Saturday, April 26, 2008

Manchurian Azalea and Weeping Cherry

More visions of spring...

Manchurian Azalea / Azalea mucronulatum*
This deciduous azalea flowers before the foliage emerges
and matures at 6' high x 5-6' wide.

Snow Fountains Weeping Cherry/ Prunus x 'Snofozam'
8-12' high x 10-12' wide. Graceful, cascading branches
with interesting mounded structure. A profusion of
single white blooms in early spring. Vigorous foliage.
Great structure for the winter garden, as well.
(Sometimes listed as a cultivar of Prunus x yedoensis
or P. subhirtella) May be grafted to the glossy,
reddish trunk of Prunus serrula.


*A concerned reader emailed a comment - a reminder that Manchurian Azalea is properly known as Rhododendron mucronulatum... consider yourself reminded. For our purposes, as a supplement to the Corliss catalog, I think "azalea" will do... otherwise, we'd have quite a bit of confusion.

A Valuable Link: For all things azalea, we have an interesting, informative link to the web site of William C. Miller lll, member of both the Azalea Society of America and the American Rhododendron Society. Click on The Azalea Works Home Page for great information and scroll down to "The Azalea Works Images" for his wonderful photography of azaleas and other flora, as well as fauna... Enjoy! Additional Note: Mr. Miller recommends a visit to the Azalea Society of America web site for lots of images- you'll love the photo gallery!

Update: For a link to the American Rhododendron Society, local NH chapter, go to the comments section of this post and read Rosebay's comment - complete with link.

©Deb Lambert 2008
Photos: ©CBI 2008 (by Deb Lambert)

Friday, April 25, 2008

Magnificent Magnolias

Magnolia is star of the spring flower show!

Magnolia stellata 'Royal Star' / Royal Star Magnolia
A double-flowered Star Magnolia reaching
10-20' high x 10-15' wide. Shrubby when young,
with a rounded outline at maturity. Hardiness and
fragrance are also key to this magnolia's popularity.
Thrives in sun to part shade.


Magnolia stellata / Star Magnolia
The narrow petals and single flowers give this magnolia
its star-shaped blooms. It retains a broad, shrubby habit
as it attains a mature size of 10-20' high x 10-15' wide.
For sun to part shade.


Magnolia x loebneri 'Leonard Messel'
Leonard Messel Magnolia
A cultivar, whose parentage includes Magnolia kobus
and M. stellata
. The former, Japanese native, gives it
increased hardiness (M. kobus is listed at Zone 4,
sometimes into Zone 3, hardiness) and a more pleasing
rounded form. The pink to fuchsia blossoms have
the typical stellata form, but the color and subtle
shading are what attracts most gardeners.
Matures at 15-20' high x 20-25' wide.
This one's a real knockout!


©Deb Lambert 2008
Photos: ©CBI 2008 (by Deb Lambert)

Just a Few More Pieris Specimens

The abundance of Andromeda...

'Spring Snow'

'Mountain Fire'
4-6' high x 4-5' wide. Lush green foliage.
Fiery red new growth for extended color.
Graceful flower clusters.

'Compacta'
4-6' high x 4-6' wide. Dense, compact form of the species
with smaller leaves and heavier flowering in March and April.
Drought tolerant, once established.

'Purity'
4-5' high x 6-7' wide. Extremely dense and round habit.
Upright white flowers. Perfect green foliage.

'Valley Rose'
6' high x 4-6' wide. Deep green foliage.
Pastel pink flowers. Somewhat open habit.

'Valley Valentine'
5-6' high x 5-6' wide. Deep red flower buds turn
to deep pink flowers. Shiny, dark green foliage.

To view the previous Pieris posting, scroll back to April 20th,
or click here... "The Andromeda Strain"

©Deb Lambert 2008
Photos: ©CBI 2008 (by Deb Lambert)

Wednesday, April 23, 2008

Spring, Glorious Spring!


Time for a backyard stroll...

Light the drab corners of our yards with
the luminescence of Forsythia yellow.

Carpet our spring walkways with Chionodoxa blue.

Tint our flower beds with glistening white,
washed with the delicate blue of Pushkinia.

Ah... spring, glorious spring!


©Deb Lambert 2008
Photos: ©CBI 2008

Sunday, April 20, 2008

The Andromeda Strain

Just a quick glimpse of the Pieris hybrids (aka Andromeda) having an early spring fling. The first of the broadleaved evergreens to blossom, Pieris is valued for its early displays, light fragrance and resistance to deer damage. Tolerant of shade and varying amounts of sun, it is not tolerant of wet, poorly drained soils. While many of the hybrids have a naturally dense growth habit, a light shearing or hand pruning, as soon as flowers fade, will enhance that effect and ensure an even floral display next year.

'Avalanche'

4-5' high x 4-5' wide. Dense compact habit with a profuse
spring display of white flowers that obscure the plant.

'Brouwer's Beauty'

4-6' high x 4-6' wide. Dense foliage and abundant clusters
of fragrant white flowers. New growth lemon-yellow.
Hardy and reliable.

'Cavatine'

3-4' high x 3-4' wide. Unusual upright green buds which
open to a white explosion of blooms. A dense butterball
of dark green foliage. Tough and hardy.
Does well in full sun.

'Dorothy Wycoff'

5-6' high x 4-6' wide. Deep pink buds during winter.
Blush pink to white flowers in spring. Compact.

