GardenAuthor

Therefore, be it Resolved…

2012-01-08T09:24:00.002-05:00

An open resolution presented by gardeners to Mother Nature, as we supplicate this force of nature at the commencement of a new growing season. We present this resolution in the vain hope that she will thoughtfully consider our earnest entreaties and intercede on our behalf with the powers that be. Barring that response, we may consider this, at the every least, a logical arrangement of the organized chaos that afflicts contemplative gardeners each January.

Title of Resolution/Recommendation:
“Arbitrating the 2012 Growing Season”

WHEREAS, this is the dormant season for gardens and gardeners, and

WHEREAS, we have packed away the holidays and provided songbirds with sustenance, and

WHEREAS, the tending of our indoor gardens reminds us of green things to come, and

WHEREAS, we now review and reflect upon the season just past, now, therefore, be it

RESOLVED, That we now gather, stating the merits of our case to Mother Nature, coming before her in virtual committee to present our petition.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

WHEREAS, this is New England and anything is possible/probable, and

WHEREAS, even the kitchen sink cannot be ruled in or out come spring, and

WHEREAS, we are lulled into complacency by this mild winter, and

WHEREAS, the foregoing truths are easily sculpted in a way that pleases each individual gardener, leaving each to reach his own conclusion, now, therefore, be it

RESOLVED, that although we are thinking, reasoning beings, possessed of Doppler Radar and The Farmer’s Almanac, we are not seers nor possessed with powers to clearly pinpoint the intricacies of the 2012 season. So, we assemble in committee to solidify our collective resolve to succeed as never before, despite New England’s capriciousness.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

New England reality:

The best-laid plans of mice and

gardeners often go awry.*

Vague, nebulous, imprecise, never more than an approximation ~ terms that may best describe the art and results of garden planning. From the depths of your January armchair, you are all about the “big picture.” From planning and seed starting to waging the battles of a torrid July, you are assured of success with those edibles and ornamentals. Or, are you? Predicting or (better word) projecting what a brand new growing season holds in store is a diaphanous affair, at best. However, just imagine if we never took time for that overview!

Baseball analogy?: Put into the parlance of America’s pastime, garden strategy might look something like this ~ Each year we buy and trade, constantly seeking new prospects/new recruits to improve the home team… showier beds, tastier crops that outperform expectations. During the wet and mud of late winter/early spring, we are not in some warm clime, but right here slipping and sliding our way toward that rarity of rarities (fingers crossed)… a real spring! So, we warm up by cleaning and oiling tools, sketching plans, weighing the merits of new prospects, and releasing to free agency last season’s non-performers. A gardener’s spring training starts now and is filled with the same angst and trepidation experienced by that rookie in training camp. Let’s put a new spin on the season with a well developed game plan.

Ambiguous, nonspecific, amorphous, an inexact science. And, let’s be clear… although gardening may be your vocation, avocation or lie somewhere betwixt the two, it is most definitely a science… and that is the one precise, clear truth that shines through. So, a well-informed gardener is a well-armed gardener and the pursuit of knowledge has never been more worthwhile than in this case. This, our dormant season, is the perfect time for an annual expansion of our horticultural knowledge base.

Quotations, Phrases & Idioms, as applied to garden planning ~
Or, leaving you with a smile...

It’s been said, “ a little learning is a dangerous thing.” ** I have found this to be true of life in general, and of horticulture, in particular. It is when I am possessed of only partial knowledge that I come away with “the wrong end of the stick,” needing to regroup and reeducate before carrying on with a project.

'Like nailing Jell-O to the wall'… “Describes a task that is very difficult because the parameters keep changing or because someone [Mother Nature?] is being evasive.” ***

“It goes without saying.” Means that a statement should be generally understood or accepted and although this would seem to be a stand-alone phrase, we seldom leave it alone, utilizing it for emphasis and to introduce salient points on a particular topic. “It goes without saying that the one word description for spring in New England is ‘fickle.’ ”

“And now, someone who needs no introduction…” At which point we proceed to provide an introduction. Example: “And now, someone who needs no introduction ~ Mother Nature!”

“Thrill of the hunt”…”The idea that once something has been achieved or captured, one loses interest in it. Chasing after it was more satisfying than actually having it.” Well, let us not embrace this mindset!

Let us wish each other well,

as we rise to the exciting
possibilities and challenges

of a brand new season!

*Adapted from a line in “To a Mouse,” by Robert Burns: “The best laid schemes o' mice an' men / Gang aft a-gley.”

**AUTHOR:Alexander Pope (1688–1744) Attribution: Essay on Criticism. Part ii. Line 15.

***Want a giggle? Click here to arrive at http://www.jellotime.com/ (aka “Virtual Jello”) and run your cursor over the image (as often as needed to repeat the results)… maybe I’m easily amused, but this is neat!

©Deb Lambert 2012

Bibliophiles ~ Unite!

2011-12-09T03:52:00.000-05:00

[Scroll down to the end of this article for an important
update about this season's BOOK SALE! *]

What a concept! Curling up in the big comfy chair with a cup of hot chocolate and a book... Yes, an actual book! Not powered by batteries... you hold the book, turn your own pages... you are in total control of its operation. Books have no backlit screens, but are meant to viewed by the glow of your favorite reading lamp.

A book is something to be savored, to be discussed with friends, to add to your knowledge base and perhaps loaned to a relative. It's a tactile experience, as well. From the rough, pebbly texture of recycled paper to the cool, slick, glossy pages of an expensive coffee table book or serious reference work, books are like catnip to the inveterate bibliophile.

Whether you seek the newest reference, hot off the press, or enjoy the rigorous challenge of the hunt when searching for older titles, there is something so satisfying in the final acquisition. Now, if you happen to be an avid gardener, as well as a bibliophile, your already groaning bookshelves will attest to your addiction and there seems to be no satiating your quest for garden wisdom. And, that's a bad thing?

This particular post will do absolutely nothing, as you press forward to control those addictive tendencies - well, that's not quite true - it will probably lead to the development of gift lists, "wish lists" and the building of bookshelves, as you seek to slake the thirst for knowledge (garden & otherwise) of yourself and your gardening friends.

Let's go for a stroll through the Ipswich, MA bookshop, located in a quiet corner of the garden store at Corliss Bros. Garden Center & Nursery.....

No bookshelf is complete without several garden encyclopedias.

As invaluable to the seasoned plantsman,
as they are to the new gardener

Personal pick... for the serious perennial gardener ~
A useful aid in ID, as well... this book is to perennials
what Michael Dirr's "Manual of Woody Landscape Plants"
is to our ornamental landscape specimens!

And speaking of Michael Dirr, these are three of his substantial
reference tomes that we keep in stock almost constantly.
(Dare we say that this professor is the "rock star" of the plant
world?) His work within the field is unparalleled, all his
advice is spot-on and his pithy, at times humorous,
opinions not to be missed!

William Cullina ~ Currently Bill is
the Director of Horticulture/Plant Curator for
one of North America's newest and most
exciting public gardens, The Coastal Maine
Botanical Gardens in Boothbay, Maine. A
well known author and recognized authority on
North American native plants, Cullina lectures
on a variety of subjects to garden and
professional groups and writes for popular and
technical journals. His books include, Wildflowers,
Native Trees, Shrubs, and Vines (currently in stock),
Understanding Orchids, Native Ferns,
Mosses, and Grasses, and most recently,
Understanding Perennials, published in 2009.

These two books are must-haves for the serious gardener,
bent on doing some backyard sleuthing and diagnostic work
on the diseases and insects that may affect our woody
ornamentals. While it's always a good idea to seek a second
opinion from garden center professionals, when performing
such diagnostic tasks, these reference books are a great
jumping-off point.

And, while they don't make for light reading,

you'll find yourself increasingly engrossed in the

natural world and how it affects your prime specimens.

"Botanical Latin 101" ~ Learn to speak it like a native!
Learn definitions and the amazing relationships between
some of your favorite plants.

Don't just ID the problem, but find sound solutions to
what bugs you in the backyard!

We have trouble with this reference from UMass ~
trouble keeping it in stock, that is! The best pictorial ID
of local pests and weeds, that we've seen in many a year!

Difficulty growing lawns? Looking for some commonsense
solutions? Looking to cultivate an organic turf? Look to
"The Organic Lawn Manual" by Paul Tukey for all the basics!
We also carry lawn books from Scotts, Ortho and
Jerry Baker.

Backyard birder? Some of our preferred books on the
topic... great for the quick ID of an individual species, or
for settling back in a cozy chair, while the cold winds howl,
to learn the habits and preferences of familiar birds.

"Fandex" butterfly and bird guides - ID at a glance and learn
the basics... fun for "children" of all ages ~ toss them in your
day pack and go or a hike, or keep them by the picture window
for those quick ID emergencies!

Peterson Wildlife Guides & the Taylor Garden Guides ~
bet you can't get just one... both are a highly informative,
collectible series of softcover guides... as at home in your
day pack, as they are on the bookshelf or by the window...
go on ~ get curious about the natural world!
Oh, don't forget the ultimate reference, that has stood
the test of time, "Trees and Shrubs" by Hillier.

Grow your own produce.

Grow your own fruits... maybe a backyard orchard?

Spice up your cooking with homegrown herbs!

Garden organically, discover the value of "homegrown"
compost and how to take advantage of symbiotic
relationships within the plant world.

Indoor gardens? From the art of Bonsai, to the care of orchids
and creating entire indoor landscapes, we have help!

We carry a full complement of water gardening books.
There is nothing so soothing as the sound of water in
your backyard oasis.

Motivated to start your own?

How about now? Simple, straightforward directions on
propagating the species... great for you and those
school science projects!

Books like these are invaluable when you're contemplating
such a substantive landscape addition as a tree.

Useful when considering the look of a tree in its off-season, such
books as these are just beautiful to browse through, as well. We
have other such resources that highlight the beauty and texture of
foliage... it's not just about colorful blooms, when it comes to
plant selection.

One of the most involved topics within horticulture is undoubtedly
pruning our landscape. The when, where and why of proper pruning
is revealed within the pages of "Pruning Made Easy" by Lewis Hill
and in "Pruning & Training" from The American Horticultural Society.

Oh, deer! Discover the best methods of keeping Bambi and
his cohorts from dining on your landscape. From barriers and
scent aversion, to deer-resistant plants, learn the best
combinations to succeed in deer country.

Ooh! Serious armchair gardening book!

Lighthouses? Sure ~ it's New England!

Books by local authors, like Ipswich's own Marion O'Connell Frost,
who shares her wonderful photography and memories of growing up
in Gloucester... "My Gloucester" makes a wonderful gift.

A Gloucester author...
Pick up Kim Smith's lovely perspective...
"Oh Garden of Fresh Possibilities!"

Ipswich author William Sargent pens fascinating books for adults,
full of local lore, and story books to delight the children
in your life!

And, speaking of children, here's just a sampling of our
eclectic little mix of books for children, including
"The Vegetable Garden Alphabet Book" by Bob Thomson,
sure to pique the interest of the youngest gardeners in
your household!

If you have not dozed off by now, you're probably concluding
that we have lots of books on gardening, nature and
many other topics... indeed we have... and these are just
a sampling of the topics.

Drop by and browse, anytime!
For yourself, for a friend, for a child...
we have the gift of reading that fits!

Bibliophiles ~ Unite!

*12/9/11 Update: This article was reprised from 2010 and is not meant to represent every title currently in stock, but does offer the enthusiastic armchair gardener an overview of the books we carry. All books are currently on sale (as we pare down our selection to the essentials) at discounts ranging from
20% - 50%. You'll find our new, consolidated book section located at the front of our store... handy for browsing and Christmas shopping. As folks become aware of this book sale, inventory is
starting to dwindle.

Don't delay ~ take advantage of these great bargains!

Text/Photos © Deb Lambert 2010/2011

A Garden Center Christmas

2011-12-09T03:00:00.000-05:00

Got a few minutes? Enjoy my Christmas tunes, as we go on a tour... up to Corliss Bros. Garden Center & Nursery in Ipswich, MA. It all started with predawn shots of an absolutely gigantic moon... at least my little camera does better with this size! This article is reprised from the 'GardenAuthor' archives, and is meant only as an overview... some of our 2011 store selections have changed since original publication. Enjoy the roundtrip excursion.....

Through the linden tree

Through the Blue Atlas Cedar

Still visible, suspended above the hill as we head to work.

BRRR! Low twenties as we seek a couple of
nature shots, before heading in. Winterberry!

Lucy looks for mushrooms (all frozen and gone, now),
while I look for something frosty.

OK - this will do! It's that thin, splintery ice and
encased in the center are a few still-green hardy weeds.

Nice to arrive early, so there's time for extra photo opts
and a little browsing. Let's see what Lucy's tracking.

Under the lath roof, premium cut trees are still suspended,
awaiting the first customers.

Row after row of stately trees recline, awaiting inspection.

Living Christmas trees are still in good supply.
Here, we some of the larger specimens... a nice
tradition and a great addition to any landscape.

Well how about that? Just when I thought I'd posted every conceivable type of wreath, earlier ~ seems the designing women of Corliss have taken their creativity to new heights! So, without comment, let's check out their latest handiwork...

Last one - at least for now! Let's see if Lucy's still around...

Here she is, obviously in her capacity as Dwarf Alberta Spruce Inspector ~ small scale potted evergreens... perfect as living Christmas trees. "Come on, Lucy... time for work!"

Someone turned in a very frozen pair of work gloves, that didn't fare too well with yesterday's heavy rains and plummeting overnight temps. It struck me as a study in contrasts, as we now turn our attentions to the warm, inviting store interior...

For instance, the warmth and joyous color
that only a Poinsettia could provide.

And who can resist the upswept beauty
of a Cyclamen bloom?

Bows, handmade by the staff, are an increasingly popular element... they create bows to order all day, as well as a constant supply made up for folks in more of a hurry... the display was constantly being depleted, as some customers were buying 5, 10 or more at a time. (Those that look orange, are actually red - it's the strong morning sun distorting the colors.)

