HOT OFF THE PRESSES...

And ready for your perusal... the April issue of 'Corliss Clips' is posted - all four pages. Enjoy!

DROP-DEAD GORGEOUS!/Or, "Move Over Mallards"

"Drop-dead Gorgeous!"..... An exclamation reserved for well-dressed humans, sporting the finest in fashion. But for an admirer of the extravagant beauty of our natural world, this term is reserved for the most flamboyant of backyard guests. Below you see a case in point. This morning, I witnessed the return of two pairs of Wood Ducks (Aix sponsa). They nested on the shores of Lily Pond last year, so I'm hoping these little ducks (17-20") will resume their residence. I mean, what other duck is worthy of such an accolade?.....

Photo: www.huntingsociety.org
Male Wood Duck

Photo: www.huntingsociety.org
Male and female Wood Duck

Unless it's the little Bufflehead (Bucephala albeola)... a flashy black and white sensation, who returned to the shores of Lily Pond, just yesterday (last season, they stayed for several weeks, but did not nest here). The showy male is accompanied, everywhere he swims, by the darker, more compact female. She sports a white cheek spot and white wing patch. At 13-15" long, these fast-moving ducks are constantly diving (even during yesterday's mini snowstorm) and certainly deserve any compliment I pay them...

Photo: Terry Spivey, USDA Forestry Service, Bugwood.org
Male Bufflehead Duck

Photo: Terry Spivey, USDA Forestry Service, Bugwood.org
Female Bufflehead with ducklings

Needless to say, the appearance of these six ducks is spring's best gift, to date. The resident Mallards are handsome and amusing (and I'm proud of "my" Mallards' behavior and the peace that reigns between all these species), but for now, at least, it's "Move over Mallards and make room for the 'Drop-dead Gorgeous!' "

©Deb Lambert 2008

Care and Feeding of Your Indoor Oasis

"Care and Feeding of Your Indoor Oasis"
Why, even as we anticipate spring gardening, our indoor
gardens continue to bridge that gap between the seasons...
providing an outlet for restless gardeners.
By Deb Lambert

Indoor, or Chinese Hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis) Photo: ©CBI 2007

This is the third article in our indoor plant series. For the basics of plant selection, light, humidity and other tips for success, see my two previous articles... 'Creating an Indoor Oasis' (March 17, 2008) and 'Success with a Smaller Indoor Oasis' (March 19, 2008).

Overwatering is one of the most common causes of plant failure. Providing water, means possessing more than a vague awareness of a plant's preferences. Research the moisture requirements of any new plant, and water accordingly.

Overwatering is all too often, a slow, certain death. It forces vital oxygen from surface roots and once the lower roots become waterlogged and start to rot, death usually follows. Unless the plant is unpotted, the rotted roots trimmed off and much of the soil replaced, the decomposition process continues right up the root mass, even though you have corrected your watering habits.

A plant in low light dries out very slowly, as do plants during extended periods of cloudy weather. Your plant may not need water every Wednesday at 8 a.m., so get used to feeling the soil, and maybe even the weight of the pot, to know when it's time to water. My favorite "moisture meter" is the index finger of my right hand... just become familiar with each individual plant. Often, with larger specimens, it's wise to allow the soil to dry to a depth of 1-2 inches, between waterings. Never leave the pot in standing water, which is reabsorbed, leading to root rot.

Many plants require little, if any, fertilizer from October to March. However, personal experience has proven that a monthly application of an organic solution, which includes fish and seaweed (Neptune's Harvest Organic Fish/Seaweed Blend Fertilizer®) is just right for winter maintenance, without forcing excessive growth during dormancy. Use twice monthly for active plants - African violets, begonias, stock geraniums and Hibiscus are flowering plants that remain active all year 'round.

There are many water-soluble, high-phosphorus, chemical fertilizers (Miracle-Gro®, Peters®, etc.) that are traditionally used, especially for flowering plants, but there's an increasing interest in the organic alternatives, as we cultivate our indoor plants. Organica® offers two other options - 'Plant Nutrition Tablets' (5-5-8, from organic sources/includes microorganisms to nourish the soil) and 'Plant Booster' (3-4-1, liquid blend of fish, kelp and humic acid/stimulates plant growth and development of microorganisms). Make an informed decision about your indoor oasis feeding, then follow package directions.

