips.

Most likely a fully opened, Lily-flowered Tulip... an unnamed hybrid. These range from 14-24" and flower in late spring. To avoid wind damage, plant in a sheltered spot. The gracefully curved, outward arching petals make this a stunning cut flower.

I believe the red and white species above to be Triumph Tulips (my best "educated" guess), a mid-spring group that blooms a week or so before the Darwin Hybrids. That classic tulip flower shape, atop 16-22" stems, accounts for continued popularity. These are reported to be ideal for forcing.

'Fancy Frills' is a Fringed Tulip. This group consists of mutations from other tulip classes, so height ranges from 8-30", depending on the original class. Good for massing in borders and as a most unique cut flower.

Another entrant in our Lily Flowered Tulip class, 'Ballade' exhibits that graceful goblet shaped bloom, with a striking white edge. Like all tulips, 'Ballade' needs excellent drainage and prefers full sun. Under these conditions, they multiply fairly reliably.

This colorful glance into the Genus Tulipa, was courtesy of flowerpictures.net
All the above photos are from their site. Unfortunately, not all the photos were titled, so I hope my detective work was helpful.

There are 16 commonly accepted, official divisions in the classification of tulips. The best, most accessible information I've discovered is at theplantexpert.com
Just click on each of the categories to reveal descriptions and cultural preferences of all 16 divisions. Lots of great photos, as well. On this site, you'll also find the 15 daffodil divisions, along with many other spring-flowering bulbs, presented with in-depth information.

For a look at the tulip's wild and adventurous past, this article by Barbara Schulman provides all the colorful details of "Tulip Mania" and beyond... Click on "Tulips"

©Deb Lambert 2007

Sunday, September 16, 2007

Pansies? Now?

In the fall? In Zone 5 New England? Yes - in fact, these pansies are hardy to Ontario! You'll find 'Icicle' pansies available at local gardens centers, ready to be planted from late summer to early fall.

After a long, dreary winter, there's nothing like a flat of pansies to brighten our mood and our garden. We enjoy their bravado in the face of cold, damp spring. But, as the days get longer, the sun brighter and the temperatures higher, our beloved pansies start to slump. Blossoming all but ceases, new growth becomes leggy and plants flop over in a most ungraceful fashion.

We try placing these spring-planted pansies in a cooler spot, with some partial shade, to lengthen their productivity. We trim them back and apply fertilizer, for a little "rebound" flowering. But, despite our best efforts, they languish during the dog days of summer. And so, we resign ourselves, looking forward to the possibility of a small autumn encore. Sure, they might seed in over the winter (or, an occasional plant may survive)... but, essentially, we were dealing with a one-season (spring) annual.

Now, with the introduction of fall-planted 'Icicle' pansies, everything changes. This is considered a two-season annual. Planted in late summer/early fall, their colors enliven the autumn landscape, right up until the first freeze of winter. Bark mulch is fine, but there's no need for extra winter mulch. 'Icicle' pansies will simply go into a winter dormancy.

As winter subsides and temperatures just start to moderate, your fall efforts are rewarded by a spectacular display, which persists through late spring. These pansies will have filled in, flowering at just the right time to augment your spring-flowering bulbs. So, as you plant Dutch bulbs this fall, include 'Icicle' pansies in complementary or contrasting hues.

The color choice is broad... from apricot and orange to shades of blue, purple and even black, you'll find single hues and rich bicolors. There's nothing cheerier, in the spring or fall garden, than pansy "faces." Keep them cheery and thriving by planting 'Icicle' pansies in full sun to just a little shade, with shelter from prevailing wind. Well-drained soil is essential, especially during the winter. Work organic, granular fertilizer into the soil at planting time and attend to watering, should this be a dry autumn. Reapply fertilizer next spring, as plants break dormancy. Deadheading to remove spent blooms is not essential to their continued bud set, merely a tidying process that some gardeners like to perform.

So - Pansies? Now? Why not? Why wouldn't you want these cheerful little faces, bobbing in the autumn breeze, and greeting you early next spring? Try some 'Icicle' pansies this fall!

©Deb Lambert 2007

Note: There are 'Icicle' violas, as well... worth seeking out, if you like the smaller, more delicate Viola. Though smaller than pansy flowers, the blossoms are borne in greater profusion.