Now, we go from the decorative to the practical,
taking a sneak peek at the items that would delight
that gardener on your gift list. A new set of hand tools
might be just the thing!

Maybe a new pair of pruners or rose shears?

Just for fun... little stuffed birds that sing forth the appropriate, authentic song (per The Audubon Society), for each species, when lightly squeezed. A favorite of our younger shoppers!

Garden boots and shoes of every type...
every gardener could use these!

Crocs® (preferred summer garden shoe of many a North Shore gardener) and a big assortment of garden gloves for men, women and children. More thoughtful gifts!

Glass wind chimes, the color of sunshine, to make
music in the garden of your favorite gardener.

Bulbs ~ for indoor culture ~ Amaryllis, paperwhite narcissi and hyacinths (pre-cooled, for suspension in a hyacinth glass). Great hostess gift... pick up extras for your own indoor flower show, as well!

All sorts of windchimes (like this Japanese Maple chime)
and statuary, for indoors and out.

Now, here is a practical gift ~
maybe to add to your own wish list?
Or, maybe for that backyard recycler?
This is just one of the available models.

And, of course there's the Christmas Shop, filled with decorating supplies and all those Great Pretenders we looked at, earlier. And there are also some very special, unique ornaments... which we'll take a closer look at, next time.

And so, our working day concludes. Lucy's coworker, Phoenix, whispers sweet nothings in her ear, as we prepare to leave. Lucy seems impatient, so off we go... say "Goodnight," Phoenix!

OOOH! ~ the sun... can't resist a quick shot.

Cute little barn, surrounded by recently baled hay.
Sunset glow lingers on the western horizon.
Pretty start to our 50 minute ride home, eh?

Join me next time for a little tree trimming?

And, in the days to come, for some
interestingand unique gift ideas!

Hope you enjoyed our Corliss Bros. Garden Center Christmas!

Text and Photos: ©Deb Lambert 2008/2011

Amaryllis ~ Choosing, Prepping and Planting the "Queen of Bulbs"

2011-10-30T02:27:00.000-04:00

The selections are amazing at this time of year...

so many varieties!

While prepackaged amaryllis bulbs are convenient

and ideal for gift giving, they're more likely to produce

one flower stalk, in contrast to these top-size bulbs...

Top-size bulbs like these will usually produce 2-3 flower stalks,

providing a spectacular indoor flower show...

well worth the investment!

Hmm... Shall I go with huge (about 4" diameter) or

ginormous (about 6" across)?

Back home, with my purchase. And my decision?

The huge 4" diameter 'Apple Blossom' Amaryllis.

Time to get potting! Takes about 6-8 weeks from potting

to bloom. Before we start, it's time to address these shriveled

root tips for efficient water uptake.

With a sharp pair of kitchen shears or pruners, snip off

each withered root tip; otherwise, moisture absorption is

hindered and rooting may be delayed.

A properly trimmed root system, ready for the next step...

Fill a pan with tepid water (I add a teaspoon of

Neptune's Harvest Fish/Seaweed Blend) and suspend the

bulb above it. This way, the newly opened root cells will

draw up the moisture, without risk of rotting the bulb.

Allow it to remain thus suspended for several hours,

or overnight (my preference, to satisfy the bulb).

Pot choice? Definitely clay, for stability... decorative ceramic

pots are another choice, often favored for their decorative look.

Plastic pots may suffice, but do not provide stability and care

must be taken not to overwater. Here we see the three basic

shapes available in terra cotta. Left to right... standard, azalea

and bulb pan. Choose the "standard" for adequate depth.

Diameter? About two inches wider than the bulb diameter

(measured at its widest point), so my 4" wide bulb requires

that 6" diameter standard pot, shown above.

Soak the pot? Absolutely! That clay pot is porous and will

continue to draw moisture from the root mass, until it becomes

saturated. Setting your pot in tepid water for 20-30 minutes

(until it's thoroughly soaked) before potting, eliminates this problem.

Alternatively, soak the potted bulb afterward.

Time to bring in the pea gravel and potting soil!

Put a clay shard or piece of screen over the drainage hole,

then add about an inch of gravel to ensure proper drainage.

Choose an organic-rich, well-drained potting soil like

my favorite Bar Harbor Blend® from Coast of Maine.

Fill the pot about halfway with potting soil,

creating a little mound in the center, and pressing

out air pockets with your hand.

Leave about 1/2 of the bulb exposed above the soil line.

Recommendations range from 1/3 to 2/3. As you can see, I favor

the "2/3 rule," which greatly reduces the chance of overwatering.

I've chosen to soak the potted bulb, which provides its

first thorough watering. Hereafter, water will be provided

from the top down, taking care to water around the bulb,

not atop it.

Why you'll want to rinse off that pea gravel! Above, we

see it straight from the bag, dull and sand-coated... OK for

drainage stone, but not very decorative. But, thoroughly

rinsed and it's a handsome alternative to white marble chips -

perfect for filling humidity trays.

Yes, the saucer is quite wide, intentionally! When I water,

any excess will drain safely away from the root system,

eliminating possible root rot. Additionally, a constant water

level can be maintained in the base of this over one inch stone

bed. This amaryllis will have a constant supply of humidity -

(without sitting in water) important with our relatively dry

home air. This does not replace your normal watering routine.

You may need to add water to that saucer on a daily basis.

Apply this same system to any indoor plants all winter!

Do not overwater your newly planted bulb.

Once or twice a week should suffice. Once the flower bud tip

starts to protrude at the center of the bulb's neck, you may want

to increase watering frequency - possibly 2-3 times weekly. It

will vary according to available light, temperatures and lack of

humidity, as well as pot type... obviously, clay will dry out sooner

than ceramic or plastic.

Light? About a half day of sun... morning or afternoon is fine.

Once flower stalks appear, move your pot back from the strong

sun to bright, diffused light. This will prolong flower life,

allowing you to enjoy an extended flower display.

In another post... later, when you're wondering what to do with

that fading amaryllis, we'll cover the rest of the story and the

sometimes tricky scenario of re-blooming that bulb!

For now, we're left to anticipate an indoor flower show

from the "Queen of Bulbs."

Enjoy your amaryllis!

Photos/Text: ©Deb Lambert 2010

'Orange Sunset' Greigii Tulip ~ "World's Largest Tulip!"

2011-09-14T05:59:00.000-04:00

It really is the world's largest tulip!

Plant a few this fall and reap the kudos next spring...

The Giant 'Orange Sunset' tulip is deserving of its title... "World's Largest Tulip!" This Greigii Botanical tulip has 9-10" blooms, borne atop 8-12" stems. The beautiful striped foliage has the traditional "stitching" of other Kaufmanniana & Greigii hybrids, but the stunning flower size and glowing orange color set this one apart. It's excellent as a cut flower, as well as a striking spring accent for your garden. Plant the enormous bulbs in the fall and be amazed next spring... your garden will be the talk of the town!

We have these beauties planted in one of our display beds at the garden center, as well as in a nearby traffic island (and they do stop traffic!). Each spring, gardeners are amazed by these tulips, often placing an order for the following fall planting season... we gladly hold bulbs for fall planting and notify gardeners during September, upon the arrival of these gigantic bulbs.

Corliss Bros. Garden Center & Nursery is located at 31 Essex Road

Ipswich, MA 01938. Or, give us a call at 978.356.5422.

'Orange Sunset' Greigii Tulips are currently in stock, but they

sell quickly... call to make sure they'll be here when you

go bulb shopping this fall.

Photos/text ©Deb Lambert 2011

Birds, Bees, Butterflies & Beyond...

2011-06-29T17:15:00.004-04:00

Backyard gardeners should not limit themselves to the pursuit and cultivation of hybrids and and rare plant species. Many of the simplest forms, those varieties which also occur in the wild, offer the best sources of food and nectar for the wildlife we may seek to attract. With a little planning and forethought, a suburban landscape can become an oasis for birds, bees and butterflies. Yes, bees, too (especially our early, native mason bees) deserve consideration in the creation of such an area. They perform the cross-pollination so necessary to the production of fruit, vegetables and ornamental berries on such plants as hollies.

Water, the most basic element, is provided at regular intervals for the survival of our landscape specimens. It is just as necessary for the survival of backyard wildlife. Water is a strong attractant for birds, butterflies and other wildlife, a necessary element particularly during the long, hot days of summer. If you water with a sprinkler or have children who enjoy playing under a sprinkler, you’ll notice increased bird activity while it’s running. They’ll bathe, drink and generally cavort under the falling water droplets. Even bees and hummingbirds will drink from the remaining droplets left behind, after the sprinkler’s been turned off. Consider a combination fountain/birdbath... the moving water from that recirculating pump will lure a wider variety of birds and pollinators to your landscape. Any other static birdbaths in the general area, will also receive more visitors. Remember to keep birdbaths clean and sanitary with daily scrubbing.

Mud-puddling? An activity in which butterflies indulge on a daily basis. If space permits, maintain a shallow mud puddle, as many butterfly species will obtain moisture from the edges, without putting themselves in danger. They’ll also obtain essential minerals from these areas... you may wish to maintain a saucer filled with soil, sand or even small stones and water... set it on the picnic table and observe those butterflies up close. In nature, mud puddles are frequented between 10 am and 2 pm, by young males looking for mates.

Any birdbaths, whether on the ground (provide shelter from cats and/or hawks) or mounted on a pedestal, should be shallow, with gradually sloping sides for ease of entrance of exit. This is especially true for hummingbirds, who also frequent birdbaths. While much of their liquid intake is the form of nectar, water makes up the balance of the moisture they consume, a total of about eight times their body weight. Low birdbaths and shallow pools will attract a variety of wildlife, including frogs, toads and turtles.

The rising interest in water gardening is adding yet another dimension to wildlife gardening. A young friend of mine recently established a water garden comprised of several pools, with water recycled between the two, over a bed of stone. Water hyacinths and water lilies grace the larger pool. Gradually, the wildlife is moving in. A few insects were observed frequenting the area. Several days later, a frog had taken up residence. He now seems to have a mate, as two frogs were observed leaping from a lily pad the very next day. A fascinating experience for anyone, an invaluable teaching aid for the budding young naturalist.

Imitating Nature...

Imitation, they say, is the sincerest form of flattery. We who garden, often fancy ourselves backyard naturalists. We’re aware of the benefits derived in encouraging nature to share our environs... identifying birds and mammals, learning firsthand about their food and shelter preferences and enjoying the natural pest control that so many of our local wild inhabitants provide. However, those of us who admittedly garden “on the wild side,” must take the good with the bad, as we hold open that garden gate and invite native wildlife to share the fruits of our labors.
Butterflies: Nectar-rich flowers, water, sun, shelter and reproductive areas ~ to enjoy the grace and beauty of butterflies, these few basic requirements must be met. Providing water and minerals through mud-puddling, we’ve discussed. A critical component is the role plants play in the whole butterfly life cycle, from larvae to adult phases. The list are long and specific, each species having favorite nectar plants for the adult and favorite host plants fed upon by the caterpillars. Maintaining large swaths of wildflowers, like milkweed (for monarchs) and Queen Ann’s Lace or wild parsley (for swallowtails) will provide larval food for the caterpillars of our Eastern MA butterflies. Cultivating nectar-rich shrubs, vines, annuals and perennials will draw in the adult butterflies.

Remember that butterflies are seeking nectar sources, as they drift high above your gardens, so mass plantings, or at least groupings of favorite, colorful nectar plants, will prove most effective at drawing their attention... providing a sort of landing strip. Generally, composite flowers (like asters & daisies) and umbels (like wild carrot & parsley) provide the perfect, stable landing platform. Such landing areas are essential, as butterflies cannot hover very long. Butterflies prefer to visit swaths of flowers with strong colors such as orange, yellow, and purple. Since they view the environment through polarized light in the ultraviolet range, they are able to see hidden ultraviolet patterns on the petals which guide them to the heart of the nectar source. Along with color and shape, the fragrance of the flowers is a strong attractant. The most heavily perfumed flowers appeal to the sensitive sense of smell that butterflies possess. Although showy in the garden, many of the newer hybrids and double flower forms do not offer a significant source of nectar.

A few of the preferred nectar sources of adult butterflies (species-dependent)... Shrubs such as honeysuckle, lilac, butterfly bush (Buddleia), sweet pepperbush (Clethra), rhododendron, and viburnum. Perennials that attract adult butterflies include: coneflower (Echinacea), Stokes aster (Stokesia), pincushion flower (Scabiosa), mint, liatris, butterfly weed (Asclepias), daises of all kind, lilies, daylilies, coreopsis, phlox, bee balm (Monarda), sedum, heliopsis, gaillardia, nepeta (catmint), alliums, lantana, sweet alyssum, candytuft, zinnias, lavender, fleabane (Erigeron), delphinium, asters, black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia), perennial ageratum (Eupatorium), verbena and veronica. Among the many wildflowers that provide food sources for adults are milkweed, dandelion, clover, goldenrod, thistle, asters, eupatorium spp. (Joe-Pye weed, boneset), fleabane and yarrow.

You might consider bringing the butterflies closer to patios and porches, where you can observe them in detail... many of your hanging baskets and patio plants will attract them, as will butterfly nectar feeders. However, individual butterfly tastes do vary and certain species actually prefer to partake of manure piles, tree sap, carrion and rotting fruit... probably not something you’ll want to include in your outdoor entertainment areas.

Butterfly reproductive areas must provide very specific larval food sources. The adult butterfly has to be choosy about where she lays her eggs... even more selective than she is when selecting her favorite nectar producing plants. She must select larval food sources that possess the correct chemical make-up, that provide the necessary fuel for the metamorphosis from caterpillar to adult butterfly. Including the right host plants in large quantities is the most important step, and often the most overlooked, in creating a butterfly garden. Caterpillars have voracious appetites and will perish, before they reach metamorphosis, if there is not enough larval food available. These host plants provide shelter for all stages of the butterfly life cycle.