Remain ever-vigilant for insect problems. Within a few days, several aphids or spider mites can escalate into a full-blown infestation. Aphids, available in a rainbow of colors, congregate on tender, new shoots. Spider mites prefer foliage undersides, as well as the interior growth, making their damage even more insidious. Looking like tiny grains of sand, they'll eventually create webbing throughout the plant. Monitor for mealybug and scale - both sucking insects, as well. Mealybugs are beige or white, setting up housekeeping in cottony nests. Hard-shelled scales are dark brown (busily sucking the life from your plant, beneath their well-armored shell), and are quite hard to detect along bark-covered stems.

Get in the habit of examining your indoor plants, for insect or disease problems, each time you feed or water - it's all about prevention, as it is in our gardens. Sticky residue (dried sap and/or insect excretion) is a red flag... look for the culprit. Another cue is the sooty mold that grows on excreted sap - this is secondary... control the insects, wash off the sooty mold and both problems disappear. Many folks panic, upon discovering the mold, and reach for a fungicide.

Fortunately, true fungus problems on our houseplants are relatively rare. Powdery mildew is the most often encountered disease. Avoid wetting the foliage of sensitive, often hairy-leaved plants, such as African violets and begonias. While insecticidal soap and horticultural oil offer fairly safe solutions for insect control, there is one option that controls both insects and disease. Neem oil, extracted from the Neem tree of India, is an effective insecticide. Neem oil, when extracted from the seed of this tree, controls disease, as well as insects. I have had great results, in the past, with controlling garden pests and diseases. Organica's 'K+Neem' is such an organic, broad-spectrum product.

Do your homework, before investing in new subjects for your indoor oasis. Will they thrive and bring as much delight to the interior, as your hardy plants bring to the exterior, of your home? Plan ahead. Do you have a nice spot, with filtered sun, all picked out for their summer
vacation... perhaps a shaded patio or porch? Stay abreast of the latest varieties, as well as new controls and maintenance techniques. Practice vigilance and prevention. Use that gardener's common sense and you'll have a happy, healthy indoor oasis.


©Deb Lambert 2008

"What's New?"...

1.) The highly acclaimed film, "Metamorphosis of a Monarch Butterfly" is currently playing in this sidebar, to your right.

2.) The short film, "Oh Deer!" is playing over at the 'Corliss Clips' blog.

3.) Now showing at 'Waltzes with Words' is "New England Sunsets"

4.) Held over, by popular demand, "Shutterbug's Slide Show." And don't miss that very short, but sweet, holiday treat "The Easter Bunny Show." These are both playing at 'Shutterbug on Knights Pond.'

So, pop the corn, pour the root beer, sit back and enjoy "movie night!"

American Coot

What a nice surprise awaited me tonight, as I headed down the garden steps. Frenzied activity on the hillside, just on the other side of the fence and bird feeders... a sudden whirring of wings, accompanied by a croaking call - kuk-kuk-kuk - and I watched as four American Coots flew down to Lily Pond and disappeared in the pond-side brush. The mallards sometimes land on this banking, looking for cracked corn and spilled seed, but this is the first time I've seen Coots here. They occasionally frequent a nearby fresh water pond, but not our sizable swamp.

Photo: Courtesy www.weforanimals.com

For more information on this waterbird, go to 'All About Birds' at the Cornell Lab of Ornithology. The flock of resident Mallards wasn't thrilled with their guests. Last I heard, they were waxing vocal, quacking loudly at these unusual visitors. I will be on the lookout for a repeat performance... maybe they'll visit again, soon. Indeed, this is what makes swatting mosquitoes from the swamp, all summer, well worthwhile.

©Deb Lambert 2008

HAPPY EASTER!

An especially Happy Easter, here on the banks of Lily Pond! Those two snow crocus buds, reluctant to open on the first, second or third day of spring, have succumbed to the sun's rays and are in bloom today.

A second reason to rejoice, is the discovery of a clump of striped 'Pickwick' mammoth crocus in full bloom, happy in the radiated warmth from the foundation. Tucked away, in back of the foundation planting, these were my Easter surprise... better than any chocolates or jelly beans... and more highly anticipated. Spring has arrived!

I hope everyone is enjoying a nice day with family and friends!

©Deb Lambert 2008

The First Hopeful Sign!

No, this isn't quite the sight that marked the first day of spring, in my New England garden. This is, however, the purple snow crocus (Crocus sieberi, also 'specie crocus') - the same variety that has made an appearance in the sunniest portion of one garden. I found a grand total of two tightly-budded crocus plants at approximately 3 pm on Thursday, March 20th. Phew! That was close. I became convinced, earlier in the week, that spring would pass by my gardens...

giving me the cold shoulder, lingering in more clement yards. But no, there they were, braving the cold March weather. Today, checking the status of these two harbingers of spring, I discovered the two buds still tightly closed. Just a bit disappointed, I headed back inside, out of the cold, 45 mph winds... no wonder those tender buds had not mustered the courage to unfurl, even on the second day of spring. Maybe the third day of spring will hold a surprise. Meanwhile, I'll be content with this photo... a portend of spring's real arrival. I hope that spring is making her way to your yard, too!