Thursday, September 13, 2007

Last Hurrah for Annuals

Annuals, like these handsome hybrid snapdragons, complete their life cycle in one growing season. All season we deadhead, cutting back old flower stalks before seed formation commences. By so doing, we trick the annual into a continuous succession of blossoms, all summer, until frost. Not that it's a bad thing. This is a time-honored tradition amongst gardeners, keeping flower beds, potted plants and hanging baskets looking their best all season. After all, the growing season here in Zone 5, is relatively short (with apologies to Zone 4 gardeners), so appearance is everything. The knowing gardener combines the deadheading process with applications of water-soluble fish/seaweed fertilizer, every 10-14 days to further boost blossom production.

The natural sequence is this... 1.) Autumn: A ripe seed falls from the annual plant, becomes embedded in the soil and overwinters. 2.) Spring: As soon as the soil has warmed sufficiently, the dormant seed sprouts and develops quite rapidly during the warm spring weather. 3.) Summer: As the young plant continues to mature, flowering is initiated. 4.)Insects and/or wind pollinate the flowers. 5.) Blossoms reach maturity, then start to fade. 6.) Seed production starts, in the base of the flower. 7.) Seeds continue to grow and the seed pod ripens. 8.) When conditions are right, the fully matured seeds drop to the ground - some, like cosmos, germinate the same season and provide fresh plants (a "new wave" of color). 9.) And, we're back to #1, with seeds for next year's crop, nestled in the soil awaiting spring.

Knowing these simple realities of the natural world, understanding growth cycles and how it all works, helps us achieve the desired effects in our own gardens. And, knowing that many annual hybrids will revert to the basic characteristics of one of the parents, may have you discouraging that natural process... in favor of new hybrid seed or transplants, each spring.

Snapdragons are notoriously free-seeding and, as with many other annuals, will readily come up from seed each spring, if the area is relatively undisturbed. Several times, I've had snapdragons germinate between the bricks of a walkway - they really are pretty tough. Occasionally, an "annual" snapdragon survives the winter and lives for an additional season.

Here we see a bumblebee heading for the sweet nectar of a stunningly blue annual salvia. Late-blooming shrubs, vines and perennials are all prized for their displays in the fall garden, as well as the valuable source of nectar they provide. Many annuals are nectar-rich and since they blossom right up until frost, bees, butterflies and other pollinators will happily frequent your gardens. Below, we find our busy bee on a handsome red snapdragon.

Snapdragon, or Antirrhinum majus, is available as an 8-10" dwarf (for pots and edging), an 18-24" mid-height (for bedding), the 30-36" "Rocket" series (for cut flowers) and there are a few that may reach 3-5' in height (back of the border/need staking). Red, orange, yellow, purple and white are the basic colors, but there are many shades and even bicolors that broaden your choices. In the dwarfs, look for the "Tahiti," "Montego," "Floral Carpet" and "Bells" series ... this last one has open, butterfly-type flowers - all present a great range of color. In the 18-24" range, there's the "Liberty," "Sonnet" and "Madame Butterfly" series providing intense color and varied blossom shapes. They'll be plenty of time to peruse garden catalogs and seed racks before next spring's choices are made... you'll find many more varieties from which to choose.

Full sun to a little partial shade and a fertile, well-drained, moderately moist soil is ideal. Snapdragons can be lined out in formal rows, as is the tradition for annual bedding plants, or simply tucked into informal groupings within mixed beds. Plan to mix in a few of those gorgeous blue salvias, for a show-stopping garden, next season.

Did you grow up with snapdragons? Did your mother show you how each blossom can talk? No? Pick one off the stock, squeeze gently on both sides of the "dragon's mouth" and see how easily the mouth moves. Show this to a child... it's only fun if you make a squeaky voice, that appears to be coming from that dragon mouth. They'll always remember it. I still do!

So, get out in that garden and observe other gardens, as you travel about. Make a few mental notes for next season's annual display. Participate in all the joys of autumn - especially in that last hurrah for annuals.

©Deb Lambert 2007

Wednesday, September 12, 2007

Dutch Treats

Snow Crocus - earliest crocus to bloom. They often brave late snows and frigid temperatures to provide this extravagant display. "Snow Crocus" encompasses several species, such as C. chrysanthus and C. sieberi (as in Siberia) - so yes, these are hardy, rugged individuals! Flowers remain intact through wind and harsh conditions, lasting much longer than the later blooming giant crocus species.