Larval Host Plants ~ Trees and shrubs: aspen, dogwood, oak, elm, sassafras, cherry, hawthorn, poplar, blueberry, spicebush, viburnum and willow offer a good source of food for the larva. Plant these to diversify the larval food supply: globe thistle, hollyhocks, beans, cabbage family, lupines, pipevine, snapdragons, yarrow and members of the carrot family, such as parsley. Wildflowers are great larval food sources: encourage milkweed, butterfly weed, thistle, nettle, violet, plantain, asters, dock, clover, turtlehead, pearly everlasting, mustard, Queen Anne's lace, vetch, meadowsweet and grasses.

Warmth is very important and stones (walks, walls, etc.), properly placed, will hold vital heat, as will south-facing wooden fences. For those species that overwinter as adults, consider mounting a butterfly box in a warm, sunny area to provide a convenient, predator-proof roosting spot for the hibernation period.

Wondering what butterflies may frequent your backyard? Go to this Massachusetts Butterfly Species List for great photos. For more info, go to The Butterfly Atlas from Mass Audubon. Trying to ID a caterpillar? Try “The Caterpillars of Massachusetts” Photo Gallery by Sam Jaffe.

Hummingbirds may be easier to attract than you realize. Like butterflies, they are sensitive to color stimuli and, like butterflies, are constantly searching for plants rich in nectar. Trumpet vines, red salvia, hanging baskets of fuchsia... just some of the plants which draw them into the landscape. Once there, they’ll discover and partake of other, less colorful nectar sources. Special feeders, which provide sugar-based nectar, may prove an additional attractant. Be sure to hang such feeders out of direct sunlight and maintain good sanitation.

To the gardener with many gardens to be tended, the presence of abundant backyard wildlife can be disruptive. Are you a compulsive, addictive identifier of all that surrounds you? Can’t go for a walk in the woods without camera, binoculars, magnifying glass and about half the Peterson and Audubon field guides ever written? Well, I was filled with resolve, my task set out before me. So, I hunkered down and commenced weeding what remained of my vegetable patch, after Chucky (our elderly, bachelor woodchuck) had his way with the chard, beans and peas.

I tried my best to ignore the sights and sounds of a peaceful Sunday morning. I’m not sure if it was the raspy cries of the belted kingfisher, the squawking the green herons, the enormous yellow butterfly or the unfamiliar black and orange frog hopping across my hand as I weeded (perhaps all of the above), but the dedicated gardener morphed into the amateur naturalist. Laden with my usual ID paraphernalia, I crouched at the edge of the hill, amidst mosquito-infested grass, to begin my silent watch and was rewarded with glimpses of the great blue heron, small green herons, bitterns and a black-crowned night heron (usually appears in late afternoon). Herons and bitterns are wary creatures and invariable “freeze” to avoid discovery... head pointed upward, with only a roving eyeball to indicate they are aware of our presence. Gradually, they relaxed and resumed their furtive search for food hidden deep within the murky depths of “Lily Pond.” With lightning quick motion, the green heron would consume one hapless victim after another, as he stood balanced with each foot on a lily pad. Obviously, I find these little backyard sojourns enjoyable, educational and even inspirational. Time spent in such a manner is never wasted.

While I may curse the mosquitoes which make gardening almost impossible at times, I bless our large swamp with its lily pads, aquatic plants and insects, and wild, wooded slopes - home to countless species of plants and animals. Peaceful, vegetarian muskrats foraging along the shore in early evening for roots and vegetation... including onion grass. Flickers, several types of woodpeckers, redwing blackbirds, catbirds, mockingbirds, innumerable sparrow species, finches, cedar waxwings, warblers, robins, blue jays, cardinals, Baltimore orioles, Cooper’s hawk, red-tailed hawks, crayfish, water striders, painted turtles, nesting wood ducks and mallards, frogs, bullfrogs, toads, newts, salamanders... I’m sure I’ve left out somebody! We can learn a lot about peaceful co-existence by observing nature in all her glory and wisdom.

For a real treat and yet more butterfly information, click on the following links to these 2007 ‘GardenAuthor’ posts ~ where over the course of several days, we posted the complete metamorphosis of a Monarch butterfly...

1.) Magnificent Monarchs

2.) Monitoring the Monarch

3.) The Metamorphosis

4.) Maiden Flight

©Deb Lambert 2011

HAPPY FATHER'S DAY!

2011-06-19T07:39:00.003-04:00

Sunday, June 19th...
Remember Dad on his special day!

Could these be your father's thoughts,

on his special morning?

"I wonder what the kids are planning. They've been plotting and whispering, with their mom, for the past week. Breakfast in bed? A cookout? Mow the lawn so I can play a round of golf?

"A surprise trip to the garden center for that compost tumbler I've been wanting? Maybe a gift certificate so I can choose a Kousa dogwood, red threadleaf Japanese maple or maybe start that dwarf conifer collection? Perhaps a leisurely afternoon of tending the gardens, while enjoying the company of my family?"

"Now, I just hope my dad's surprised when I present him the hardy landscape roses, organic fertilizer and mulch... everything he needs to start that easy-care rose bed he's been talking about, for the past two years. 'Like father, like son.' We're a family of gardeners and there's no more welcome gift than something that keeps us out in the garden, communing with nature."

"Ah... Father's Day...... I'll just stay open to the possibilities. But, most of all, it's my day to savor special moments with my children and with my dad. And, as always, we'll share family tales of my grandfather, who lives on in our treasured memories of another wonderful dad."

©Deb Lambert 2011

Armloads of Color!

2011-05-17T05:10:00.005-04:00

If it's mid-May, then vibrant landscape colors are on the horizon.

Let's take a stroll through Corliss Bros. Garden Center and
Nursery in Ipswich, MA (31 Essex Rd / Rte. 133)

for just a glimpse of Mother Nature's springtime bounty.....

The most venerable member of the Corliss Bros. delivery fleet,
this 1928 Chevrolet Huckster seems poised to deliver a
truckload of lavish blooms. Reminiscent of the Corliss delivery
vehicles of yore, this completely restored truck sometimes
makes a weekend appearance near our front door... much to the
delight of most Corliss customers... especially the youngsters!

When it comes to garden color, it's not only about the blooms.
A stroll through our dwarf and unusual specimens, will reveal
an astonishing range of color, structure, winter interest and
texture. For rock gardens, conifer beds and mixed plantings,
there are specimens sure to please discriminating gardeners.

Flowering trees, like these eye-catching redbuds
(Cercis canadensis spp. & hybrids), are part of a
grand sequence of constantly changing focal points...
a parade of spring color on a grand scale.

Need inspiration? The display area, located just beyond
our side door, changes weekly.... reflecting the always
shifting palette of color that awaits the avid gardener.

Don't forget the foliage! This shot reminds us that it's not
all about blossoms. Foliage plays a major role in the
well-planned landscape. Silver, blue, golden or deep emerald...
foliage variegated with cream, gold, pink or red streaks
and borders... red or burgundy foliage... needled evergreens,
broadleaf evergreens, deciduous... from shrubs diminutive
enough to serve as groundcovers (think Microbiota decussata,
Siberian Cypress - 1-2'H x 4-6'W), to weeping conifers
(like Blue Atlas Cedar, Cedrus atlantica 'Glauca' -
40-50'H x 10-15'W), you'll find striking accents that
compliment all those flamboyant springtime blooms.

Rhododendron 'Yaku Prince' 2-3’H x 5’W. Purple-pink

buds open pink then fade to white. Mid-May.

Reliable bloomer. Compact habit. Low spreading mound.

For part shade gardens. Dwarf “Yak” hybrid.

Rhododendron 'Ken Janeck' 2-3’H x 3-4’W. “Yak” hybrid.

Dwarf low wide spreader with pale pink flowers in mid-May.

Extremely interesting foliage with fuzzy,

fleece-like soft underside

Rhododendron 'Percy Wiseman' 3-4’H x 5’W.

Fleshy green foliage. Peach and pink flowers in mid-May,

a truly unique color among rhodies. Requires a

sheltered spot. Likes mid-day shade.

Salix integra ‘Hakuro Nishiki’ (Dappled Willow) 8-10’H x 8-
10’W. New flush speckled with green, pink, and white colors.
Likes some shade, prefers moist soil, can burn in hot dry spots.
Extremely vigorous, must be trimmed to keep small.

Pieris japonica 'Flaming Silver' As the showy, fragrant
strands of bells fade, the unfurling new growth provides
us with a red accent that quickly lightens to a silvery pink.
This color contrast persists for several weeks, with the new
growth gradually turning deep green with silvery white
borders. Like other Pieris varieties, this one likes sun and
well-drained soil. It is notably cold hardy.
Compact in form, it grows 3-5'H x 3-5'W

Rhododendron 'Capistrano' 5-7’H x 6-8’W.

Rare, truly yellow flowers. Rounded habit.

More cold hardy than other yellow cultivars.

Cytissus scoparius 'Moonlight' (Moonlight Scotch Broom)

4-6’H x 4-5’W. Small, rounded shape with yellow flowers.
Tip: Shear Cytissus as soon as blossoms drop.

Cytissus scoparius 'Burkwoodii'
Burkwood Scotch Broom 4- 6’H x 4-5’W.
Crimson-red flowers. Vigorous. Bushy.

An old-fashioned combination! Sometimes the simplicity
of red and white geraniums strikes exactly the right note,
spilling from a wooden window box.

Ulmus glabra 'Camperdownii'
(Camperdown Weeping Elm)
30-40’H x 30-40’W. Irregular, mounding habit
resembles a giant bonsai. Graceful appearance
year round. Rich green, deeply serrated foliage covers
the strong weeping branches. Vigorous.

Prunus serrulata 'Kwanzan' (Kwanzan Japanese Cherry)

20- 25’H x 15-20’W. Large, double-pink flowers.

Upright vase habit when young, becomes spreading

and rounded with age. Very vigorous grower. Disease free,

durable foliage. Pretty fall colors range from yellow-orange

to subdued reds. Needs well drained soil and plenty of sunlight.

'Kwanzan' has fabulous bark and branching structure.
This is a tree with year 'round interest.

Malus sargentii 'Tina' (Tina Crab) 8’H x 8’W. Perfect for small

yards. Pink buds to white flowers. Slow grower with small,

disease resistant foliage. Horizontal habit. Small persistent fruit.

'Tina' Flowering Crabapple blossoms.

I hope you enjoyed our mid-May stroll... maybe you'll
be tempted to scoop up an armload of color!

Note: By the time you view this colorful display, some of these plants may be past bloom. Because such specimens sell most quickly in flower, it's a good idea to call the nursery for availability, before making a special trip for any of the above ornamentals. (Corliss Bros... 978.356.5422)

Photos: ©Deb Lambert 2011

Catalog text: ©Corliss Bros., excerpted from the 2011 catalog

Mother Nature Celebrates Mother's Day

2011-05-05T11:39:00.001-04:00

Alexandrina Saucer Magnolia

Magnolia soulangiana 'Alexandrina'

25’H x 25’W. Large dark pink-red buds open to

pink blossoms. Cup-like blooms. Sun or part shade.

Rhododendron 'Scintillation' 4-6’H x 6-8’W. Deep, clear pink

in mid to late May. Broader than tall. Attractive glossy foliage.

Requires well-drained soil in a protected location. Does best

in a bright spot with some midday shade to avoid sun scorch.

Azalea 'Nancy' 2’H x 3-4’W. A Robin Hill hybrid with

low spreading habit. Pretty light pink hose in hose

double flowers. Evergreen. Each flower has the

appearance of a delicate pink gardenia blossom.

Spectacular!

Magnolia x 'Elizabeth'

Large cupped flowers emerge in early May. Yellow buds

open to creamy blossoms, with sweet fragrance. Vigorous,

upright growth. Needs protection from harsh winds.

Performs best in full sun to partial shade. Thrives in rich

organic soil, well-drained but evenly moist.

Azalea 'Silver Sword' 3’H x 3’W.

Heavy flowering, deep red blooms. Variegated

foliage for extended interest. Evergreen.
Tolerates sun or part shade.

Andromeda polifolia 'Blue Ice' 15”H x 2-3’W.

Narrow silvery foliage resembles rosemary leaves.

Clear pink flowers in Spring. Very cold hardy.

Likes boggy soil. Avoid hot dry locations.

Pieris japonica 'Mountain Fire' 4-6’H x 4-5’W.

Most popular variety has lush green foliage with

fiery red new growth flush. Red color continues

appearing throughout summer for extended appeal.
White flowers in spring hang from plant in strips.

Pieris is deer resistant.

Azalea 'Girard's Fuchsia' 3-4’H x 3-4’W.

Dark reddish-lavender in mid-May. Evergreen.

Very showy bloomer.

Spirea prunifolia

Bridalwreath Spirea 6-8’H x 4-6’W. An old-
fashioned classic. Gorgeous small double white

flowers in early spring cover the plant.

Azalea 'Western lights' ~ 2-3'H x 2-3'W Deciduous.
Vigorous grower with lush foliage and
clear pink flower clusters.

Azalea 'HinoCrimson' 3-4’H x 4-5’W. Strong red

flowers in mid-May. Extremely profuse, showy bloomer.

Decent foliage retention. Excellent sun tolerance

and cold hardiness.

Here in the Northeast, Mother Nature is finally, albeit

reluctantly, allowing our gardens a bit of finery... just in

time for Mother's Day this Sunday, May 8th.

HAPPY MOTHER'S DAY!

Photos: ©Deb Lambert 2011

Plant Descriptions: ©Corliss Bros. 2011 Catalog

Cleaning & Mending for the Home Landscape

2011-03-16T19:46:00.007-04:00

Deer, voles, mice and rabbits were responsible for most of the root, trunk and branch damage. Deer with their antler raking, cause much trunk damage, in addition to browsing on favorite landscape specimens. Voles tunnel around throughout the landscape feeding on, and often girdling, trees and shrubs. Mice are adept at climbing, seeking the higher and outer tree portions. Rabbits, standing atop a constant snow cover, were able to reach greater heights, as they nibbled on trunks, also quite capable of girdling trees. As delicate plants like threadleaf Japanese maples lay imprisoned and blanketed by storm after storm, they were subject to an excess of rodent destruction, besides the deer damage. This Japanese maple exhibits a combination of storm, rodent (mice) and deer damage.....