Photo: flowerpictures.net

©Deb Lambert 2008

Success with a Smaller Indoor Oasis

Because we all need, and are looking for, a little bit of this...

Because we all need a stop-gap, between lingering winter and reticent spring. And, because we don't all have a sun room or solarium in which to create an indoor oasis, there are simple steps we can take to extend our season. At least some of that pent-up energy and creativity that all backyard gardeners seem to possess, can be vented in the creation and maintenance of an indoor plant oasis.

Not only will our spirits be lifted by green, growing plants within the living space, but we'll enjoy the health benefits inherent with their cultivation. Increased humidity and the exchange of carbon dioxide for oxygen, will be provided by even a relatively small group of plants. Many gases and pollutants emitted by carpets, drapes and other household furnishings, are removed by such specimens as the pothos and spider plant.

In deciding which plants are appropriate for your home, consider available light, average temperature and proximity to heat sources. While natural light can be supplemented through the use of plant lights, it's best to position plants where they'll receive ideal light, according to their requirements.

Although a hot, south-facing window may scorch the tender foliage of Ficus or Spathiphyllum, it would be ideal for cacti, Yucca, Aloe and other succulents. A low-lit living room wouldn't support a high-light plant such as Swedish ivy, but may be ideal for Chinese evergreen, Aspidistra, Dracena, Pothos, or Spathiphyllum.

Or, maybe you'll choose a Sansevieria for your indoor garden. Its long, tough, semi-succulent foliage is attractively variegated and this strong plant will live just about anywhere. High light, low light, dry soil or dry air are not a problem for this old time favorite, sometimes known as 'mother-in-law's tongue.' Sansevieria and split-leaf Philodendron have provided the interior landcsaping for many a barber shop or doctor's office.

Keep in mind, as you plan your plant groupings and position those plants, that available sunlight varies with the passing of the seasons. While that south-facing window is ideal for Hibiscus and other flowering plants during winter, it's too intense during the summer, at which point they should be moved to an east-facing window, or outdoors to a partly shaded location. By the same token, a window that may provide strong sunlight now, may be shaded during the growing season, as shade trees foliate, changing indoor light dramatically.

The best rule of thumb is never to force the situation: don't insist on cultivating a plant in an inappropriate setting (sound familiar? as in the premise behind planning the exterior landscaping?). I once checked a newly-established Ficus benjamina for a client, only to find it in very low light. Although the living room was moderately bright, the plant was tucked away into a dimly-lit corner. While weak, new growth was sprouting from the tips, so much older foliage had been shed, that this specimen was a skeleton of its former self.

A plant light being installed above the Ficus would certainly help (if run about 10 hours per day), but the ideal situation would have been removing it to bright, diffused sunlight... leaving that corner for the low-light specimens already outlined. Syngonium, with its arrowhead leaves, is available with attractive variegations and is a personal favorite for low and medium light situations.

Another factor to consider with low lightis that soils dry out slowly, making it easy to over-water. As with any plant, it's important not to leave standing water in the saucer, which leads to root rot and other problems. Always fill trays or saucers with small pebbles, set pots atop the stones and excess water drains safely away. You can also add water daily to the stone bed, just below the pot base. Water rises up around the plant as beneficial humidity. Such a constant source of humidity is much more reliable than "spritzing" the foliage with a mister bottle.

With just a little planning, and a bit of research, it's possible to enjoy a scaled-down version of that indoor oasis, we discussed last time. As for spring, and looking for that elusive bud-break, well keep up the search and start those spring garden, as weather permits. Meanwhile, turn those green thumbs brown, tending your indoor gardens!

Photo: FreeDigitalPhotos.net

©Deb Lambert 2008

Creating an Indoor Oasis

Norfolk Island Pine -  Photo/©CBI 2007

"Creating an Indoor Oasis"

There comes a time, after the holiday decorations have been 

dismantled and stored away, when the home's interior seems 

a little bleak and austere.  There comes a second time, near 

the end of bleak and austere winter, when we pine for all things 

green and growing, when we are almost convinced that spring 

has no intention of dancing attendance on our gardens... 

when we long to water, feed, prune, cultivate, propagate, repot 

and otherwise care for plants.  Here, then, is a solution...