'Heart's Delight' Kaufmaniana Tulip. Flower exterior is red, while the interior is white, fading to light rose with a yellow throat. The Kaufmanianas are often referred to as Waterlily Tulips, because of their form, when fully opened. Blooming in March, with richly streaked foliage, these 8-10" tulips naturalize nicely and can be complemented with grape hyacinth (Muscari) planted atop, for a mini flower show.

Narcissus is a genus boasting many species. This particular member is 'Gigantic Tar', a large cupped daffodil. 'King Alfred', 'Carlton' and 'Dutch Master' remain popular choices for early to mid-spring color. Height is about 18" and bulbs are cold hardy to Zone 3.

In March to early April, Iris reticulata blooms in shades of blue and purple, at a height of 4-6". It is particularly handsome mixed in with early flowering tulips, such as 'Red Riding Hood' or 'Heart's Delight.' Unlike your bearded iris which produce rhizomes, these early reticulata species are true bulbs. They are very picky about drainage and will not succeed in overly wet locations... nor will the other spring iris bulb, I. danfordiae - this dwarf yellow prefers the drainage found in rock gardens. The above photo appears to be Iris reticulata 'Purple Gem'.

DUTCH TREATS

Snowdrops nodding defiantly after a late winter snow... snow crocus poking through mulch and snow, with a burst of stored energy... early, dwarf tulips sporting chunky blooms and fancy foliage... daffodils heralding spring's arrival, trumpets dancing in the spring breeze... the heady fragrance of hyacinths, in a rainbow of colors. To enjoy even one of these "Dutch treats," you must plan and plant in the fall. Happily, this is another of those garden projects that can involve the whole family. What child wouldn't be in awe of an entire plant, sleeping within that tiny bulb in their hand? Talk about miracles!

The best bulb selections are found during September and October, at your local garden center. Ideal planting weather commences in mid-October, proceeding through late November. The mid-October time frame allows for a maximum rooting-in period, before the onset of winter. However, most gardeners have, at least once, planted bulbs just before the ground froze and still experienced a great spring display. Should there be a warm fall, foliage may sprout prematurely, but natural insulation protects the entire plant, with an occasional scorched leaf tip the only reminder next spring.

Tulips, hyacinths and daffodils (and other Narcissi) are considered "major" bulbs and are planted 6-8" deep and 6-8" apart. Crocus (actually corms), snowdrops, grape hyacinths, pushkinia, chionodoxa and other small bulbs are classified as "minor" bulbs and are planted 3-4" deep and 3-4" apart. These spacings work well in formal beds, with long rows of single bulbs. For informal landscapes, consider the "pocket" method of planting. Dig a hole 8" deep by 12" wide. Work a handful of bulb food or superphosphate into the soil. Place your "major" bulbs across the bottom - they can be almost touching for this method. Backfill, tamp lightly and water until 3-4" of depth remains. Scratch a little more bulb food into the soil and place your selection of "minor" bulbs across this surface, finish backfilling and water again. Top off with 2" of bark mulch, or apply salt marsh hay when the ground freezes. If it's a dry autumn, water until the ground freezes.

If you've followed this layered mehtod, what can you expect next spring? If you've planned wisely, the most spectacular display in the neighborhood! Plant late-blooming tulips with early snow crocus, to lengthen the season. 'King Alfred' daffodils, combined with grape hyacinths, blossom together for an eye-popping, gold and blue explosion. Try 'Red Emperor' tulips, topped off with intensely blue Chionodoxa - Fabulous! Frilly, pale blue Puskinia, paired with dwarf, yellow and red 'Cape Cod' tulips, is a winning combination. The "cute as a button" dwarf, blue Iris reticulata are perfect with almost any of the early tulips.

While a site in full sun is ideal for all bulbs, most of the minor bulbs and some of the major bulbs, will accept a bit less than full exposure. Shade created by deciduous trees is non-existent in early spring, allowing the cultivation of bulbs on wooded edges. Scilla siberica is a good example of a bulb tolerating a half-day of shade... the bright blue dangling bells will quickly form a groundcover beneath your yellow forsythia, for a breathtaking contrast!