Guess who came to dinner!

Pick up winter debris - leaves, twigs, branches - from garden and lawn areas. Trim away torn and broken limbs that cannot be repaired. Cut all dead wood branch tips to live tissue. Scratching the bark with your thumbnail, will expose underlying green tissue. Clean pruning cuts will heal much more quickly… eliminate jagged bark edges, with a sharp pocket knife. Dressing any trunk wounds, to encourage callusing, includes shaping the wound elliptically for proper water drainage. Eventually, the edges will callus, with the callus rolling inward to meet the inner wood. An application of

Phytech 50® will prevent excessive drying, as wounds strive to heal. Coat all edges and inner surfaces with this protective blend of oils and waxes. With sap rising and the threat of insects and diseases looming on the horizon, this becomes an additional step, not needed with winter pruning.

Obviously, the weakest point is where two branches converge, in a V-shape… such a crotch is always subject to moisture collection, freeze damage and snow-load stress. While any specimen can fall prey to the ravages of winter, those causing the greatest concern are small ornamental trees, like dogwood, Japanese maples, etc.

First, eliminate any excessive top weight, so as they foliate, there’s less of a foliage load. Trying to mend splits is an easier task with two people. First step is to scrape away some of those dried inner cells, to expose live tissue. I like to coat both halves with vaseline to keep the cells pliable and fresh during the healing process. Bind them together with clothesline or stout twine, temporarily. Do NOT use wire, duct tape, electrical tape, etc. to bind such branches back together. These cut off air circulation, hold moisture and will girdle the area. Galvanized or stainless steel carriage bolts, nuts and washers are countersunk (bark will callus over) when trying to guy two branches back to their original growth pattern. The last step is to apply Phytech 50® across the top and along the sides of the mended area, to prevent water damage and to keep pests and diseases at bay. Lastly, choose a warm spell to perform these tasks, with temps in the 50-60º range for several days.

This Kerria japonica displays many broken branches, needing

immediate attention, by cutting back to live dormant buds. And

as soils become friable, start feeding those stressed plants with

a granular, organic fertilizer.

'Robusta Green' juniper ~ partially uprooted,

with major splits in several places...

Sadly, this balsam fir succumbed to a needle cast

disease that started late last fall. All remnants of this

diseased tree must be removed, to lessen the chance of

this disease spreading to another fir, nearby.

The butterfly bush suffered many broken branches and

has been the recipient of exceptionally early spring pruning.

Surprisingly, the 'Blue Prince' holly in front

sustained little damage, despite remaining in a prone

position... buried under snow all winter. The

'Blue Princess' holly in the background has also

recovered nicely.

This holly disappeared after the first heavy snowstorm

and had snow shoveled upon it, but seems to have survived.

A closer look at the center, reveals a little pruning and guying

are in order. But, overall, not too bad.

This was a nice reward at the end of my landscape

inspection... nestled in a warm spot by the foundation,

this hardy little crocus announces spring.

And, the last Amaryllis blossom poses, as I turn

my attention to the indoor plants.

Just a reminder ~ keep feeding those birds until they're

able to start dining on insects, providing us with

valuable insect control.

One good thing about all that snow? Just last week, as the

snow melted from my banking of cotoneaster, an abundant

crop of berries on the Cotoneaster 'Perpusilla' came into

view... much to the delight of my backyard birds!

First 6 Photos: ©S.R. Calef 2011

Remainder of Photos: ©Deb Lambert 2011

PLEASE NOTE: If you are reading this article on a website or blog, other than my own, it has been posted there without my knowledge or permission! I'd be grateful for an emailed "heads-up" if you notice such thievery! Just go to my website at GardenAuthor.com, scroll to the bottom of any page and click on the email button. On behalf of my fellow garden writers and bloggers, I thank you for helping to protect our intellectual property!

Winter Fruit for Backyard Birds

2011-02-23T15:00:00.003-05:00

Winter Fruit for Backyard Birds... and Gardeners!
Actually, let's make that year 'round fruit for all!

Here in the Northeast, we gardeners are constantly seeking plants to enhance our landscape, while providing a food source for our native, non-migratory birds. The returning migratory birds have a wide variety of fruits and berries from which to dine, all spring and summer; however, the winter menu for year 'round residents is considerably less varied. While many of us offer supplemental feeding with seed and suet, a well-planned landscape provides a significant source of nutrients. As the snow cover melts away, we're left gazing at the dreary browns and grays that precede spring. What better means to brighten a dreary late winter than with golden, bright red or glossy black berries?

Ilex verticillata 'Winter Red'

Recently, with my nose pressed to the frosty windowpane, watching the daily dinner crowd at my feeding stations, I resolved to introduce more winter fruit into the home landscape. Looking out at the other backyards, sloping down to our swamp, it occurs to me that not much thought is invested into providing for wildlife, nor to the beautification of said yards. With a strong horticultural background, years spent within the "green industry" and a love of all creatures great and small, it stands to reason that my landscape design ideas always include plants that meet the needs of backyard wildlife. My winterberry, Ilex verticillata 'Winter Red' (a deciduous member of the holly family) has provided fabulous bright red color since early fall. It's been as much a highlight of snowless winters, as it has for snow-filled seasons... right up until the mockingbird and his cohorts polished off all the berries. (One male verticillata is necessary to pollinate the female, which bears the fruit - the male will pollinate a number of plants, located within the general area.) I hope to add about three more female winterberries this spring.

Winterberry is handsome from the time it starts to ripen,

right through the dull days of winter.

Year 'round residents, like this mockingbird, relish the

scarlet berries and add to the visual interest!

More berries for color, winter interest and bird rations? Try Ilex meserveae 'Blue Princess'... this handsome evergreen holly has glossy, blue-green foliage and generous clusters of bright red berries - again a male specimen will provide pollination for these colorful fruits. These, too, are relished by fruit-eating birds. My 'Golden Girl' holly, with its yellow fruit, seems to be left for my viewing enjoyment - I have yet to see the birds eating from this plant. 'Hetz' and 'Robusta Green' upright junipers both produce bluish-gray berries, a particular favorite of mockingbirds and blue jays. All the birds, especially the cardinals, are quite keen on Viburnum trilobum (American Cranberry Bush) and V.t. 'Wentworthi' (Wentworth Cranberry Bush). A mature, well-fruited specimen will provide enough berries for fall and winter dining, with enough left over for the returning catbirds and robins.

Ilex meserveae 'Blue Princess'

From summer through the long winter, these wonderful

hollies grace the landscape and feed the birds.

Shake it up with golden accents!

This Ilex meserveae 'Golden Girl' is spectacular.

The blueish-gray berries of upright junipers provide
a nice landscape note and more food for the birds.
Blue jays are especially fond of these!

American Cranberry Bush ~
Viburnum trilobum 'Wentworthi' (Wentworth Cranberry Bush)

This particular variety of viburnum is handsome

from late summer through winter.

If any of the persistent fruits remain uneaten come spring,
the returning migratory birds will polish them off
upon their spring arrival.

Now, there are many other fruiting plants of interest to gardeners, backyard birders and birds. In most cases, these are so attractive, that homeowners include them for their great beauty and multi-seasonal features. Coincidentally, the following examples are a prime source of sustenance for backyard birds.

Rose hips, relished by certain birds and squirrels.

Cranberry Cotoneaster, Cotoneaster apiculata, has summer/fall
fruits that sometimes last until early winter. In spring, this
semi-evergreen is covered with tiny, double, rose-like blossoms.

Black chokeberry, Aronia melanocarpa 'Autumn Magic'
has shiny black fruit that usually persists until late
winter/early spring.

'Rosy Glow' barberry has ample fruit, borne well
into winter. Do not look for barberries at Massachusetts
garden centers... the state has banned the sale of these
plants, because of their invasive nature. (But birds continue
to feast on the fruit of such "grandfathered" existing plants.)

On a personal note, I have never witnessed a "volunteer" of
either the 'Rosy Glow' or 'Crimson Pygmy' hybrids
in my own gardens.

Typical foundation or hedging specimens, these
upright Hicks yews, Taxus media 'Hicksii', have a
berry that appeals to cardinals, among others.

The unusual fruit of Cornus kousa, the Korean dogwood,
attracts a variety of birds and can even be used
for making jelly.

Cornus alternifolia, or Pagoda dogwood, has delicate spring
panicles of creamy white, followed by blue-black fruits
in late spring/early summer. While all the birds are
interested in this early-season harvest, the flock of Eastern
Kingbirds shows up right on time and devours the
remainder of the crop, every year.

Wild river and fox grapes carpet the ground and form
canopies in the trees of our local wild areas. They provide
an autumn feast for birds and wildlife.

Likewise, with the rambling, cultivated
backyard Concord grapes.

And, speaking of backyard fruit, let's not forget to share
some of those everbearing golden raspberries
with our feathered friends.

Plant a few extra canes ~ there will be plenty for all!

Don't forget the everbearing and
July-bearing red raspberries!

Or, the blueberries! Although birds are much more voracious
when it comes to this fruit. Leave one or two bushes without
protective netting, so they can can partake of the bounty, too!

Sprayed and unblemished, or left to nature's care, all
apples provide a welcome feast, come September and October.

This old-fashioned Dolgo Crabapple is a fruiting variety,
which has been bearing since the 1930's.

Once prized for jelly making, the sizable fruit is now
left for the enjoyment of birds and backyard critters.

Prized for its ornamental characteristics, this flowering crab
is a compact variety called 'Tina'.

Similar to the Sargent flowering crab, it produces an abundance
of lush, spring blossoms.

All autumn and well into the winter, these persistent fruits
add color to dreary off-season landscapes, while providing
long-term sustenance for the birds.

In the wild areas adjacent to my environs, grows this inviting berry.
The birds delight in this treat and readily devour these soft berries.
We, our children and pets cannot digest this poisonous fruit of
the deadly nightshade. This should also serve as a reminder
that the fruit of two plants we've discussed, is toxic... holly
(both the evergreen and deciduous forms of Ilex)
and yews (Taxus)... just a reminder.

Lastly, we see a yellow-flowered vernal witch hazel,
Hamamelis vernalis, whose flowers open as early
as February/March.

These copper-colored twisted blooms belong to
Hamamelis intermedia 'Diane'.
There is also a late autumn species,
Hamamelis virginiana, the common witch hazel.

Why include witch hazel in this discussion?
Because of these unusual, woody fruits they produce.

Some smaller birds, predominately chickadees, find this
fruit irresistible. They dine on them freely throughout the
long winter months... eating only the two-year old fruit.

So, with very little effort, you can be surrounded with winter color... both on the plant and on the wing. Try to develop a landscape that offers natural food sources and you'll be rewarded by a constant stream of backyard visitors. Feeding stations should become mainly supplemental, not the primary food source. Your landscape should include plant material that offers year 'round food sources, shelter, nesting sites, protection from predators and clean water. My guilty pleasure, in the midst of the growing season, is sitting with the dog on the garden bench ~ writing and bird-watching, while the birds cleanup the invading hordes of insects... my kind of multi-tasking!
THINK SPRING, EVERYONE!!!

Deb Lambert ©2011
PLEASE NOTE: If you are reading this article on a website or blog, other than my own, it has been posted there without my knowledge or permission! I'd be grateful for an emailed "heads-up" if you notice such thievery! Just go to my website at GardenAuthor.com, scroll to the bottom of any page and click on the email button. On behalf of my fellow garden writers and bloggers, I thank you for helping to protect our intellectual property!

Seed Catalog Reverie

2011-02-02T04:30:00.001-05:00

Photos: National Garden Bureau

Ah... the annual migration of seed catalogs
Winging their way to my door
Coming to nest in my rural mailbox, until evening
Cold and slightly curled, within the postman's rubber bands,
These lovely portents of an embryonic growing season
Warm, unbend and release their precious promises
Here, on my kitchen counter

My supper cools to an uncomfortable level
As I contemplate this visual feast, spread before me
Each seed catalog more tempting than the last
Every variety a must-have
A lush depiction of my backyard Eden's potential
Certainly, no garden could be considered complete without
This tantalizing array of all things edible and ornamental

But, cooler heads should prevail...
I ought to immediately don my garden writer's hat,
Lose the hatless, creative attitude
And make sound, logical plant choices
Based on a lifetime of research, gardening
And the actual size of this suburban paradise
Memo to self - my "back-forty" is measured in feet, not acres

When one considers limiting factors, such as available sunlight,
One must be honest in assessment of this requirement
Realizing that three hours of late afternoon sun
Will not satisfy the needs of a specimen needing full sun
One would certainly think that a "professional" would not fall prey
To a cultural "pushing of the envelope"... a rationalization
Well, one would be wrong - I, too, succumb to the glossy promise!

After all, are we not mortal stewards of the garden?
Do we not wish for bumper crops of tomatoes
And the subsequent bragging rights, as we share our bounty?
Pineapple-flavored, smoky overtones, balanced acidity, sugary-sweet,
Small as a currant, big as your head,
Pear, heart, plum, egg, strawberry or cherry-shaped,
Ivory, yellow, green, streaked, purple, orange and, of course, red

Who knew?
It's just a tomato!
And you thought you were just growing tomatoes?
A tomato is a tomato is a tomato
Who knew these decisions could get so complicated?
And, called by any other name, would it be as sweet?
Methinks 'twould!

Not to wax philosophical,
But apply all these tomato truisms and variables to the whole garden
Mix in logic, honesty, frugality and a large pinch of common-sense
Trust your instincts
Try not to be lured into over-consumerism
And, for goodness sake, leave some seeds for the rest of us!

I bid you adieu
And with nose firmly pressed into catalog interiors,
I'll envision a growing season filled with delights for eye and palate
A culmination of my season-long efforts
As I lounge beneath an arbor and "peel me a grape"
Wake me when the seeds arrive
Rouse me when it's time to plant

But for now, tiptoe away
Tend to your own fantasy-gardens
And I'll tend to mine
Leave me to drift
Suspended on the wings of eternal hope
Leave me cocooned in the depths
Of my seed catalog reverie!