By Deb Lambert

While the world beyond the windowpanes remains gray and cold, rain persists and snow is disinclined to leave, lose not your faith in spring's inevitable return.  Your indoor environs can be as green and lush, as your outdoor environs will be, come spring.  There's nothing like an oasis, filled with green, living plants to add warmth and charm to our indoor spaces.

The benefits of cultivating indoor plants exceed the obvious aesthetic value.  Indoor landscaping serves a dual purpose, as does the landscaping surrounding your home, namely, beautification and air purification.  

Exchanging the carbon dioxide we emit for the oxygen we require, a plant-filled environment can be healthy, as well as pleasing.  Many plants, such as Pothos and Spider plants, are very efficient at cleansing the air of chemical compounds, found in carpets, drapes, etc.  Because the air inside can hover at an unhealthful, dry level (and the colder it is outside, the dryer it is inside), the grouping together of plants will necessarily raise the humidity to a healthier level - good for the plants - good for the humans, who tend them.  Also, because we strive to keep the air more humid through the use of humidifiers and humidity trays, we further increase the humidity for ourselves. 

With many folks "staying put" longer within their residences, they're making home improvements, including the addition of small greenhouses, solariums and sunrooms.  Such areas are ideal for the creation of an indoor oasis.  The traditionally high ceilings, which usually include windows overhead, are ideal for the cultivation of the larger, more spectacular foliage specimens.  

Norfolk Island Pine, Schefflera, (Umbrella Tree), Palm, Dracena cultivars, False Aralia and Yucca are all ideal for such a situation.  One of the most impressive indoor subjects is a "standard" Ficus, with 'benjamina' or 'nitida' being two outstanding varieties.  A "standard" is any plant which has been grown on, with constant pruning and training, until it reaches tree form and proportions.  In the case of these naturally tall-growing Ficus, a heavy, smooth-barked trunk develops.  The effect thus created is that of a fruit tree, growing right within your indoor living space.  

Palms offer a lush tropical look, with compound leaves borne on long, arching branches.  Date Palms give large-scale interest.  Their airy, open foliage emerges from a trunk covered with rough, scaly bark.  While there are compact, dwarf varieties, the traditional Umbrella Tree (Schefflera) is another large-scale beauty, with huge, shiny leaves.

If space permits, such an oasis can be rounded out with medium-scale foliage plants.  Schefflera arbicola, Spathiphyllum, Chinese Evergreen (Aglaonema), Dieffenbachia, and fern varieties are just some of the suitable subjects in this mid-size range.  Ivies offer a wide choice of leaf shape and color. Being naturals at climbing or trailing, they lend themselves to hanging planters, as "fillers" planted around the base of larger plants, cascading from shelves or window boxes or trained on any variety of topiary frames.  

The finishing touch for your interior landscape could well be hanging plants, such as ferns, Swedish Ivy, spider plants, Pothos and Fittonia.  Small fountains and water gardens add motion and sound to your oasis, while increasing humidity levels for your specimen plants.  For the very small oasis, table-top fountains are readily available.  

Now, if space and light permit, consider adding a touch of color, with the bold blooms of Hibiscus sinensis, the pastels or strong hues of African violets, the many faces of our beloved Begonias ('Angel Wing', 'Richmond', 'Charm', etc.), Orchids, Bougainvillea, Mandevilla, 'Martha Washington'  or scented Geraniums, Episcia, Streptocarpus, Gloxinia or some of the other flowering specimens, too numerous to mention.  Best bet for more unusual flowering plants, is a smallish, local greenhouse where you can ask questions and poke around to your heart's content - not a bad way to spend a cold, rainy, pre-spring morning.  For the serious plant collector, there's always Logee's Tropical Plants in Connecticut.  I receive their catalog and can only dream of having the space to create such a colorful oasis.

The good news is that you don't need a solarium, although it would be nice, wouldn't it?  A living room, bedroom or home office can be the perfect setting for an oasis.  Yes, indoor gardening can be as simple or involved as you like, but it's the best way I know to survive the long, wet, cold, dreary winter... or the long, wet, cold, dreary nearly-spring season, in which we are, at present, firmly entrenched.  Take your backyard gardening to a whole new dimension with your indoor oasis!               

©Deb Lambert 2008  

BREAKING NEWS - THIS JUST IN...

