Potting Specimen Evergreens

Potting Specimen Evergreens...

(in which I add to my movable landscape)

The view from my front door on this sunny October day, when
I was about to tackle an enormous potting project.

Arborvitae, Japanese holly, pots, soil and all the supplies
in readiness, a few days before Halloween.

Because much of this portion of my yard is covered with
pavers, I've come to appreciate the versatility that potted
evergreens and container gardens offer in such an area.
Pots, potting soil and drainage gravel await.
Unfortunately, they continued to wait for about another
month, while life (and Halloween) intervened.

"The best laid plans" ~ It was November 23rd before the
potting project went forward.  Two 'Emerald Green' Arborvitaes.

Two Japanese hollies (Ilex crenata)...

'Green Luster' - one more heavily berried than the other.

Two burgundy fiberglass pots for the arborvitaes and two
raspberry colored, heavy plastic pots for the hollies.

Good width and substantial depth will accommodate the Arbs
for quite some time!  Want a good chuckle about planning ahead?
My first attempt at potting arborvitaes did not end well ~ scroll
down to the end for the explanation!*

First, I place about 4" of pea stone in the bottom for drainage,
after placing clay shards over the large drainage hole.

Choose a well-drained potting soil, rich in organic
matter, so plants will thrive.  I favor this 'Bar Harbor Blend'
from Coast of Maine® for most of my potting projects.

Peeking inside the bag, we see a rich, crumbly mix.

A minor "tweak" will be to incorporate additional perlite
to enhance the long-term drainage, especially with such
large pots, placed directly on the pavers.

Probably about 4 parts soil to 1 part perlite.

Blend thoroughly.

Give it the squeeze test ~ it should be friable... that fistful
of soil should readily crumble apart, when you release your grip.

Final "tweak?"  A scoop of an my organic fertilizer blend**
comprised of Plant-tone, rock phosphate, greensand and
kelp meal (equal quantities, by volume)

After a liberal sprinkle across the soil,

I blend in this non-burning, organic plant food combo.

Gauge the rootball depth and start backfilling, tamping down
the soil to eliminate any air pockets.

Remove the arborvitae from its nursery can and assess the
depth, adjusting by adding or removing soil, if indicated.

Loosen the roots along the sides and bottom of the root mass,
before setting it back in the pot.

Before backfilling around the rootball, check that the
tree is straight, when viewed from all angles.

Just as with in-ground planting, do not set the tree any deeper
than it was in the nursery pot.  Leave enough head space to
accommodate watering.  Water thoroughly when finished.

Here we have a properly planted pair of 'Emerald Green'
Arborvitaes... ready to frame the entrance for the
holiday season and all during the bleak winter, beyond.

Now, onto the 'Green Luster' hollies...

No drainage holes, so drilling a number of holes and adding
a 3" layer of drainage stone is the first step.  Add a layer of
blended potting soil (same mixture as for the arbs), pressing
out air pockets and check the rootballs on these
container-grown specimens.

A tight rootball, which needs to be addressed, as before.

With fingertips, or a hand cultivator, tease apart the outer
roots, along the sides and base of the root mass.  These
loosened roots will soon proceed to become established
in the new potting mix.

As before, set at the proper depth, allowing head space
for watering, backfill and firm the top layer.
Water thoroughly.

All done ~ time to admire the handiwork!

All set for the holidays, as of December 9th.

Potted Dwarf Alberta Spruce in the background.

For the past eight years, I have cultivated a pair of
Dwarf Alberta Spruce in heavy-duty plastic pots... no spider mites
(a commonproblem of these trees), thanks to regular applications
of Neptune's Harvest fish/seaweed blend during the growing season.

Note: Garden centers will not guarantee nursery stock grown in containers, because of the inherent stresses associated, especially during winter.  However, for those of us with limited sun and limited tillable land, it is often worth the risk and most definitely presents seasoned gardeners with a new venue and a whole new set of challenges.  With proper planting, positioning and maintenance, containerized evergreen gardens can be wildly successful and an eminently satisfying pursuit for the determined gardener.  [Ceramic, terracotta and certain porous pots are not meant for winter display ~ plastic, resin, fiberglass, wood, rugged metal, granite and most concrete containers are suitable for year 'round display.] 

Let us close with a little gratuitous late November color from
foliage and berries of my Cotoneaster horizontalis 'Purpusilla'.

* Full disclosure ~ Eight years ago, I potted two Dark American Arborvitaes in these attractive urns.  File this under "What was I thinking?"  The roots eventually grew into the hollow base and their was no way to move them.  They could not be saved... we tried everything!  Well, at least we saved these double-walled resin urns.  Of course, it'll be several years before the roots and stumps decompose enough to be removed.  A good case of "Do as I say, not as I do!"  Be careful when you choose decorative containers for those trees and evergreens. 

One last note... all the above plants are from Corliss Bros. Garden Center & Nursery in Ipswich, MA... and while Corliss has an excellent pot selection, these "winter hardy" pots are just a collection of containers gathered from various other sources... sort of "in the moment"/impulse purchases.  However, all my "non-hardy," burgundy ceramic pottery came from Corliss... I'm pretty sure I have at least one sample of everything we carry... nice summer accents with my burgundy shutters ~ currently on display in my kitchen windows!

** Euphemistically referred to as "Deb's Magic Mix" by some of our "Saturday Sessions" students.