Deb Lambert ©2011

PLEASE NOTE: If you are reading this article on a website or blog, other than my own, it has been posted there without my knowledge or permission! I'd be grateful for an emailed "heads-up" if you notice such thievery!

Help stop theft and plagiarism of the intellectual property displayed within my many blogs, the blogs I maintain for Corliss Bros., and the content of my website. The "feed scrapers" that appropriate my material, insert advertising into my text and display my entire articles (complete with photos) have already stolen unknown quantities of my copyrighted works. Sadly, other garden writers/bloggers are experiencing similar theft, so we must all remain vigilant, assisting each other in this effort. We'd all be grateful for your vigilance, as well. Thank you ~ Deb Lambert, 'GardenAuthor'

Winter Birding for Backyard Gardeners

2011-01-27T05:00:00.001-05:00

During the remainder of this now frigid winter, there is an activity in which most backyard gardeners engage. Assisting with the winter survival of backyard wildlife is a satisfying endeavor, especially in suburbia, where native habitat is constantly shrinking. Many of our songbirds are non-migratory, constantly on the lookout for food and water, during the difficult winter months. We can do much to ease the struggle of those feathered friends... after all, birds provide song, color, beauty and insect control from spring through fall, along with their migratory counterparts, so why not encourage their presence year 'round?

One of the least expensive, highest energy and longest-lasting treats we can provide is raw suet, available in chunks at the supermarket. A big suet feeder, made of vinyl-coated wire mesh, will hold a large quantity of suet which will last for quite some time, without refilling. I like to hang suet in several locations, so all birds can enjoy this treat. High-fat foods are necessary to maintain body heat and insulate feathers against the snow, cold rain and plummeting temperatures of winter. All backyard birds seem to relish suet, especially the shy Downy Woodpecker, whom you may want to provide with his own upside-down suet feeder. Why? Because the pesky starlings, that also crave suet, will crowd out less aggressive birds; however, woodpeckers and many of the smaller birds can easily feed by clinging upside-down, while most starlings cannot. I did have one "smart" starling solve the mysteries of flipping upside-down during flight, but with great difficulty and he soon went back to the big suet cage.

Another source of heat and energy are pre-formed suet cakes, made to to fit within smaller, square suet feeders. These are handy, can be stored in the freezer and are easily popped into the suet cage, as needed. They often include special treats like peanuts, nut meats, seed, fruit, berries or even insects (popular with woodpeckers and mockingbirds). Do-it-yourselfer? You can render raw suet over low heat (keep kids away from the stove and hot fat). After it's completely cooled, and before it solidifies, stir in sunflower seed, seed blends, nuts, orange bits, raisins, etc. Pour into molds and store in the freezer, until needed. Here's another project - one the children will enjoy... Mixing this dough requires lots of muscle, but it's a fun project. The basic recipe is 4 cups cornmeal, 1 cup flour, 1 cup peanut butter and 1 cup shortening - mix well and pack into pine cones, suspended from lower tree limbs or that recycled Christmas tree. Fill mesh onion bags or suet feeders with the mixture and hang near bird feeders. Fill in tree bark crevices with the dough and enjoy the antics of nuthatches, titmice, chickadees as they retrieve this tasty treat. Freeze any leftovers for refills.

Turn up the heat... one more way to increase the fat content of the backyard bird is to fill most feeders with black oil sunflower seed. As you might guess, this seed is rich in natural oil, further insulating birds against the elements. All birds will enjoy this sunflower, so you can simplify your feeding chores and storage issues. However, if you care to cater to their particular preferences, there are other seeds and blends to explore. Striped sunflower (high-fiber, less oil) and sunflower kernels (no messy shells) are eaten by just about everyone. Downy woodpeckers will dine from specially-designed feeders, preferring nut meats, peanut hearts, sunflower kernels, and white millet.

Other preferences - To some extent, you can regulate backyard visitors by offering specialty seeds and blends. Peanut hearts are relished by most birds. Surprisingly, cracked corn, in limited quantities, is eaten by a variety of birds and is chiefly a digestive aid. White millet (avoid coarse red millet, which attracts pigeons and other "undesirables") is a treat for the cardinal, finch, sparrow, junco, nuthatch, titmouse, mourning dove and pheasant. Tiny black Niger (commonly, "thistle") seeds are sought out by the smallest birds and mourning doves. The white hard-shelled safflower (squirrels dislike this one) is eaten by the cardinal, mourning dove, titmouse, chickadee, nuthatch, red-bellied woodpecker, red-winged blackbird, evening grosbeak, rose-breasted grosbeak, song sparrow, white-throated sparrow and house finch. Look into specially-designed feeders for the seeds and mixtures you plan to offer. Low, platform feeders are great for offering safflower to the ground-feeding cardinals, white-throated sparrows and mourning doves. It keeps the seed dry and doesn't attract squirrels.

Speaking of squirrels... At this moment, I have no doubt that top engineers continue to devise yet more ways to discourage and baffle those persistent gray squirrels. Pole baffles, hanging baffles, special mechanisms and weighted perches designed to foil these furry, gray-suited "engineers" are mounted in backyards even now, under scrutiny and attack by squirrels who always seem to enjoy a challenge. Try mounting a twirling feeder (away from bird feeders), whose four metal arms hold dried ears of corn. It's fun to watch the squirrels spinning 'round for their lunch!

Other food sources include weed seeds and berries from wild areas, as well as perennial seeds and persistent fruits on your garden trees and shrubs... a good reason to include plants that that offer winter food sources. Some landscape specimens like flowering crabs, viburnums, winterberries and cotoneaster provide valuable winter fruit. My resident, wintering mockingbird survives on a diet of suet and berries. Leaving taller, staked perennials all winter adds to the natural food supply - Aster, Black-eyed Susan, Joe Pye weed and Helen's flower offer seed into the winter and can be cut back in spring.

Shelter can easily be provided with birdhouses and roosting boxes. Fall-mounted birdhouses will be claimed early next spring for nesting. Try to include evergreens of all sizes, if space permits. Pines, spruces and firs are large-scale habitats, but upright and pyramidal yews, as well as upright junipers (birds love the berries) offer smaller-scale shelter and nesting sites. Feeding stations should be positioned near sheltering plants, providing protection from weather and hawks, along with accessibility to food.

And last, but not least - water! In the Northeast, we're experiencing a dry, open winter that has suddenly turned frigid. With the local pond frozen, it's time to provide an open source of water. Normally, birds obtain some moisture from snow, but there has been almost none, so far. Birdbath heaters and heated birdbaths that are thermostatically-controlled, are widely available. It's still important to keep the vessel clean and water changed, daily. Another option is a flexible, shallow, black rubber feed pan. Set it on cement blocks or bricks in a sunny area, knock out the ice and replace with fresh water, daily. The black color attracts the sun's warmth, keeping the water open for a longer time. Birds will get used to this source and stop by for a drink, whenever you change it. I try to change it twice, on the coldest days.

If you employ just some of the above techniques, you'll be assisting wildlife, while bringing nature up close for your own enjoyment. Place feeding stations in easy view from kitchen tables, easy chairs and other such prime observation points. Keep field guides handy, for correct identification of the many bird species you attract. Children usually enjoy this aspect of backyard birding... eager to identify all newcomers. Take that same enthusiasm, along with the children and field guides, on a winter hike through local preserves and Audubon trails. Identify plant species, new birds, animal tracks and other signs of winter wildlife. All too soon, another gardening season will be upon us!

Photos & Text: ©2011 Deb Lambert

Avian Accoutrements, Garden Tools, Gift Packs and Stocking Stuffers

2010-12-16T12:12:00.000-05:00

Whether you're seeking last-minute holiday gifts,

presents for your feathered friends or something nice

for yourself, the following may serve as inspiration...

Architectural statements? Bird houses? Roosting boxes?

Yes, to all three! A handsome, practical edition that's bound

to become a focal point in any yard. The choice is yours!

Corliss Bros Garden Center & Nursery has many excellent,

squirrel-foiling feeders, from all the well-known sources... your

squirrels will be flung, dumped and spun from many of the

tube feeders they carry. I still remain a big fan of the

"Squirrel Buster" feeders. There are 4 models and I am pleased

with the performance in my backyard of all four. Their largest

model offers a cardinal perch and I have cardinals dining all day.

The squirrels have long since learned that these feeders all

slam shut, whether they mount an attack from the ground or air;

consequently they don't even give these feeders a second look...

they've gone back to their corn cobs and wildlife mix.

Beautiful ceramic accents... not for winter mounting, though!

Weight-adjusted perches preclude foraging by larger birds

or squirrels ~ you're in control.

Birds often prefer these plain unpainted boxes and

there are very specific opening for each bird, like this

chickadee house. They'll shelter in it this winter and

inhabit it early next spring.

During the growing season, such jewel-toned ceramic birdbaths

are an attractive garden element that birds will frequent - these

and glass birdbaths are not "winter hardy!"

Nice for gifting, aren't they?

Specially designed for flickers.

Shelter from the storm with roosting boxes like these.

Granite, metal, glass and ceramic birdbaths.

Invite bats to share next growing season and enjoy

the natural insect control... especially mosquito control!

We gardeners are always on the hunt for new tools and innovative

new gadgets... Pruners, hand tools and traditional garden tools are

always a draw in the garden shop and are some of the most

frequented areas of the store... surprise your favorite gardener this year!

Long-lasting, long-handled and D-handled garden tools.

Oxo Good Grips is a familiar name in culinary circles, but

their fine quality, attention to detail and comfort, combined

with a wide selection makes this an up and coming name in

garden circles, as well. A very serious hand hoe joins the

ranks of their trowels, cultivators, scoops and very unique

take on a dandelion weeder!

I think of my own All-Pro Wilcox® trowels as fine instruments...

you can plant and divide with surgical precision with the

finely beveled edges of these versatile trowels.

No, it's not a "spork!" It's a Trake! You guessed ~

a trowel on one end and a garden fork on the other.

Corona® hand tools with comfortable, ergonomic grips.

Manufactured in Holland... hand-forged garden tools to last a

lifetime ~ an absolutely amazing array of clever, creative devices

designed to cultivate, rid your garden of weeds and

plant new specimens... very nifty gifts!

Reasonably priced and good looking!

Gift pack on wheels? This Lawn Buddy by Ames is equipped with

a tray for small tools and gloves and is packed to overflowing with

all the goodies your favorite might ask for... gloves, hand tools,

pruners, Coast of Maine Potting Soil, Neptune's Harvest fish/seaweed

blend fertilizer and a "Life is Simple" (... "Eat, Sleep, Garden") cap.

Seed starter's delight... includes seed tray mat for that

all important bottom heat!

This scale of garden tools are traditionally referred to

as floral tools. These telescoping handles expand

from 18-32" - just right as hand tools or long-handled

garden implements.

Choose from a shrub rake, shovel, mini garden rake

or a cultivator/hoe.

Two rose books, gauntlet rose gloves, Rose Pharm® organic

spray, rose pruners, rose cap, rose seeds (Rosa chinensis)

and a "Trake" (trowel/rake combo) will delight your favorite

rose gardener or surprise a new gardener!

2011 seeds from Burpee

2011 seeds from Harts

Spring starts now! Get an early start on shopping for seeds

and seed starting supplies, include seed packets as stocking

stuffers or make up a gift pack for that new backyard gardener.

2011 seeds from Botanical Interests

These are the Botanical Interests heirloom vegetables.

Let's take a closer look at some of the varieties in the

next two photos...

These are heirloom herbs.

Economical, convenient big packs of new and old favorites,

both vegetables...

..... and flowers!

How about a whole garden in a box? Choose from salad

or vegetable... great gift idea!

Heart stones... what a neat garden gift...

maybe for "Mom?"

Last, but not least, the sounds of the season ~ just a

small sample of the jingle bells in stock ~ mine are still

hanging on the kitchen door from last Christmas and are

a cheerful year 'round accent.

Not enough inspiration? Or, unsure of that seasoned gardener's

true needs? There is probably nothing more thoughtful than a

gift certificate to their favorite garden center... maybe just the

ticket to get them dreaming about a brand new growing season!

HAPPY HOLIDAYS!

Text/Photos © Deb Lambert 2010

NO PARTY PANTS/Or, Decorating with Holiday Plants

2010-12-07T06:18:00.004-05:00

The Poinsettia

Before we discuss the care of holiday plants, let's view

the many variety choices available... literally, there is a

perfect poinsettia hue for every indoor decorating scheme.

Nothing breathes life and warmth into our indoor holiday displays quite like a living, growing plant. Poinsettia, of course, has the distinction of being the quintessential Christmas plant. While the lavish red or creamy white bracts remain traditional favorites, modern hybrids are not your grandmother's poinsettias. Choices include burgundy, more vibrant reds, multiple pink hues and a variety of whites and creams... we also find remarkable variegations - bracts that are splashed, dotted and streaked with contrasting colors.

Factoids: Average room temps/no drafts/not near a heat source/set on a humidity tray (a wide saucer that extends well beyond the pot diameter - filled with 1-2" of pebbles, in which a constant water level is maintained - the pot is never in standing water, but the humidity constantly evaporates upward, around the foliage)/keep lightly moist/no standing water/use tepid water/east or filtered south light.

The Cyclamen

Descriptions of this unusual bloom range from a hovering butterfly to a chieftain's headdress. Foliage vies with blossoms for attention. Deep green leaves are delicately veined and variegated with silver. A rich shade of maroon, on the flip side, gives the heart-shaped foliage even more depth. The interesting, unique blooms are found in shades of red, pink, lavender and white. There are standards, dwarfs and spice-scented varieties. Whichever you select, cylamen is a wonderful addition to your winter plant collection.