Drainage is the key factor to success with bulbs... improve drainage by incorporating sand, garden gypsum and compost into clay soils before planting, below the proposed depths of planting holes. Sandy soils will retain more moisture with the addition of peat, compost and gypsum.

Oh, while you're selecting next spring's bulb garden, don't forget to pick up some extra bulbs for forcing... a great indoor flower show starts now, as well - go get those Dutch Treats, now!

©Deb Lambert 2007

All photos in this article are courtesy of "Flower Pictures." This site has great flower and garden photos... travel on over for a real treat!

Monday, September 10, 2007

The Asters of Autumn

Our native New England Aster is the genesis for an attractive array of color in the fall garden. Native species are mainly rose or violet and are regarded as the most showy of wild asters, the flowers producing numerous rays. Hardy from Canada and Maine, southward, New England Asters are found from upland meadows to wet areas. These natives grow 3-7' high, but hybridization has produced garden specimens that rarely exceed two feet and a broader color range that includes more blue and pink hues, as well as white.

Quick botanical history - In 1995, Aster novae-angliae underwent a name change (many asters were reclassified under various genera, at that time) and became Symphyotrichum novae-angliae. Asteraceae is the family, although formerly it was Compositae (in some references, these are still used synonymously). And you thought botanical Latin was boring? Botanists are constantly refining and tweaking these classifications, based on the ongoing studies of plant characteristics. Keeps us on our horticultural toes!

Anyway, back to things ornamental - These New England Aster hybrids are full, mounding plants that truly brighten a summer-weary landscape. Whether edging a bed, marching up the edges of your front steps or perking up window boxes and container gardens, fall asters are a welcome addition to the fall garden scene. Utilized in much the same way as garden mums, these late-blooming beauties include winter hardiness as a valuable attribute, normally surviving from Zones 4-9.

Now, while asters are actually perennials, the culture and care is much the same as for garden mums, their not-so-hardy companions -"cousins" in the Asteraceae/Compositae Family. If you missed the 8/28/07 posting, just click on "Hardy" Mums, for the cultural "scoop." If you follow the same planting and maintenance techniques, which are spelled out in great detail, you should become a triumphant grower of asters. Combining these recommendations, with the innate hardiness of our New England Asters, almost assures success.

Quick-Care Outline: 1.) As flowering ceases, plant asters directly in the garden, removing the pot and scarifying the roots. Do not plant any deeper. 2.) Plant in full sun, in well-drained, moderately moist soil. 3.) An area that provides some shelter from harsh winter wind is preferred. 4.) Leave the plant intact, allowing its dried framework to collect and hold fallen leaves - this protects the crown, over winter. An additional 3-4" layer of salt marsh hay can be added after the ground freezes. 5.) Remove leaves and winter mulch in early spring, cutting back to about 4" from the ground. 6.) For fuller plants, cut back stems by 1/2 every two weeks, once plants are a foot tall. Root these trimmings, if desired. 7.) Feed with water-soluble fertilizer each time you prune, to generate quick, full growth. 8.) Powdery mildew is one of the few problems you may experience with asters. If they're in too much shade, have wet feet or you consistently wet the foliage, this is usually the result. Eliminating these conditions, should keep the plants clean. Heat, combined with humidity, can also accelerate this problem. Use one of the newer, safer disease preventatives or controls, if needed.

On the whole, the asters of autumn are a desirable group of plants and well worth cultivating. On hikes around New England, I've encountered many a New England Aster... clinging to a wooded slope, beside a placid pond or digging its roots into a rock crevice, tenaciously gaining a foothold. Why wouldn't you want a plant with this kind of heritage, embedded deep within its genetics? Updated to meet the demands of modern gardeners and "dressed to kill," in a rainbow of hues, hybridized New England Asters are the new face of autumn.

Saturday, September 08, 2007

The Genus Miscanthus

As promised, it's back to the ornamental grasses. Today, let's discover the joys of Miscanthus. Whether we're contemplating maiden grass, zebra grass, porcupine grass or Japanese silver grass, the Miscanthus genus encompasses one of the largest groups of ornamental grasses.
Above we see Miscanthus sinensis 'Gold Bar', a more showy, compact form of porcupine grass. Horizontal, yellow leaf variegations are much closer than those of the larger growing porcupine grass (M. sinensis 'Strictus'), making for a remarkable display. With a mature height of 3-5' and width of 2-3', it produces burgundy inflorescences just above the foliage in autumn.