Six is a nice round number, isn't it? Six eggs, a half-dozen oranges, six blogs... What? Can it be? If you like gardening and reading about gardening, head on over for the latest addition to the 'gardenauthor' blog family. It's a joint effort... well, I won't spoil it for you. This is the first day, so stop by often, to watch it being built and, more importantly, filled with useful information. Click here, to be transported... 'Corliss Clips'

©Deb Lambert 2008

Ricky Raccoon is Back in Town!

Photo: Kevin D. Arvin, Bugwood.org
Full disclosure: This is not 'Ricky,' but a reasonable facsimile,
perhaps an "understudy."

There he was in the pre-dawn, lumbering across my backyard. Startled, as I raised the window sash to hurry him along, he turned into an olympic athlete... scaling a wire fence, jumping down onto the neighbor's lawn, sprinting across the yard, up and over another fence, disappearing down the hill, through the brush and finally, skirting the swamp (Lily Pond).

This siting was actually a bit scary, what you might describe as a close call. Lucy and I had just come in from the yard. It was starting to get light, so I hadn't bothered with the floodlights. Fortunately, Lucy had stayed in another part of the yard, with me. You can have daylight savings time - I want my early, well-lit mornings back! Anyway, my Chihuahua-mix would have been no match for any raccoon, let alone this particular beast.

Given to momentary hyperbole, I later told my mother he was the size of a Buick... OK, maybe a Volkswagon Beetle. Honestly, I see my share of raccoons, with the swamp down back, and I have never seen one this big. He had a gorgeous coat and actually looked fat and healthy. Here comes spring and all the creatures, great and small!

©Deb Lambert 2008

Ruby-Crowned Kinglet

Photo: Johhny N. Dell, Bugwood.org

Ta-dah! After almost a month of trying to identify this tiny bird... success. I'd see her, unexpectedly, on trips to the backyard. Sometimes dining on seed, often clinging to the suet feeder, while a downy woodpecker waited patiently for a turn. Assertive, positive, confident and surprisingly bold, this busy little bird is constant motion, making an ID quite difficult - at least for this backyard birder.

By the time I was back inside, sequestered with my Peterson field guide, relying on my general observations and shaky memory, I found myself trying to make this bird fit into the warbler family. After all, we'd had three warbler species, just last year - new to this area. There were similar colorations and mannerisms, but I was still unsure. The first thing I had noticed was the small size and short tail.

Finally, yesterday, in flipping through the bird book, researching something else, I took a closer look at at the Ruby-Crowned Kinglet. Although the map includes my area in their year 'round range, kinglets have never appeared in this locale, before. I say "she," because I do not observe the scarlet crown patch of the male, although I understand it is often inconspicuous. Either way, so far, I have only seen a single bird... I can only hope that the Ruby-Crowned Kinglet finds this gardener's yard hospitable and stays to raise a family.

Everyday, in the late afternoon, this spunky, gregarious kinglet flutters between the seed and suet feeders, just a couple of feet away. She seems untroubled by my presence, or that of the dog, peering curiously at us, from around the feeder. And everyday, in the face of all this positivity, I lose just a little more of my 'bah-humbug, spring is never coming' attitude.

For more information on this bird, click on Chipper Woods bird Observatory (GREAT PHOTOS!), All About Birds or Bird Watcher's Digest.

©Deb Lambert 2008

Spring Gardening for the Early Bird

"Spring Gardening for the Early Bird"
By Deb Lambert

I don't know about you, but I'm ready to beat my snowshoes into plowshares. Quite a snowy winter, with wildly fluctuating temperatures, at least in this neck of the woods. However, there was just enough frigid weather to encourage and retain a lumpy, tenacious layer of ice on all areas not facing due south. For the past two weeks, refilling bird feeders was accomplished at risk to life and limb. Snow cover is a good thing, as an open winter can be problematic for rhododendrons, azaleas, mountain laurels and other broadleaved evergreens... especially when combined with the strong, drying winds of March. Often, winter damage isn't evident until late March/early April. A light application of anti-dessicant, at about 40-50º, will conserve any remaining moisture within the foliage (normally this is applied in late Nov., and again during the January thaw), making the transition to spring an easier one.

Although the ground starts to thaw nicely under late winter/early spring sun, soil usually remains too wet to be friable (ready for tilling), until a bit later. Lawns, raked too early, are susceptible to damage. Young grass plants and established grass roots, loosened during frost heaves, are easily pulled out by vigorous raking performed too early in the season. For this reason, lawn dethatching may be best postponed until fall, or at least until the ground has thoroughly dried and grass roots have settled down into the soil, once more. Foot traffic and heavy power equipment will squeeze essential air spaces from the soil and cause much root damage. Such compressed soil does not recover, precluding necessary oxygen from reaching roots and limiting moisture absorption, during summer irrigation.