Factoids: Cool to avg. room temps - blossoms last longer if it's on the cool side/not near heat source/humidity tray /soil surface dries to the touch, between waterings/no standing water/use tepid water/water only around the edges - avoid wetting the tuber/cool, east or west-facing windows are ideal/pinch off spent blooms.

The Christmas Cactus

Photo © Steven Calef 2010

Christmas cactus is another holiday favorite, as much for its seasonal display, as for the success most indoor gardeners experience with this one. Shades of red, orange, white, pink and lavender are all represented in this group. Let's face it - with its semi-succulent leaf segments, the Christmas cactus is just easier to care for than the more finicky indoor plants.

Factoids: Avg. room temps/blossoms last longer if it's on the cool side/not near heat source/humidity tray (not as critical as for many plants)/dry between waterings (a little more moisture while in bloom)/no standing water/use tepid water/east, south or west - but, flowers last longer away from hot, direct sun.

The Norfolk Island Pine

Norfolk Island Pine is a non-hardy indoor foliage plant that enjoys its greatest popularity at Christmas time... a nice little living tree to decorate for the holidays, as well as an attractive addition to a permanent indoor plant display. A Norfolk Island Pine is often an ideal solution for apartments and offices. If you use lights, make sure they're cool-burning (LED lights, etc.), to avoid burning sensitive needles.

Factoids: Cool to avg. room temps/not near heat source/humidity tray/allow soil to dry about 2" down (in a large nursery pot)/soak the soil with tepid water/no standing water/never over-water, especially in winter (these last two are the most common causes of failure)/very bright room or... east, west or filtered south.

No Party Pants, please... Except at the party! Florist's foil, crimped up around the rather plain green pots of our holiday plants, lends a festive flair, in a myriad of shiny hues. It's tempting to leave it on for the entire season... please, don't! It affects air circulation, cuts down on rising humidity around foliage and retains excess water, which may lead to root rot. An alternative to foil, is a cache pot or decorative basket - set the plant on a saucer of pebbles, placed at the bottom of this outer container. Air will circulate, bringing healthful humidity up around the foliage and roots will never sit in excess water.

So, no foil party pants, at least not until the night of the party!
Or, said a little more politely... we prefer that you foil your plants
the night of the party... your plants will prefer it, too!

You, too, will be happy with all the
Corliss Bros. holiday plant selections! *

* The part of a happy Corliss shopper was portrayed by Jill Silva

Text & Photos ©Deb Lambert 2010, except as noted.

Potting Specimen Evergreens

2010-12-07T06:00:00.004-05:00

Potting Specimen Evergreens...

(in which I add to my movable landscape)

The view from my front door on this sunny October day, when
I was about to tackle an enormous potting project.

Arborvitae, Japanese holly, pots, soil and all the supplies
in readiness, a few days before Halloween.

Because much of this portion of my yard is covered with
pavers, I've come to appreciate the versatility that potted
evergreens and container gardens offer in such an area.
Pots, potting soil and drainage gravel await.
Unfortunately, they continued to wait for about another
month, while life (and Halloween) intervened.

"The best laid plans" ~ It was November 23rd before the
potting project went forward. Two 'Emerald Green' Arborvitaes.

Two Japanese hollies (Ilex crenata)...

'Green Luster' - one more heavily berried than the other.

Two burgundy fiberglass pots for the arborvitaes and two
raspberry colored, heavy plastic pots for the hollies.

Good width and substantial depth will accommodate the Arbs
for quite some time! Want a good chuckle about planning ahead?
My first attempt at potting arborvitaes did not end well ~ scroll
down to the end for the explanation!*

First, I place about 4" of pea stone in the bottom for drainage,
after placing clay shards over the large drainage hole.

Choose a well-drained potting soil, rich in organic
matter, so plants will thrive. I favor this 'Bar Harbor Blend'
from Coast of Maine® for most of my potting projects.

Peeking inside the bag, we see a rich, crumbly mix.

A minor "tweak" will be to incorporate additional perlite
to enhance the long-term drainage, especially with such
large pots, placed directly on the pavers.

Probably about 4 parts soil to 1 part perlite.

Blend thoroughly.

Give it the squeeze test ~ it should be friable... that fistful
of soil should readily crumble apart, when you release your grip.

Final "tweak?" A scoop of an my organic fertilizer blend**
comprised of Plant-tone, rock phosphate, greensand and
kelp meal (equal quantities, by volume)

After a liberal sprinkle across the soil,

I blend in this non-burning, organic plant food combo.

Gauge the rootball depth and start backfilling, tamping down
the soil to eliminate any air pockets.

Remove the arborvitae from its nursery can and assess the
depth, adjusting by adding or removing soil, if indicated.

Loosen the roots along the sides and bottom of the root mass,
before setting it back in the pot.

Before backfilling around the rootball, check that the
tree is straight, when viewed from all angles.

Just as with in-ground planting, do not set the tree any deeper
than it was in the nursery pot. Leave enough head space to
accommodate watering. Water thoroughly when finished.

Here we have a properly planted pair of 'Emerald Green'
Arborvitaes... ready to frame the entrance for the
holiday season and all during the bleak winter, beyond.

Now, onto the 'Green Luster' hollies...

No drainage holes, so drilling a number of holes and adding
a 3" layer of drainage stone is the first step. Add a layer of
blended potting soil (same mixture as for the arbs), pressing
out air pockets and check the rootballs on these
container-grown specimens.

A tight rootball, which needs to be addressed, as before.

With fingertips, or a hand cultivator, tease apart the outer
roots, along the sides and base of the root mass. These
loosened roots will soon proceed to become established
in the new potting mix.

As before, set at the proper depth, allowing head space
for watering, backfill and firm the top layer.
Water thoroughly.

All done ~ time to admire the handiwork!

All set for the holidays, as of December 9th.

Potted Dwarf Alberta Spruce in the background.

For the past eight years, I have cultivated a pair of
Dwarf Alberta Spruce in heavy-duty plastic pots... no spider mites
(a commonproblem of these trees), thanks to regular applications
of Neptune's Harvest fish/seaweed blend during the growing season.

Note: Garden centers will not guarantee nursery stock grown in containers, because of the inherent stresses associated, especially during winter. However, for those of us with limited sun and limited tillable land, it is often worth the risk and most definitely presents seasoned gardeners with a new venue and a whole new set of challenges. With proper planting, positioning and maintenance, containerized evergreen gardens can be wildly successful and an eminently satisfying pursuit for the determined gardener. [Ceramic, terracotta and certain porous pots are not meant for winter display ~ plastic, resin, fiberglass, wood, rugged metal, granite and most concrete containers are suitable for year 'round display.]

Let us close with a little gratuitous late November color from
foliage and berries of my Cotoneaster horizontalis 'Purpusilla'.

* Full disclosure ~ Eight years ago, I potted two Dark American Arborvitaes in these attractive urns. File this under "What was I thinking?" The roots eventually grew into the hollow base and their was no way to move them. They could not be saved... we tried everything! Well, at least we saved these double-walled resin urns. Of course, it'll be several years before the roots and stumps decompose enough to be removed. A good case of "Do as I say, not as I do!" Be careful when you choose decorative containers for those trees and evergreens.

One last note... all the above plants are from Corliss Bros. Garden Center & Nursery in Ipswich, MA... and while Corliss has an excellent pot selection, these "winter hardy" pots are just a collection of containers gathered from various other sources... sort of "in the moment"/impulse purchases. However, all my "non-hardy," burgundy ceramic pottery came from Corliss... I'm pretty sure I have at least one sample of everything we carry... nice summer accents with my burgundy shutters ~ currently on display in my kitchen windows!

** Euphemistically referred to as "Deb's Magic Mix" by some of our "Saturday Sessions" students.

Forcing Paperwhite Narcissus and Hyacinth Bulbs for an Indoor Flower Show

2010-12-02T15:02:00.004-05:00

This the third part of our three-part series on forcing bulbs for indoor culture. (Part 1 was "Amaryllis ~ Choosing, Prepping & Planting the 'Queen of Bulbs'.” Part 2 was "Forcing Dutch Bulbs ~ A to Z" ~ Click on "Forcing Spring!" )

Now, let's explore the options when you're about to coax paperwhite narcissus and hyacinth bulbs into producing fragrant blooms to grace the holidays and beyond.

Paperwhite Narcissus ~ bulb selection...

First, choose firm, top-quality, top-size bulbs... most of

which will produce at least two flower clusters, often more.

Choosing a few extra bulbs to store away for later forcing, will expand the length of your indoor flower show. Start a few new bulbs every 2-3 weeks, for a continual display. A word about storage ~ Storing your paperwhites in the fridge, to hold them for later planting, sends up one red flag. Cool, dark storage at about 40º is fine; however, storing your bulbs near ripening fruit in the fridge may actually kill the flower bud, already formed within the bulb or it may emerged deformed from the ethylene gasses produced (pineapple and apples are some of the biggest producers of this gas). The fridge is not an ideal way to delay any bulbs, because of this issue, so at least have them as far away from fruit as possible. I would choose another cool spot for storage. We hold our bulbs back by storing them in a warehouse that stays around 40-45º, and not below freezing. Maybe you have a spot that provides similar temps?

Perfect for your own indoor display or for gifting.

Speaking of gifts, conveniently packaged bulbs like these

make shipping very easy, with everything included.

Let's start by supposing that you're forcing those bulbs

in water. First you need an anchor...

What stone you choose is a matter of personal preference...

any such material merely serves as an anchor to hold the

bulbs in place above the water.

Any fairly shallow, water-tight bowl is appropriate.

Many ceramic vessels have glazed interiors,

making them an elegant, ideal choice.

Even wide, curvaceous glass vases work well. You might

even decide on a hyacinth glass for individual bulbs.

Perhaps you'll raid the kitchen cabinets

and find the perfect bowl!

A reminder: Rinse off any dust or sand

clinging to your chosen medium.

Place the rinsed gravel in your bowl, leaving room for

the bulbs and a little more gravel.

Place the bulbs closely together and top-dress with

a few stones to keep them in place.

Now, add and maintain a water level that barely

reaches the bulb bases.

Here's a bowl planted about two weeks previously...

And, here we see it about a week later... starting to bud

and produce foliage. It usually takes about 4-6 weeks

(about 4 if they've started sprouting) from potting to bloom.

Just be sure to maintain that constant water level.

You may choose to start your paperwhites in

a shallow bulb pan, like that on the right.

The plastic bulb pans, on the left or center,

are also appropriate for forcing paperwhites in soil.

If it's clay you've chosen, soak the pot

until the point of saturation.

Start with about an inch of drainage stone, then add

a layer of well-drained potting soil.

As with those tulip bulbs we potted previously,

have the bulb noses at the soil surface.

Finish filling with soil, water and keep moist in a cool spot... keep them in filtered light, or even under fluorescent lights until leaves and flower buds start to show... move to a brighter spot, but not direct, hot sun, or the blooms will quickly fade. Grow them along after flowers fade, keep watering (adding liquid fertilizer) until the foliage dies back. Stop watering. Put the entire pot away in a dark, cool spot until spring. There often not hardy for this area, but nothing ventured... nothing gained! Come spring, plant them as a cluster in a sunny, well-drained garden in a sheltered area. I have a gardening friend who does this each year and they've naturalized along a sheltered woodland border. If your paperwhite narcissus bulbs survive, they probably won't bloom until the second year. You can try to replant paperwhites forced in water... if they survive outside, they'll skip the first year of bloom (they've been under more stress and normally not much nutrient value has been provided before they die back).

Hyacinths and other bulbs may be packaged like these attractive bowls, complete with stones, to be forced in water. They have usually been "prepared" by pre-cooling.

If you're planning to force hyacinths in water, suspend the bulb over water in a typical hyacinth glass, fill with water to just below the bulb base and maintain that level. They should be kept at about 40º in a dark place, until roots fill the vase and the top is about two inches high. Make a gradual transition from the cool, dark area to a sunny spot in a living room, etc., over the course of 3-4 days. When budded, move back from direct sun to bright, diffused light to extend the flowering period. If you purchased pre-cooled bulbs, they'll take about 10 weeks from planting to bloom. If not pre-cooled, closer to 13 weeks.

Alternatively, place multiple bulbs in a bowl of pebbles, maintaining a water level that does not quite touch the base of bulbs... same principle as forcing paperwhite narcissus bulbs in water... but, follow the temperatures, timing and locations outlined above. To save the bulb for spring planting, allow the foliage to die back, trim it off and store the bulb at 35-40º in sand until spring and plant outdoors (adding bulb food)... it will be another year (sometimes 2) before it blooms (forced bulbs cannot be re-forced), but may throw up a little foliage, which is then allowed to die back.

If forcing hyacinths [tulips, daffodils and most minor bulbs are forced in this same manner] in soil, choose a shallow bulb pan. Add a layer of drainage stone and a layer of well-drained potting soil. Place the bulbs atop the soil.. they can actually touch, for a full display. Finish adding soil, allowing space to water. The bulb noses will be at, or just below, the soil surface. They need a dark spot with temps of 35-40º. Keep them lightly moist. A bulkhead or unheated garage may meet these requirements. It takes about 10-12 weeks for the rooting period. By then, you'll probably notice sprouts showing. Over the course of several days, move them to a sunny window and when buds begin to show, move them out of direct sun to prolong flowering. After blooms fade, water and feed until the foliage dies back and store away in a shed or garage until spring... plant outdoors in early spring. They will probably bloom the next year, since you've fed them after the bloom period. Like bulbs forced in water, they cannot be forced a second year.

Have fun creating your indoor flower show!

Text/Photos: © Deb Lambert 2010

Giving Thanks and Fall Reflections

2010-11-25T06:09:00.000-05:00

Happy Thanksgiving!

May you rejoice in the warmth of home and hearth on this November day and join me in a celebration of this glorious season, as I share a few glimpses of our New England autumn and look ahead to season to come ~ you know - winter!

The pink, shaggy blooms of an old, reliably perennial
chrysanthemum grace a late October morning.

A closer look reveals the spoon petals of this
unusual specimen ~ its name long forgotten.

"Red sky in the morning"...

Which has turned pink by the time you
venture out, camera in hand.