Next we have the always popular Miscanthus sinensis 'Gracillimus' (probably the oldest cultivar), a maiden grass. With very fine-textured, thin blades, and good fall color, this 4-6' specimen is hardy to Zone 4. Inflorescences are borne atop the arching foliage.

The showy, white, longitudinal stripes make the 6' high Miscanthus sinensis 'Variegatus' a long standing garden favorite. The pink inflorescences, produced in late summer, remain attractive well into winter.

These are the newly-emerged inflorescences, before they have opened fully, giving the feathery plumes we value in these grasses. Depending on variety, they will have a reddish, pink, beige or silvered appearance in the autumn.

Porcupine grass, or Miscanthus sinensis 'Strictus', has a mature height of 6'. Its horizontal banding enhances this grass of upright habit.

Other than a couple of Zone 4 exceptions, Miscanthus is hardy from Zone 5-9. Full sun, no heavy feeding schedule (a little granular fertilizer in early spring) and good drainage will keep these plants sturdy and free-standing, without need of staking. They sometimes throw seed, but for Northern gardens, this is generally not a problem.

Miscanthus is a clump grower, meaning that it is not intrusive; however, division of the clump every 3-5 years is recommended - waiting longer, makes division a daunting task. Generally, in early spring, clumps are cut to within 6-8" from the ground. This allows light and air into the center, for strong, full regrowth. Failure to remove old foliage, forces the new growth to emerge around the edges, leaving a misshapen clump.

Smaller, more recent hybrids expand the cultural horizons of Miscanthus... with container gardens and smaller borders a distinct possibility. Taller specimens are effective as screens, backdrops, accents and lend themselves to mass planting. As with so many ornamental grasses, a pairing with late summer/early fall perennials provides lasting interest. Black-eyed Susan, 'Autumn Joy' sedum, fall asters, garden mums, ornamental cabbage and kale are just a few of the combinations that really work well.

We invite maiden grass, or some of her relatives, into the garden for many reasons. The sound of rustling foliage makes us cooler in summer, and is unexpected in winter. The graceful plumes dance in the breeze and make us rejoice at autumn's bounty. Standing tall and proud in the garden, dusted with snow, they provide a little substance in the bleakness of winter.

Whether or not we revisit the topic of grasses and sedges (Carex species), the best way to learn more about them, is an in-person introduction at your local garden center. Don't wait too long - they go "like hotcakes" once those showy plumes start to emerge!

©Deb Lambert 2007

Thursday, September 06, 2007

Ornamental Peppers?

What ornamental peppers? I said what, on September 2? Hold on - I'll go look. Oops, you're right! At the end of the great cabbage column, I mentioned peppers. Well, like I told you - it's an exciting time of year. We've an abundance of colorful fall plants and limited time to rattle on about them. So, we'll take a break from those ornamental grasses, to cover peppers.

Whether you call them ornamental peppers or Christmas peppers, their proper Latin name is Capsicum annuum (Family: Solanaceae - eggplant, potato, tomato, sweet pepper, deadly nightshade, etc.) [Do not confuse these with Jerusalem Cherry - all parts of this pepper relative, including the round red fruits, are poisonous.]

The nice thing about these tiny ornamental peppers is their longevity. Started by seed in the spring, they remain colorful all fall, often right through the winter; hence, "Christmas peppers." They fall somewhere between an annual and a tender perennial. So, brought inside for the winter, they continue to delight with deep green foliage and bright fruit... just take care not to bring insects inside with them.

These full plants bear small (up to 2" long), mostly tapered fruits. In perusing anecdotal information, I encountered the comment that they were strictly ornamental, not edible. Well, edibility is in the taste buds of the beholder. The pungency, or heat, generated by these innocent-looking little fruits is amazing. They range from 5,000 Scoville Units (hot) to over 30,000 Units (extremely hot). As far as I'm concerned, they're not edible. However, I've seen rave reviews about their value in cooking - fresh or dried... even recipes for jelly... along with warnings about handling the fruit with gloves and protective goggles. Not for the faint-hearted! Do not touch your eyes, after handling the fruit.