As soils start to dry, winter rye planted last fall, can be turned back into dormant beds as "green manure." Check cold frames, fences, trellises, walkways, walls and compost bins for any damage and make necessary repairs. Hoses should be checked over for weak spots, breaks or damaged couplings. Hose mender kits and couplings are readily available in garden centers and are easily installed on the nylon-reinforced hoses that most of us use. Inspect power equipment such as rototillers, lawnmowers, shredders and trimmers; overhaul, sharpen and repair as needed. Clean, remove rust, sharpen (edgers, spades) and oil wooden handles of garden tools. Oil all moving parts of loppers and pruners, after cleaning and sharpening blades.

Although it's getting late for winter pruning of fruit trees, there's still time to prune blueberries and raspberries. Because the fruit will be borne on last year's wood, only a light annual pruning should be necessary, removing just the older and weaker wood from blueberries. Raspberries have a habit of traveling to surrounding lawn and garden areas, so cut back any wandering growth (and maybe install deep edging material) right now. Older canes that bore fruit last season can be cut back to the ground, which allows for development of new canes in your bed of July-bearing raspberries. Ever-bearing raspberries bear on older (up to 2-3 years) as well as new canes, so trim out older or weaker wood and nip back escaping suckers.

March is also the time to prune wisteria vines. Notoriously stubborn to bloom, winter pruning, combined with early spring feeding (balanced organic fertilizer and superphosphate), will encourage blossom production. Pruning lateral shoots back to 2-3 buds will induce the formation of flower spurs. This procedure should be followed each March - prune vegetative growth as necessary during the growing season.

There's still time to start many flower and vegetable seeds inside. Slower crops, like broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, Chinese cabbage and onions should be started now. These cool-weather crops will be among the first to be transplanted outside, after a hardening-off period, so don't delay much beyond mid-March. There are other cool-weather crops to plant directly outside, weather permitting. Onion sets, peas and spinach can be planted as early as mid-March, depending on temperature and soil moisture - remember, spring in New England is a fickle thing!

As soils begin to dry out, cow manure, compost, lime, garden gypsum (for drainage), rock phosphate, superphosphate and other soil amendments can be incorporated in preparation for this season's crops. If you're in doubt as to the soil's pH (alkalinity/acidity), use a soil test kit or have a professional soil test performed on your lawn and/or garden soil. Avoid chemical, granular plant foods, opting for longer-lasting organic granular fertilizers - better for the soil, environment and gardener! So, enjoy March, as you get the jump on spring gardening in your own backyard!

Oh, keep feeding those hungry backyard birds - at least until insects and natural food sources become plentiful. Mount a few birdhouses, offer nesting material and provide a clean source of water. Be an "early bird" this spring and enjoy the season!

More garden doings at Corliss Bros. Nursery & Garden Center - where I author a monthly newsletter... a good resource for garden info! Check their 'Garden Guide' section.

Deb Lambert ©2008

'Pleasant Under Glass?'

Shutterbug's serving 'Pleasant Under Glass' today... hurry over before it's all gone!

Designing and Maintaining that Seaside Garden

Some of the many reasons that folks
are drawn to seaside retreats, and thence,
to seaside gardening.

As with all well-designed gardens,
winter interest is a key factor, in the design process.
The stark beauty of winter is, perhaps, even more
striking in a seaside landscape.

All Photos ©2004-2007 CBI

Designing and Maintaining that Seaside Garden...
By Deb Lambert

Approach your seaside gardening armed with basic knowledge of coping with the elements, as well as design concepts, and you'll realize success. While the last discussion dealt with warming effects, wind, sand, and sandy soil, there are several other factors to consider before delving into the subject of suitable plant material.

While salt in very small quantities will actually promote vigorous root systems, larger quantities, such as those deposited on the landscape during severe coastal storms, are toxic to plant tissue. Fortunately, salt has an affinity for water - remember how table salt clogged up the salt shaker during humid weather? Salt accumulates in the soil, since after the moisture evaporates, the salt moves about through the soil. Drenching the soil, on a regular basis, with fresh water will leach salt downward and safely away from root zones. Because salt is attracted to water, gardens and lawns subjected to coastal flooding, should be flushed with fresh water as soon as standing sea water has drained away.