Perfect weather for leaf raking!

And the perfect supervisor!

Fabulous fungi!

Don't you love the fall fungi?

How beautiful!

All dressed up for fall.

Fruits of the 'Tina' flowering crab

Last view of the fountain, prior to draining and
wrapping for winter... our favorite bird spa!

'Mt. Airy' Fothergilla

My favorite fall banner... like a botanical print.

Shhh! This a burning bush on the invasive list in MA,
but grandfathered in, since it's been growing there
for about 30 years.

Shhh! These are not real (they're ceramic) curcurbits...

But, these are! All the front boxes are thusly decorated.

Cotoneaster apiculata dressed in autumn burgundy

Garden at night... this was taken on that extremely
warm Halloween evening, between handing out
goodies to the trick or treaters...
weeping 'Snow Fountains' cherry & Eupatorium

The single bud of a pink 'Knockout' rose

Ivy Geranium in the raised bed

Pink 'Knockout' rose offering November color

Gratuitous cat photo - half of the indoor cat
population (Kipper & Stanley) stands guard
over newly arrived kitty litter jugs.

A November day meant to be enjoyed to its fullest!

Lucy's stroller is ever so handy for hauling home
our ill-gotten booty...
white pine cones for window box decorations.

Our favorite park!

'Mt. Airy' Fothergilla

Wilted cosmos blossom, actually covered with frozen droplets.

Scaevola - lightly frosted

Irish moss, touched by hoarfrost

This was 11/18, but the ivy geraniums bloom on...
seemingly oblivious to several frosty nights.

Frost on the Honda... not on the pumpkin (yet!)

Ice on the birdbath

Is it rime ice or hoarfrost?

November ice on Lily Pond

It's WHAT???

Can these be far behind?

All too soon, we'll be imprisoned behind bars of ice!

So, let's rejoice in the changing seasons...

And anticipate the picturesque season to come!

From our house to yours...

A wonderful Thanksgiving!

Forcing Spring!

2010-11-17T12:51:00.000-05:00

"Forcing Spring!"

Spring starts right now...

if you had the foresight to purchase a few extra Dutch

bulbs for that time-honored tradition of "forcing."

Sadly, at this point, we're out of bulbs.

Those of you who attended our September bulb

workshop, have your spring display all planted ~ right?

From storing summer bulbs, to planting bulb gardens

and forcing bulbs for indoor flower display, we

covered the essential steps to enjoying your own

spring flower show!

So, how do we succeed in producing

vibrant, potted blooms like these?

First, we choose the right pot... the bulb pan, on the right.

(To the far left we see a "standard" pot,

then an "azalea" pot in the center.)

If you select a clay pot,

Soaking it in tepid water for 20-30 minutes is the first step.

Perhaps you've chosen a less expensive,

sturdy plastic bulb pan...

First step is placing a layer of gravel

across the bottom for drainage...

About 1/2" to 3/4" is adequate.

Choose a well-drained, highly-organic potting soil

and place about 1" of soil above the drainage stones.

I usually add about a tablespoon of rock phosphate

or Bulb-tone® to the potting soil, to encourage strong roots.

When placing bulbs in the bulb pan, it's perfectly

fine to place them "cheek by jowl" for a lush display.

When planting tulips, there's one very important note ~

What do you notice about this bulb? That's right -

one side is rounded (on the left) and one side is flat.

Place the flat sides toward the outside of the pot.

Why? Because the foliage emerges from the flat sides

and planting your tulips in this manner, ensures a

symmetrical appearance... the leaves, surrounding the

blooms, actually add support to the tulip stems.

Finish backfilling with soil, firm out any air pockets

with your fingertips and leave enough space for

successive waterings. By following the remainder

of our tips, your mixed pot of tulips should look like

this, come spring...

Now, here's the rest of the story...

After a through watering, the potted bulbs are placed in

an area that stays about 35-40º for 10-12 weeks. This is

the rooting period and they need to be planted for this process

to succeed - you cannot place loose bulbs in such an area

(except those paperwhite, hyacinth or amaryllis bulbs that

you're holding for later forcing). As we mentioned in last week's

newsletter, beware the refrigerator as a bulb storage area -

for potted or loose bulbs... ethylene gas from ripening fruit

(especially apples and pineapples) can kill or deform the

flower buds already formed within those dormant bulbs.

By replicating the cold rooting period that occurs

outdoors, then introducing our potted bulbs to a

warm, sunny spot in our homes, we should be

enjoying a glorious display like that above.

Keep the bulbs moderately moist and dark during the

rooting-in period.

A bulkhead, breezeway or outer cellar room is often

an ideal spot. If such an area is closer to freezing,

then set the pots in sand, within a covered styrofoam

cooler, which moderates the extreme cold - just be

careful not to overwater, or the bulbs will rot before

they root.

Daffodils, like this fine example of 'Mount Hood',

perform very well when forced for indoor display.

Small-cupped narcissus, fancy bi-colors and rock

garden narcissus are all suitable candidates

for forcing.

There are many tulip varieties ideal for forcing...

mostly the shorter-stemmed early and mid-season

types... designations are right on the

display box, a useful note at time of selection.

Why can't I plant bulbs directly into window boxes or

other year 'round planters?

The soil base in window boxes and many planters

is just too shallow and narrow to successfully

root bulbs - too much stress from the freeze/thaw cycle.

Minor bulbs, like these fabulous white crocus,

are great for forcing... think in terms of a series

of 4 to 5" pots. Provide them with the outlined

care, bring them up in March and set these pots

within your window boxes and enjoy an

instant outdoor flower show, just beyond

your windowpane.

'Dutch Master' a favorite in the garden ~ a favorite

on the windowsill!

Bi-color tulips offer that extra splash!

Oh, the anticipation of that heady fragrance...

As those potted hyacinths come into bloom.

The sunny faces of spring... they'll put an end to those

late winter blues, as you welcome spring to your windowsill!

Remember to pull your blooming bulbs into less sun, or just

bright, diffused light. You'll extend the flowering time.

See? Imagine the rejoicing at the promise of a

new growing season! Wait ~ what? Really?

It's a silk imposter?

Yes! As is this cute little pot of grape hyacinths!

See? There's a solution for everyone - even those

that don't have the time, inclination, rooting area or

bulbs, can enjoy a spring flower show.

Whether celebrating Easter or just getting a head start on

spring, you can enjoy potted specimens for years to

come in the garden. After flowers fade, return them to a

sunny window, keep watering and provide a mild weekly

application of liquid fertilizer. Do this until the foliage dies

back and store away in that cool spot, until you can plant.

Plant them as clump, in a well-drained, sunny spot and mix

in a little Bulb-tone® or rock phosphate. If any foliage

remains intact at planting time, leave it attached and allow

foliage to die back naturally, returning energy to the bulbs.

These forced bulbs may or may not bloom the following

spring, but will flower their second season in the garden.

Nothing ventured, nothing gained?

Potted bulbs, in bud and bloom, are widely available each spring, alongside the cheerful pansy faces that announce spring's arrival. Maybe this is the year you start your own spring flower show. It's a great project and one that will delight children and adults, alike... it's all about anticipation! Got a bag of bulbs on that potting bench that you forgot to plant? Get busy!

And the Good News?

2010-10-28T11:26:00.003-04:00

“We’re on YouTube?”

Yes, we’re moving with the times! A collaboration between Corliss Bros. and Coast of Maine has resulted in the production of a video on proper mulching techniques and the dangers of over-mulching, creating the mulch volcanoes so prevalent (and detrimental) in today’s landscapes. Featuring Coast of Maine’s Dark Bark Mulch® and yours truly, the video is available for viewing. Just click on...

http://www.youtube.com/cameronbonsey#p/a/u/0/CaC9rgaWebY

I wish to thank the folks at Coast of Maine for helping us bring to the fore this important issue, for making the video production almost effortless and, of course,
for their naturally aged Dark Bark Mulch®

A Related Item of Interest… In 2008 I posted an article (rant?) about this topic on ‘GardenAuthor' ~ this provides the rest of the mulch story...

“Mulch Mounds, Post-Mortems and a Soapbox”

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

"And the Good News?"

Where mulch volcanoes or mulch mounds are concerned,

there is no good news... only bad news!

Professional and home gardeners ~ please do not practice the over-mulching so common these days in public places, as well as home landscapes. The suffocating, thick (sometimes 1-2 foot) layer of bark mulch pressed up against the trunks of trees precludes essential oxygen... necessary for surface roots. It spells slow death for the tree, girdling the bark over time, while under the cover of this dark and wet layer, opportune insects and disease will wreak further havoc.

Well, they were nothing if not consistent in their treatment

of this shade tree planting, bordering a shopping center.

Each tree has 18-24" of bark mulch heaped up around the trunk!

In another nearby island planting, this poor

purpleleaf plum shows the ill effects of over-mulching.

Rather than eliminate the cause of dieback,

they just saw away, one limb at a time.

More drastic pruning, to keep up with the dieback!

P.J.M. Rhododendron mulched at least one foot deep.

How long can it survive? Take a look at its neighbor...

'Nuff said?

Horribly unhappy spreading junipers, dying back bit by bit,

beneath this 12-18" layer.

At a private residence, we find another mulch volcano,

this time heaped up around a beautiful clump birch...

and not by the homeowner!

Could this finally be a bad news/good news scenario?

Might this be an over-mulching story with a happy ending?

Find out by watching this YouTube video, produced by the folks at Coast of Maine products

http://www.youtube.com/cameronbonsey#p/a/u/0/CaC9rgaWebY

Enjoy the other educational videos, while you're there!

PLEASE NOTE: If you are reading this article on a website or blog, other than my own, it has been posted there without my knowledge or permission! I'd be grateful for an emailed "heads-up" if you notice such thievery!

Help stop theft and plagiarism of the intellectual property displayed within my many blogs, the blogs I maintain for Corliss Bros., and the content of my website. The "feed scrapers" that appropriate my material, insert advertising into my text and display my entire articles (complete with photos) have already stolen unknown quantities of my copyrighted works. Sadly, other garden writers/bloggers are experiencing similar theft, so we must all remain vigilant, assisting each other in this effort. We'd all be grateful for your vigilance, as well. Thank you ~ Deb Lambert, 'GardenAuthor'

Gigantic Gourds and Halloween Shenanigans...

2010-10-24T06:34:00.000-04:00

Not here ~ over at 'GardenPup'!

Lucy-Maude has just posted the obligatory pumpkin pics, along with her thoughts about her recent photo op and humans behind cameras, in general. This 950-pound pumpkin, grown by Armand Michaud (third place winner in the Topsfield Fair Giant Pumpkin Weigh-Off with another curcurbit) of Ipswich, was featured in recent issues of 'GardenAuthor@CorlissClips' ~ a free emailed garden newsletter. It, along with the six-foot green gourd, were perfect props for Lucy's Halloween post.....

~ "Pumpkins and Spiders... Oh, My!" ~

Have fun over at Lucy's blog!

Garden Grasses of Autumn

2010-10-06T05:00:00.001-04:00

Miscanthus (maiden grass) and Pennisetum (fountain grass)

add grace, fullness and beauty to this autumn scenario

in a rich, carefree autumnal display.

Unfurling inflorescences of variegated Japanese silver grass,

Miscanthus sinensis 'Variegatus'

Dwarf Blue Fescue... perfect for edging,

mass planting and rock gardens.

Variegated Japanese Silver Grass,

Miscanthus sinensis 'Variegatus'

Miscanthus sinensis 'Gracillimus'

Maiden Grass

Miscanthus sinensis 'Strictus'

Porcupine Grass

More unfurling!

Miscanthus sinensis 'Gold Bar'

Once again, New England emerges, relatively unscathed, from the crackling heat of summer. Cool nights and the crickets' final choruses of the season, gently transition us to the onset of autumn. Goldfinches whistle with joy at maturing sunflowers and crisp air rustles the stiff blades of ornamental grasses. The sights, sounds and scents of autumn are not to be missed.

For about the last twenty years, the cultivation of ornamental grasses has seen a resurgence in American gardens, especially here, in the Northeast. Ranging in height from the 4-6" dwarf blue fescue to the 12' Erianthus*, there truly is a grass for every situation. Many of the larger-scale ornamental grasses are "late bloomers," so to speak. All season, they've been spreading out, attaining mature height and developing each inflorescence. Some, like Calamagrostis (feather reed grass), produce plumes early in the season. Their elongated seed-heads have now turned brown, extending just above the 3-4' foliage.

It should be mentioned in passing, that few plants approach the scale and texture of these grasses. With long, graceful, curving blades and showy seed-heads waving in the breeze, the larger-scale grasses, in general and the Miscanthus family, in particular, offer year 'round interest. Since many of the larger, late-blooming grasses are sturdy and vigorous, they are able to withstand the rigors of a New England winter (check your own USDA hardiness zone - my Zone 5 gardens support all but the most tender specimens). They adorn the summer garden with long, graceful foliage, the fall garden with plumes and in the winter garden they stand proud and upright, like so many dried arrangements.

Grasses also bring the element of sound to the landscape. The rather substantial foliage of the larger grasses will rustle in the slightest breeze. Position maiden grass (Miscanthus sinensis 'Gracillimus') near a bedroom window and enjoy the cooling, tranquil sound of wind-tousled foliage. Choose a variegated variety and enjoy the brightening effect of silver, white or cream striping. M. 'Cabaret' comes to mind, its wide blades adorned with longitudinal bands of cream. This moisture-loving grass is an ideal backdrop for a pedestal birdbath, under-planted with moisture-tolerant perennials.

Fountain grass, or Pennisetum, is a lovely, graceful specimen for the perennial border. Each circular clump of arching blades is topped by showy "fox-tail" plumes. At 3-4 feet, fountain grass is a substantial garden subject, ideal for large plantings. Combine it with equally substantial perennials, such as Rudbeckia (black-eyed Susan), Echinacea (coneflower), fall asters, hybrid goldenrod (Solidago), Boltonia (Bolton's aster), silver-leaved Artemisia 'Silver King', Helenium (Helen's flower) and Eupatorium (Joe Pye weed). These are some of the great summer/ fall combinations you might enjoy. There are now many diminutive Pennisetum hybrids, like 'Little Bunny', just the scale for smaller beds and rock gardens.