Ornamental peppers are 12-18" in height, compact and ideal for summer borders or container culture. In either case, they need full sun, fertile, well-drained soil and moderate moisture. They require about 70-80 days from seed sowing to maturity. As an aside, 'Black Pearl' a 2006 introduction, has purple-black leaves and fruits and makes an amazing, contrasting accent. So, as seen in the above photos, there are many color choices. Certainly, several of these little pepper plants would perk up your fall exterior decorating scheme... and maybe your interior decorating, too. Add a little spice to your autumn!

©Deb Lambert 2007

Wednesday, September 05, 2007

Blue Oat Grass

And so, we begin an overview of ornamental grasses. Grasses, never intended for use as lawn or turf candidates. Grasses to be admired, placed on a pedestal, used as focal points... all because of their intrinsic ornamental value. We admire such grasses for pleasing outlines, graceful form, attractive inflorescences and seed heads, foliage color and textural contribution to the landscape. Such grasses soften plantings, adding sound and movement with the slightest breeze.

Sitting here, I got curious. Is it me, or was it in the 1980's that the buzz started? Well, a little sleuthing reveals that the "buzz" started in public gardens around Washington, D.C., in the 80's. The plantings of German born landscape architect Wolfgang Oehme highlighted the importance of ornamental grasses. Professionals and homeowners quickly embraced this group of trouble-free, often cold-hardy plants, for the reasons listed above.

In 1985, as I commenced managing the bedding department of a local garden center, I was suddenly inundated by requests for maiden grass, fountain grass, blue oat grass and a few other specimens. Noted architects and designers and, eventually homeowners, were anxious to work with these plants. The rest, as they say, is history. Improved hybrids, along with proven performance, have allowed grasses to maintain their exalted garden status... deservedly so.

The first in our series is Helictotrichon sempervirens, or blue oat grass. Averaging 2-3' in height and width, this is a good subject for the mid-section of a perennial bed. In June, flowers emerge and are borne above each clump. Seed heads later turn a pale wheat color, lasting well into fall. As can be seen in today's photos, there is a direct correlation between available sunlight and strong blue foliage color.

Zone hardiness is 4-8, making blue oat grass ideal for New England gardens. This is a grass for well-drained soil, being a native of the dry meadows of Eurasia. It will not thrive in wet areas; in fact, deep watering that soaks the root system, every two weeks, is sufficient. More good news? Never say "never," but deer are not very interested in this plant.

Early spring maintenance involves "combing" through the clump with gloved fingers, removing dead foliage and old seed heads. This procedure maintains a graceful clump. Alternatively, cut back hard in late winter (waiting too long, cutting back in spring, will hinder new growth) as most of the fine foliage will be winter-killed. A spring application of granular, organic fertilizer, worked into the soil, is sufficient to encourage fresh growth. Blue oat grass is relatively free of insect and disease problems. Crown rot, usually occurring in winter, and only in heavy, wet soil, is the biggest concern - again, good drainage is important. Propagation is by seed, transplants and division of mature clumps, every 3-4 years.

Design ideas? Massed on a hillside, bordering walkways, interspersed with annuals and perennials. Coneflower, black-eyed Susan, 'Autumn Joy' sedum, lavender, Russian sage, Caryopteris, purple salvia, pink shrub roses and any plants with burgundy foliage... purple smokebush, Japanese red maples ('Bloodgood', 'Crimson Queen', etc.) - all plants that are an ideal foil for blue oat grass.

Late summer and early fall are prime-time for grass availability at local garden centers. Grasses may be available earlier, but are not that impressive in spring. By now, container-grown specimens have filled out, displaying their mature form, inflorescences and/or seed heads. You're best able, at this point, to determine which ornamental grasses are suitable for your backyard. If conditions are right, consider the blue oat grass.

©Deb Lambert 2007

Monday, September 03, 2007

Coastal Views

Just a little Labor Day weekend cruise around the North Shore of Massachusetts, on a picture-perfect day. If you, like I, were housebound this weekend, you'll appreciate this excursion. The tide is high, the sky is blue and the grasses have mellowed to a wheaten gold. What a lovely way to participate in the glories of early September.

©Deb Lambert 2007

Sunday, September 02, 2007

In Praise of the Ornamental Brassica

Coleslaw? Corned beef and cabbage? True, cabbage, as well as kale, has become an integral part of national and international cuisine. A sturdy vegetable and welcome addition to many a medieval cauldron of stew... at least for the peasants. Rumor has it that royalty turn up its nose at the "coleworts" (Hence, the term "coleslaw?" Methinks quite possibly!) Anyway, cabbages sound a bit more tempting than coleworts (although in early colonial America, they were "coleworts.")