Applications of limestone and gypsum are also helpful in repairing damage after severe storms. Garden gypsum (and lime) neutralizes the acidity associated with sea salt, road salt and dog urine spots on lawns. Gypsum opens up heavy soil, improving drainage, but also binds together loose, sandy soils. And, as mentioned last time, the incorporation of compost and other organic material is invaluable in improving texture and the moisture-holding capacity of sandy soil, and should be added, annually. Consider using polymers, especially around new plantings or in window boxes and container gardens. These crystals absorb and retain incredible amounts of water, acting as a reservoir in fast-draining soils, or in times of drought.

What makes some plants better suited for seaside culture than others? Many develop extremely deep root systems as they seek water. Some plants have facilities, like succulent leaves, for storing moisture, while others have protective leaf surfaces to reduce moisture loss. Plants with smooth, protective surfaces are pines, yews, some hollies, yucca and sea holly. Plants like heather and juniper have foliage comprised of small, overlapping scales which affords salt and wind resistance. Silver-leaved plants are protected by the same tiny hairs which give them their grayish coloration. Salt crystals are caught in the hairs, thus protecting the leaf surface. Glaucous plants, those covered with a whitish "bloom," are afforded similar protection, bayberry leaves being a case in point. Often, the fruits or berries of seashore plants are protected with a hard or waxy coating. Buds, too, are protected with hard, shiny surfaces or tiny hairs.

If that seaside site is new to you, observe which plants flourish naturally, see what plants have proven successful for your neighbors, learn about your various exposures and how storms affect them. If you choose your plants wisely, natural windbreaks will prove more successful than fences or large walls. A mixed planting will be more attractive and vigorous, holding the soil with its roots, while framing or accenting the ocean view. Low brick or stone walls will protect low-growing plants from the wind, creating a warm micro-climate - all this without affecting the overall view.

Plants that will survive in the most exposed areas include rugosa rose, black pine, autumn olive, shadbush, Scotch broom, privet, American beach grass, most species of juniper, several species of white oak and white poplar. Plants needing a bit more shelter are little leaf linden, Norway and red maple, beach cherry and plum, purpleleaf plum, flowering crab, Swiss stone pine, willow species, Austrian and Scotch pine, Colorado blue spruce, honeylocust, black locust, London plane and white mulberry.

Having similar preferences are barberry, burning bush (these first two may be on your local 'invasive species' list, so might be unavailable), Japanese holly, inkberry, spirea, rose of Sharon, shrub roses, hydrangea, viburnum, grape, wisteria, highbush blueberry, potentilla and butterfly bush. Many of the ornamental grasses grow well at the seashore, as do groundcovering plants like bearberry, heather, thyme, St. Johnswort, artemisia, yarrow, herbs and creeping junipers.

This is just a thumbnail sketch of seaside gardens, outlining some of the basics. For more in-depth information and expanded plant lists, consult one of the many fine references available at bookstores or at your local garden center.

©Deb Lambert 2008/All ©2004-2007 photos from the photographer's seaside gardens.

ARGHH!

"... Violets are blue..."

The rain stopped, clouds parted and the sun came out! Phew! What a relief... time to get busy, scoop up a bin of last fall's leaves and 'find spring.' And find it, I did. Rolling back fused maple, oak and hosta leaves, like a thick, wet, layer of felt, there it was. A brave little violet plant, waiting patiently for bright sun and soft winds.

I decided this might be fodder for a new post, but alas, my violet has no name. Should have known this would come back to haunt me. A small clump of diminutive, purple-flowered wild violets was a gift from a satisfied client, years ago. She had brought them east, from Oregon, to transplant into her New England garden. She referred to them as 'Oregon violets', when she'd ask how they were faring in my garden. They've done well, but I am determined that today is the day I learn their true botanical identity. Or, not.

No success with online ID resources. Likewise, with the many wildflower guides spread out upon my kitchen counter. I have found every violet known to man, except mine... so the search continues. I may have to wait until they're in bloom, for the answer.

"Roses are red/violets are blue/spring's on the way/scientific names, too! " ARGHH!

©Deb Lambert 2008... Back to the seashore, next time - I didn't forget!

Planning a Garden by the Sea

"Planning a Garden by the Sea"
By Deb Lambert

From ancient times to present, man has striven to beautify the edifices he has erected by the sea. Sometimes the landscape designs are as fanciful and contrived as the buildings they surround. For example, the late 18th century found people seeking the healthful benefits of seaside spas, along the English coast. With architecture borrowed from temples and palaces of other countries, it stands to reason that the exotically landscaped grounds would include features and ornamentation of far-off climes.