'New Red' (named for the bright red coloration
of new growth, following blossoms, extending the season)

©Deb Lambert 2008
Photos ©CBI 2008 (photographer Deb Lambert)

Tuesday, April 15, 2008

Spring Carpets and a Follow-Up on Air Layers




The above photos represent 4/5 of the spring carpet I'm currently enjoying... striped snow crocus, pushkinia (pale blue with darker blue veining), lavender snow crocus, chionodoxa (deeper blue than shown) and scilla or Siberian squill (Scilla siberica, intense indigo color - no photo available). These are all jumbled together in a wonderful mix, having long ago abandoned their original positions. Left alone, they'll procreate by seed and bulb, until you have a lush spring carpet. Sprinkle a little granular, organic fertilizer across the bed as soon as blooms fade, and water it into the soil. They'll pull all these nutrients back into the bulbs, as the foliage dies back, for an even denser carpet next year.

As a follow-up to my article of April 3rd, "Propagating the Indoor Oasis," it has been brought to my attention that a video or photos would be helpful. As I am sans any camera, I searched around for suitable illustrations of air layering and found this site to be quite informative, with good line drawings... aggie-horticulture. It covers similar methods of wounding the stem, as well as the rest of the process. The important step left out is the splinting of the stem (as I described), to prevent the stem from snapping off at the wound site.

©Deb Lambert 2008
Photo Credits: #2 & #4, ©CBI 2008 / #1 & #3 FreeDigitalPhotos.net

Wednesday, April 09, 2008

Jeepers, Peepers!

Photo: David Cappaert, Michigan State University, Bugwood.org

At last - the sound I've been anticipating for lo, these many nights... Spring Peepers! Rambling around during Lucy's 'last outies' for the day, I heard one weak, tentative peep. Twice more, was the call repeated. After the fourth chirp, there came an answering peep. Although there were some long, awkward pauses in the conversation, communication was established and as I closed the door for the evening, I was comforted by the reassurance of two tiny frogs, that spring has indeed arrived!

©Deb Lambert 2008

Thursday, April 03, 2008

Propagating the Indoor Oasis

"Propagating the Indoor Oasis"
This is a continuation of the indoor oasis series,
the first two installments of which,
were posted on March 17th and 19th.
By Deb Lambert

Depending on your locale, you may very well be engaging in the first gardening chores of the season, while continuing to tend that indoor oasis. It's often at this point, that overgrown indoor specimens demand our attention.

Rather than severe pruning that leaves unsightly stumps, or treating such large-scale prunings as cuttings (a risky proposition, at best), consider performing an air layer. While some of the larger foliage plants with which we accent our home interiors, may have become overgrown and leggy, this becomes the ideal way to handle the pruning. At the same time, we gain a young, healthy, well-rooted plant to add to our collection or give to a gardening friend.

An air layer is a method of inducing the top portion (one or several stems may be air layered at the same time) of the plant to produce roots, while still receiving sustenance through its root system. Suitable specimens for this method of propagation are schefflera, dracena, yucca and ficus, including weeping fig and rubber plant. At a point where the main stem is still somewhat green, usually about 10-20 inches back from an actively growing tip, is the best place to attempt an air layer. Select an area immediately below a leaf or leaf scar. Place a small bamboo stake (about one foot long) alongside the area to be cut and secure it, above and below, with twist ties. This will act as a splint, preventing the air layer from snapping off before it's rooted.

The materials you need for this operation include long-fibered sphagnum moss (soaked in warm water), rooting hormone powder, artist's paint brush, a sharp knife, plastic wrap and more twist ties. Make your incision, at the aforementioned point, along the stem. There are two acceptable methods of cutting into the stem. Girdling the entire stem, by cutting into the inner wood, will often stimulate root production. The other way, which I've found most successful, is to cut out a notch on one side of the stem, which extends about 1/3 of the way into the inner wood. This becomes a very weak point, which is why that "splint" was so important.

With a small brush, dust the cut surfaces thoroughly with the rooting powder. This will hasten root production and guard against possible fungus problems. After wringing excess moisture from the long-fibered moss, pack it into the cut and form a ball of sphagnum around the area. Wrap the ball with plastic, tying off above and below with twist ties.

Check the moss several times weekly for moisture, sprinkling lightly, if needed, then replacing the top tie. After about six weeks, you should notice small, white roots expanding into the moss ball. Your new plant should be ready to stand on its own. Sever it just below the moss, remove the plastic and pot it in a loose, well-drained potting soil, adding a small stake for stability.

The stump you leave behind can be re-trimmed to a more appropriate point, just above a leaf or leaf scar, from which new growth will eventually emerge. December-March are ideal months to attempt an air layer. If you wait until indoor plants become more active, in April/May, the incision may heal over quickly, without ever producing roots. I've experienced this several times, while trying to root a rubber plant.

By making an incision, you literally shock the plant into trying to propagate itself, and so, roots are produced. While actively growing, the sap flows freely and the plant's ability to heal a mechanical injury is greatly increased; hence, the increased failure rate of air layers performed on indoor plants, during the growing season. However, an air layer can be a very successful way of propagating some of our woody ornamentals in the spring... rhododendrons and azaleas respond well.

Soil layers (also suitable for woody ornamentals... more about these, next time), cuttings and seed starting are the other means at hand for increasing and propagating our favorite plants, and for maintaining an attractive indoor oasis. Get the whole family involved in these fascinating projects.

©Deb Lambert 2008