Another "star" of my garden is the clump of sea oats (Chasmanthium latifolia) perched at the top of a slope, just behind my Miscanthus 'Cabaret.' Reaching a height of 3-4 feet, its tough stems sprout from a base of short, deep green blades. These wiry stems bear a multitude of dangling, oat-like seed-heads, gradually turning brown in the waning days of autumn. The foliage rustles in the wind, while the seed-heads dance in the slightest breeze, reminiscent of maturing grains just before a harvest. This is another tough plant, adding winter interest, as well.

The true beauty of ornamental grasses lies in their versatility... stop erosion on a slope with the two-foot, steel-blue Elymus arenarius (blue wild rye)... the many Carex (sedge) hybrids are ideal for a range of situations - sun, shade, moisture, as groundcovers and borders, with variegated or evergreen foliage... for summer plumes, try the semi-evergreen tufted hair grass (Deschampsia)... the stunning blue of Festuca cinerea 'Meerblau' is great for edging or massing, at only 6-10 inches tall. A long, solid row of Miscanthus or Erianthus (ravenna grass)* can provide privacy for most of the season, offering a suitable backdrop for small flowering shrubs, roses, perennials or annuals.

Whether creating a mass display or interspersing a clump or two as focal points, you'll find that ornamental grasses are equally at home in the formal or informal landscape. Harvest a few plumes and leaf blades to enliven fresh or dried arrangements. Spike the dangling seed-heads and foliage of sea oats into an old grapevine wreath, tuck in a few strawflowers and you're an instant floral designer! Allow these grasses of autumn into your gardens and enjoy all the drama they'll provide.

Note: This late in the season, selections are limited, so you may want to do a little armchair gardening this winter and explore the many options available and the merits of adding grasses to your home landscape. *Erianthus (ravenna grass) has not been widely available of late, but the larger maiden grass specimens are a better scale for most gardens.

©Deb Lambert 2010 / Photos ©S.R. Calef 2007

Praying Mantis Portfolio

2010-09-30T11:48:00.000-04:00

Early morning at the garden center...

just one of the recent hatchlings.

These beneficial insects prey on other insects....

The good, the bad and the ugly... and even their own kind,

if there is not another food source when they hatch.

I'm not sure they're up to dispatching a 14-pound dog

(hopefully not!).

Definitely commands attention!

Full length view.

Sizable!

And ever so curious!

All photos were taken in the bedding plant department

of Corliss Bros. Garden Center & Nursery

31 Essex Road (Rte. 133)

Ipswich, MA

Seems to me that the presence of these and other

beneficials, attests to the responsible

maintenance practiced by all the staff!

AUTUMN TREE PROFILES ~ Introducing Field Reporter, Loretta...

2010-09-30T06:15:00.000-04:00

Over the next several posts, we'll be discovering the autumnal beauty of New England, as we stroll through Corliss Bros. Garden Center & Nursery... trees and shrubs - some newer hybrids, some old favorites - all in full fall regalia. Perhaps you've considered including one of these specimens in your own landscape. In that case, viewing them through the eyes of October will give you a whole new perspective.

(FYI: Loretta is the creation of talented designer and
Corliss Bros. Plant Sales Team member, Jackie Bennett.
The sculpture by her side is entitled, "Blackbirds' Revenge.")

Taking her ease on a garden bench, the newest
member of 'Team GardenAuthor' is field reporter
Loretta, the undeniable 'Queen of October,'
presenting us with the pleasures of fall gardens.

From her giant pumpkins,

to her lavish October displays...

From the first blush of a dogwood leaf,

to visions of geese, soaring above the garden center,
Loretta offers us a view of spectacular woody
ornamentals and a brief profile of each.

Prunus serrulata 'Kwanzan'
Kwanzan Japanese Cherry

The Kwanzan Cherry matures at 25'H x 15-20'W. Large, double pink flowers. Extremely reliable bloomer from year to year. Upright vase shape, but wider and more spreading form with age. Such a strong, vigorous specimen, that it is often used as a street tree. Disease-free, durable foliage that ranges from yellow-orange to muted red come fall. Requires full sun and well-drained soil.

Ginkgo biloba 'Autumn Gold'
Autumn Gold Maidenhair Tree

This 'Autumn Gold' Ginkgo has wonderful fan-shaped foliage, turning to a strong golden hue in fall. In its youth, Ginkgo has an open branching habit. With maturity, it becomes dense and broad, with a conical canopy. This slow grower is free of pest and disease problems, cold hardy and seashore tolerant. Mature size: 50-60'H x 30-40'W.

Liquidambar styraciflua
American Sweetgum

American Sweetgum matures at 50'H x 30'W. The fall brilliance of this star-shaped foliage is only complemented by corky wings on the twigs and unusual, bur-like fruits. This fast grower requires moist soil, full sun and an area protected from the wind. Sweetgum is native to the southeastern United States. Many birds and small wildlife species enjoy the seeds and fruit.

Considered invasive, this non-native burning bush (Euonymus alatus compacta) is no longer available in Massachusetts nurseries, but it certainly has a major impact on the autumn landscape. Cardinals are among the songbirds that relish its fruit.

Chinese lanterns and money plant are sought in the fall for autumn arrangements. But Loretta informs us that these are of the everlasting, faux variety.

Are we indoors or out? Graceful, silk foxtail grasses consort with faux bittersweet inside a warm, sunny window. Great pretenders that make interior decorating a snap! Recommended by our own 'Queen of October.'

"Well, this is your Field Reporter, signing off.
Tune in next time, and we'll continue exploring
my autumnal garden center delights.
I'm Loretta and that's my October!"

Where does a 950-Pound Pumpkin Sit?

2010-09-23T13:43:00.007-04:00

Where does a 950-pound pumpkin sit?

Anywhere it wants!

Fortunately, at the moment, it's on display at
Corliss Bros. Garden Center & Nursery
31 Essex Road in Ipswich, MA

Locally renowned for growing giant pumpkins,
Armand Michaud of Ipswich loaned us this beauty
for display... what a conversation piece!
Armand has accumulated quite a history in his pursuit
of the biggest pumpkin. In 2005, his 1,058-pound giant
was on display at Marini's Farm in Ipswich.

In 2008, when many farmers had crop failures due to
excessive rains, Armand was among other giant pumpkin
growers who experienced devastating problems.
The full story from October 10, 2008 as presented
on NPR, began with Armand's experience...
Armand was tending his pumpkin patch when he
heard something eerie. "I heard like a pfffff and I looked
around, and I thought 'What the heck is that?' Then he
saw a 2-foot crack in one of his giant pumpkins.
"I could put my arm right up in it, he says. Michaud had
just witnessed a bizarre phenomenon plaguing
New England - exploding giant pumpkins.

"THE END?"

Well, not quite! Word is, that Armand Michaud is in
contention for this year's winning pumpkin at
Topsfield Fair.* We will be following the weigh-in
with special interest this year ~ fingers crossed!
Best of luck, Armand! And congratulations for your
attention to detail, patience and dedication in striving
to grow the largest pumpkin.

Topsfield Fair runs from October 1st through October 11th.

*This year, the New England Giant Pumpkin Weigh-Off takes place on Tuesday, October 5th, from 4:00-10:00 PM.

For recent history about Topsfield Fair's New England Giant Pumpkin Weigh-Off, which began in 1984, click on this link.

LATE SUMMER SERENDIPITY TOUR

2010-09-02T17:10:00.000-04:00

Labor Day weekend - everyone's kicking back,
even the earwigs. This fella's floating on a nice comfy
water lettuce in my patio water garden. Well, at least
someone has time to enjoy it... just don't
appreciate the holes I've been finding.

Onto something a great deal more pleasant, like
this 'Aphrodite' Rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus)

Suddenly, I want to sing, "Raindrops on roses."

My favorite Rudbeckia triloba and dwarf Hinoki Cypress

The shrubby, non-climbing Clematis, Clematis heracleifolia.

White Cosmos 'Sensation' mix

All clean and ready to go!

Northern Sea Oats, Chasmanthium latifolium

Great Blue Lobelia, Lobelia siphilitica

Hosta lancifolia

Shady Oasis, before the fountain is turned on for the day.

Pristine!

Butterfly Bush

Sweet Potato Vine

Wentworth American Cranberry Bush
Viburnum trilobum 'Wentworthi'

Comos 'Sensation' mix...
goldfinches are still dining on the dried seed heads.

Ilex meserveae 'Blue Princess' Holly

Cool off!

'Grandpa Ott' Morning Glory

'Grandpa Ott' availing himself of the
Mandevilla's climbing structure.

'Crimson Parasol' Mandevilla... cannot seem to capture
the exact rich hue, but this will do for now!

Hibiscus syriacus 'Red Heart' - Rose of Sharon

One of the many pollinators that visit my
Hydrangea paniculata 'Tardiva'

Cotoneaster apiculata, Cranberry Cotoneaster...
all berried up ~ bumper crop!

Campsis radicans 'Flava' ~ Yellow Trumpet Vine
resting atop the bluish foliage of a perennial pink.

Wentworth Viburnum and, yes, on the right
we see the ever-invasive woodbine
insinuating itself into the thick of things!

Great sound on a hot late summer day,
as water splashes over the water hyacinth
and water lettuce plants.

With flowers still to come on this rose mallow,
'Kopper King' provides a burgundy note in this raised bed.

The bright yellow, double blooms of this Kerria
are not as abundant as the spring series,
but are welcome, all the same!

This 'Grandpa Ott' vine has produced some of the
biggest morning glory foliage I've ever seen...
much bigger than my entire hand!

Didn't have time to hang that basket? No problem -
'Grandpa Ott' is on the job...
trying his best to cover this shepherd's crook.

'Pinky Winky' - a panicle Hydrangea.

A bubbling orb.

Campsis radicans, Trumpet Vine... finally started blooming
in mid-July, after a 7-year wait. It hasn't stopped, yet!

Another shot of the new kid on the block!

Welcome to the outdoor office space of GardenAuthor.
Enjoy the succulent collection, play some checkers...
have a slice of pie!

Save a slice for us, would you?

'GardenPup' & 'GardenAuthor' are headed inside.
At 95º outside, we'll be inside working on our memoirs,
or maybe that garden book.

Hope you enjoyed your self-guided tour and that you
found some late summer beauty, a touch of whimsey
and a good deal of serendipity... something to lighten
your mood on this holiday weekend,
as we bid summer
an unofficial
goodbye.

The Genus Hibiscus

2010-08-24T08:28:00.002-04:00

Hibiscus syriacus, or Rose-of-Sharon (sometimes, Shrub Althea)
is prized for its long blooming season, lasting from July into September.

Flowers are single, double or semi-double and colors range
from deep red, to pink, lavender, blue and white.

'Aphrodite' is a single, rosy-pink that graces my gardens, as well.
Naturally growing about ten feet high, by eight feet wide,
Rose-of-Sharon is ideal as a small, ornamental tree.
It is also at home in the large, mixed shrub border.
Easily pruned, it is commonly maintained at a smaller size,
even lending itself to a hedge formation.

There are several blue or lavender-blue varieties, including 'Bluebird',
'Blue Satin' and 'Coelestis'. I'm sure if this isn't 'Bluebird',
I will hear from those "in the know." In which case,
I will print a correction - fastidious garden journalist that I am.

If you guessed that this flashy member of the genus Hibiscus
is a tropical "cousin," you're right! Hibiscus Rosa-sinensis,
known as Hawaiian or Chinese Hibiscus, is grown as a shrub
or small tree in tropical climes. Modern hybridizing explains
the improved color and smaller sizes currently available.
These are ideal for indoor/outdoor pot culture... often grown on
patios, porches and balconies during the summer and brought back
inside to greenhouses, plant rooms and bay windows for the winter season.
With proper care, these tender specimens will bloom year 'round.
Look for them in a rainbow of colors, from riotous to subdued.

Malvaceae is the family to which all Hibiscus belong and includes the mallows as well. From the light pink, 2" blooms of the Hollyhock Mallow (Malva alcea), to the dinner plate sized single flowers of Hibiscus moscheutos (sometimes H. palustris) or Hibiscus coccineus, there is much to celebrate with the hybridized versions of swamp rose mallow. Red, pink and white predominate, with many blooms sporting deeper throat coloration.

H. Moscheutos has large, toothed, heart-shaped foliage, while the leaves of H. coccinea sport narrow, pointed lobes. In both species, heights of 4-8 feet are common, making these outstanding, back-of-the-border perennials with a nice long summer blooming season. If space permits, locate several in the front yard, and reap the compliments!

Now, if Malva alcea (Hollyhock Mallow, above) seemed somehow familiar, you may have been thinking of the old-fashioned garden Hollyhock. While not in the Hibiscus genus, it is in the Malvaceae family and is properly referred to as Alcea rosea.

While Grandma's hollyhocks may have reached 12 feet tall, newer hybrids are usually from 3-8 feet high. You'll find single, double and frilled blossoms, available in colors ranging from almost black and deep red to pink, salmon, yellow and white. Leave these biennials (each plant lives for two years, flowering and producing seed the second year) undisturbed, for continuous blooming, year after year.

While you're hiking the New England fields and woodlands, you may come across other members of this Malvaceae family. One particular creeping specimen is known as one of the Cheeses, or common mallow. Malva neglecta has tiny rose-lavender or white flowers, with rounded leaves. At one point, I became so enamored of this little garden volunteer, I welcomed it in, transplanting one from a waste area - unfortunately, it proceeded to die. (What green thumb?) Why "cheeses?" They're named for the flat, round fruits they produce.

Today seemed a fine time to revisit the whole botanical Latin issue, especially with such a far-flung family as Malvaceae. For more on this topic, visit the "Pelargoniums and Botanical History" posting at Shutterbug on Knights Pond.

©Deb Lambert 2010