There are basic concepts, one might even say precepts, that are as true for gardening by the sea, as they are for gardening far from the water's edge. Whether your tastes in architecture and landscape design tend toward the formal or informal, the basic principles are the same. Landscaping "ties" the house to the ground, bringing the building into harmony with its surroundings. Working with an eye toward the subtle transition from neatly landscaped grounds to natural, adjacent areas, is the common thread running through the creation of all good landscape plans.

If, in the natural landscape, there exists a rugged cliff and breathtaking ocean view, you would not erect a high fence nor would you plant a high windbreak, with the intent of cultivating a variety of plants best left for the woodland garden. You would lose your magnificent view and, most likely, the plants you strove to cultivate. The inclusion of such borrowed views, is of prime importance in any plan. As you include shrubs and trees in the landscape theme, make sure that they will not obscure any panoramic vistas, as they attain their mature height.

The challenge of planning a garden by the sea is probably greater than that faced by many inland gardeners. Working with, and observing nature, is the key to success. While you may enjoy a more moderate climate, enabling you to grow plants not generally cultivated in the general area, the warming effect of the water is not a constant factor. Cold winter winds can prove fatal and many plants will benefit from the protection of burlap and anti-desiccants.

Wind, at any time of year, is a factor to be reckoned with, as it can be one of the most destructive elements with which you deal. It can break branches, tear leaves, nip flower buds before they open and erode the soil that supports your plants. The drying effect of the wind, to both soil and foliage, is a constant problem. Sand, blown about by the wind can be even more detrimental, as it abrades leaves and bark, sometimes burying plants.

The soil for your seaside garden may be sandy or gravelly, possibly containing shell particles, high in calcium. The lack of calcium, or lime, can have the same effect as an over-abundance of calcium. Soil nutrients already present, as well as those that you apply in the form of fertilizer, become locked up and are not utilized by the plants. Soil tests are indispensable, in judging what additives and nutrients are essential for future success.

Compost, composted manure, peat moss, peat humus and finely ground, composted bark are all invaluable additives, to improve the texture and fertility of sandy soils. With such well-drained soil, roots are not likely to rot and there is less chance of frost-heave damage. Ledge is often a factor in seaside gardening, and will greatly affect your selection of plant material. It usually presents us with a shallow soil layer that causes plants, especially turf grasses, to dry suddenly from accumulated heat.

If you garden by the sea, drop by next time, for more tips and suitable plant material.

©Deb Lambert 2008/Photo ©CBI 2008

Sunny visions of May, over at Shutterbug's today...

For Koi, goldfish and a sunny garden pool, CLICK HERE!

YELLOW-RUMPED WARBLERS ARE BACK!

Both photos ©Johnny N. Dell, Bugwood.org

A bit premature, perhaps, but the yellow-rumped warbler (Dendroica coronata) has returned. Last year, late winter/early spring found me all agog at the spectacle of a sizable flock of these little warblers. They stayed in this area for about 3-4 weeks and I never noticed them again, for the rest of the season.

This morning, as I filled feeders and waited for the dog to secure her perimeter fences, a small, flitting bird caught my eye. A shy, solitary female, was trying to pluck up enough courage to enter through the protective wire of a squirrel-proof feeder. A glance from the window, later on, revealed that she was, indeed, dining on birdseed.

What first alerted me to their arrival last season, was the quick, darting flight and constant activity. Because of this, they were hard to identify, initially. But, once I noticed those flashes of yellow, I was able to positively identify the yellow-rumped warbler.

I have never seen warblers in our area, until last year, when I actually identified three distinct species. The black-and-white and black-throated warblers were observed shortly after the yellow-rumped warblers, with only the black-throated staying to nest and use the birdbath for much of the summer. The Eastern Kingbird was another new visitor to my yard and they went absolutely wild over the fruit of my pagoda dogwood.

What a joy, on a cold and snowy morning, to observe that sweet, shy little bird. I'll be on the lookout for the rest of the yellow-rumped warblers, as well as any new species that care to drop by. These days, with rapidly shrinking habitat, a large swamp with hills, trees and shrubs, right in the middle of suburbia, probably passes for a wildlife preserve. And so, I shall continue to garden responsibly with low-impact solutions, that encourage the presence and assistance that wild birds provide... and, yes, I'll enjoy the spring show!

If you haven't already discovered this website, check it out... "Birds of North America" at whatbird.projectwildbird.org has many great features, offering numerous ways to key out any bird in question, a nice companion to a good field guide (I'll never give up my Peterson's Guides!) Have fun out there, seeking new backyard birds.

©Deb Lambert 2008