Romans and Egyptians began their legendary banquets by the profillactic consumption of raw cabbage to negate the ill effects of over-imbibing. The cure for a hangover? More cabbage! Kale, too, has a rich history, originating in the Mediteranean region. Vegetables with history of biblical proportions, we gather here today to pay homage to the fashionable side of cabbage and kale.

It's true - this is a "fluff piece" about these members of the Brassica genus. So, let's get on with the botanical Latin, before proceeding any further. Brassica, of course, is a member of that very inclusive mustard family, or Cruciferae (sometimes Brassicaceae). Cabbage, kale, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, radish, Chinese cabbage, collards, rutabaga, turnip, kohlrabi, horseradish, mustard, watercress and wasabi are among the family members.

An impressive family with economically-viable produce, winter vegetables and fresh, leafy greens. Modern times find us still discovering and recognizing the medical importance of this family, particularly in combating cancer. But, the mustard family has its pretty side, as well.

Rock Cress (Arabis), Dame's Rocket (Hesperis matronalis) and Sweet Alyssum (Lobularia maritima) are among the highly decorative family members. They appear as wildflowers and their frequently updated, highly hybridized, cultivars appear in many a refined garden. On the other hand, the less attractive shepherd's purse and peppergrass are probably relegated to wild and waste areas, devoid of redeeming merit in the ornamental landscape (although they get a mention in wild edible references).

But, here before us, we have real cabbage and kale, bred for striking hues and colorful accents. Timing is everything - growers start these crops a bit later, so they'll come into their prime in late summer and fall. In fact, these late-maturing, decorative brassicas are notoriously tough (especially reds and pinks), so they're better for the plant pot, than the stew pot.

And, although availablity at garden centers starts in late summer, it's the cooler weather of autumn that applies the finishing touch. White and cream accents become more pronounced. Shades of red, pink and burgundy deepen to richer hues. Leaves expand, plants attain an impressive size and the ruffled edges of kale leaves become lacier, still. Although annual, cabbage and kale will continue to ornament the fall garden, into early winter, often until the first snow flies.

Besides their obvious charms, of hardiness and rich color, these ornamental brassicas lend a certain architectural element to the fall landscape. They are low, full and the perfect foil for garden mums. You can easily coordinate and contrast the color spectrum of these two, to great effect, in garden bed or pot. Texture is important, here - thick, sturdy foliage with heavy ribbing and veining, make cabbage and kale a fine contrast for the finer-textured, more graceful garden specimens. Plants like fall asters, the aforementioned mums, black-eyed Susan, fountain grass and maiden grass are enhanced by our brassicas. The texture contrast is remarkable.

Problems, culturally speaking? Not many! Keep these brassicas moderately moist, as you would cabbage in the vegetable garden. A weekly application of water-soluble, fish/seaweed fertilizer, applied until the weather turns really cold, keeps plants healthy and vigorous.

Biggest problem and almost a certainty, although an easily controlled certainty? The bright green, imported cabbage worm (the white butterfly is pretty and seeks mustard family members as host plants - some folks, not cultivating cabbage, encourage its presence) does considerable leaf damage, as does the cabbage looper (mature form is a nocturnal brown moth). Both are easily controlled with a dust or spray of Bt, Bacillus thuringiensis, a naturally-occurring bacteria that kills, without harming birds or critters that might feed on a treated pest.

Anyway, get out to that garden center and see what all the fuss is about! Tuck a few ornamental cabbage and kale plants into window boxes, decorative containers and right into the flower bed. Design those fabulous combinations that make the fall garden come alive. Add in a scarecrow, gourds, pumpkins, grasses and perennials. Have fun decorating for fall. This is sort of the suburban equivalent to a harvest celebration... and oh, don't forget ornamental peppers - more on those, next time!

©Deb Lambert 2007

Note: Some "puff piece!" I apologize if this was more than you ever wanted to know about ornamental cabbage and kale. Once again, I got carried away by that "wanting to share information thing" - the downfall of a writer trying to "write tight" and self-edit, but a pleasure for my "inner blogger," with a passion to write. Thanks for dropping by, today!