Forcing Paperwhite Narcissus and Hyacinth Bulbs for an Indoor Flower Show

This the third part of our three-part series on forcing bulbs for indoor culture.  (Part 1 was "Amaryllis ~ Choosing, Prepping & Planting the 'Queen of Bulbs'.”  Part 2 was "Forcing Dutch Bulbs ~ A to Z" ~ Click on  "Forcing Spring!" )

Now, let's explore the options when you're about to coax paperwhite narcissus and hyacinth bulbs into producing fragrant blooms to grace the holidays and beyond.

Paperwhite Narcissus ~ bulb selection...

First, choose firm, top-quality, top-size bulbs... most of 

which will produce at least two flower clusters, often more.

Choosing a few extra bulbs to store away for later forcing, will expand the length of your indoor flower show.  Start a few new bulbs every 2-3 weeks, for a continual display.  A word about storage ~ Storing your paperwhites in the fridge, to hold them for later planting, sends up one red flag.  Cool, dark storage at about 40º is fine; however, storing your bulbs near ripening fruit in the fridge may actually kill the flower bud, already formed within the bulb or it may emerged deformed from the ethylene gasses produced (pineapple and apples are some of the biggest producers of this gas).  The fridge is not an ideal way to delay any bulbs, because of this issue, so at least have them as far away from fruit as possible.  I would choose another cool spot for storage.  We hold our bulbs back by storing them in a warehouse that stays around 40-45º, and not below freezing.  Maybe you have a spot that provides similar temps?

Perfect for your own indoor display or for gifting.

Speaking of gifts, conveniently packaged bulbs like these 

make shipping very easy, with everything included.

Let's start by supposing that you're forcing those bulbs

in water.  First you need an anchor...

What stone you choose is a matter of personal preference... 

any such material merely serves as an anchor to hold the 

bulbs in place above the water.

Any fairly shallow, water-tight bowl is appropriate.

Many ceramic vessels have glazed interiors, 

making them an elegant, ideal choice.

Even wide, curvaceous glass vases work well.  You might 

even decide on a hyacinth glass for individual bulbs. 

Perhaps you'll raid the kitchen cabinets 

and find the perfect bowl!

A reminder:  Rinse off any dust or sand 

clinging to your chosen medium.

Place the rinsed gravel in your bowl, leaving room for 

the bulbs and a little more gravel.

Place the bulbs closely together and top-dress with

a few stones to keep them in place.

Now, add and maintain a water level that barely 

reaches the bulb bases.

Here's a bowl planted about two weeks previously...

And, here we see it about a week later... starting to bud 

and produce foliage.  It usually takes about 4-6 weeks 

(about 4 if they've started sprouting) from potting to bloom.

Just be sure to maintain that constant water level.

You may choose to start your paperwhites in 

a shallow bulb pan, like that on the right.

The plastic bulb pans, on the left or center, 

are also appropriate for forcing paperwhites in soil.

If it's clay you've chosen, soak the pot 

until the point of saturation.

Start with about an inch of drainage stone, then add 

a layer of well-drained potting soil.

As with those tulip bulbs we potted previously, 

have the bulb noses at the soil surface.

Finish filling with soil, water and keep moist in a cool spot... keep them in filtered light, or even under fluorescent lights until leaves and flower buds start to show... move to a brighter spot, but not direct, hot sun, or the blooms will quickly fade.  Grow them along after flowers fade, keep watering (adding liquid fertilizer) until the foliage dies back.  Stop watering.  Put the entire pot away in a dark, cool spot until spring.  There often not hardy for this area, but nothing ventured... nothing gained!  Come spring, plant them as a cluster in a sunny, well-drained garden in a sheltered area.  I have a gardening friend who does this each year and they've naturalized along a sheltered woodland border.  If your paperwhite narcissus bulbs survive, they probably won't bloom until the second year.  You can try to replant paperwhites forced in water... if they survive outside, they'll skip the first year of bloom (they've been under more stress and normally not much nutrient value has been provided before they die back).

Hyacinths and other bulbs may be packaged like these attractive bowls, complete with stones, to be forced in water.  They have usually been "prepared" by pre-cooling.

If you're planning to force hyacinths in water, suspend the bulb over water in a typical hyacinth glass, fill with water to just below the bulb base and maintain that level.  They should be kept at about 40º in a dark place, until roots fill the vase and the top is about two inches high.  Make a gradual transition from the cool, dark area to a sunny spot in a living room, etc., over the course of 3-4 days. When budded, move back from direct sun to bright, diffused light to extend the flowering period.  If you purchased pre-cooled bulbs, they'll take about 10 weeks from planting to bloom.  If not pre-cooled, closer to 13 weeks.

Alternatively, place multiple bulbs in a bowl of pebbles, maintaining a water level that does not quite touch the base of bulbs... same principle as forcing paperwhite narcissus bulbs in water... but, follow the temperatures, timing and locations outlined above.  To save the bulb for spring planting, allow the foliage to die back, trim it off and store the bulb at 35-40º in sand until spring and plant outdoors (adding bulb food)... it will be another year (sometimes 2) before it blooms (forced bulbs cannot be re-forced), but may throw up a little foliage, which is then allowed to die back.

If forcing hyacinths [tulips, daffodils and most minor bulbs are forced in this same manner] in soil, choose a shallow bulb pan.  Add a layer of drainage stone and a layer of well-drained potting soil. Place the bulbs atop the soil.. they can actually touch, for a full display.  Finish adding soil, allowing space to water.  The bulb noses will be at, or just below, the soil surface.  They need a dark spot with temps of 35-40º.  Keep them lightly moist.  A bulkhead or unheated garage may meet these requirements.  It takes about 10-12 weeks for the rooting period.  By then, you'll probably notice sprouts showing.  Over the course of several days, move them to a sunny window and when buds begin to show, move them out of direct sun to prolong flowering.  After blooms fade, water and feed until the foliage dies back and store away in a shed or garage until spring... plant outdoors in early spring.  They will probably bloom the next year, since you've fed them after the bloom period.  Like bulbs forced in water, they cannot be forced a second year.

Have fun creating your indoor flower show!

Text/Photos: © Deb Lambert 2010